hard start problem fix?

GreenDiesel said:

yes, that works for bleeding. For the return lines, go get yourself some 1/4" fuel line and a pack of #111 o-rings and give your return system an overhaul.

Be careful removing and installing the plastic injector caps so you dont break them.

Lube the o-rings before installation and replace the squeeze clips with small hose clamps for the return lines.

Also, how long does your WTS light stay on, 20+ seconds is normal for a cold start. If your glow time is less than that, you may have one or more bad glow plugs

Click to expand...

Lol this seems like the more cost effective way to go
How cold is cold? sometimes it'll stay on for long and when its warmer it'll be on for a few seconds. I hope I dont already have a bad plug I just did them two weeks ago

Well I live in Texas, so cold here is relative lol. In Canada, two glow cycles may be what you need, just seems like you might run the risk of overheating them that way.

1st start of the day at 30-40* or so usually glows for 15-20 seconds then cranks up with a small white puff. After the first start of the day, glow times will depend on how long its been sitting and the outside temp.

If you just did your plugs, I might look into other factors for starting, such as batteries, starter, and all the wiring and connections. Are your terminals corroded

Does it turn over fast? or is it sluggish sometimes

Also, I hate to ask, but are your fuel tanks full? A broken pickup in a 1/4 full tank could potentially let air in overnight

Seems like the cheaper option lol

That depends on how cold it is if its really cold strays on for prob 20 sec (I've never actually counted) and if its warm outside our the truck its warm itll be a couple of seconds, I hope its not the plugs just replaced them two weeks ago.......I did however notice the wts light staying on longer after theplug change

If I did go that route would I have to bend the lines and what would I use to cut them so both ends remain true?

GreenDiesel said:

Well I live in Texas, so cold here is relative lol. In Canada, two glow cycles may be what you need, just seems like you might run the risk of overheating them that way.

1st start of the day at 30-40* or so usually glows for 15-20 seconds then cranks up with a small white puff. After the first start of the day, glow times will depend on how long its been sitting and the outside temp.

If you just did your plugs, I might look into other factors for starting, such as batteries, starter, and all the wiring and connections. Are your terminals corroded

Does it turn over fast? or is it sluggish sometimes

Also, I hate to ask, but are your fuel tanks full? A broken pickup in a 1/4 full tank could potentially let air in overnight

Click to expand...

Hmm Texas eh, so I guess your cold is my summer haha

My rear tank is full I don't let it go under 1/4 and my front needs to be cleaned (summer job)

Sometimes it is very sluggish one day I had to put the batteries on chargers because it wouldn't start, and in the morning It started almost instantly (put a huge smile on my face) so that leads me to think battery our alternator?....in the near future I am doing a gr starter and group 31s

to replace return lines, obtain about 5' of 1/4"ID rubber fuel line. Should be less than $1 a linear foot.

Remove the squeeze clamps on the old hose between the injector caps, and pull the length of hose off of the caps.

I find that twisting them a bit with some needle-nose pliers goes a long ways in breaking the hose loose from the barb on the cap.

When you have the hose off, just lay along side your new hose and cut to the same length as the old one using a razor knife, or scissors.

replace all the o-rings under the plastic caps with #111 o-rings, rubber is fine, buy bulk you will need about 20 of em.

Remove steel fuel line nut and bend hard line out of the way to allow you to pop the plastic cap off(carefully)

You may need to remove or loosen the IP line clamps to allow enough movement in the hard line to remove the cap.

remove old o-rings on the top of each injector.

replace with new orings, lubricate them and install the top one first, then roll on the bottom one.

replace injector return cap by pushing down till you hear a click. You may find that you cut an o-ring upon install and may have to do this step twice on some imjectors

Install your new, cut to fit fuel line in between the caps and use your new hose clamps to secure them

replace the hose from your fuel filter the IP and the return line going to the filter head

Start her up and check for leaks

You should now have a leak free fuel return system.

Other things to look for are leaking fuel heater plugs, bad lift pump, and mayeb fuel selector valve?

Its pretty obvious when your ALT goes out, voltmeter falls on its face, and headlights get really Dim

Bad batteries could be suspect, especially if they are more than 3 years old

Thank you! Now that should be a stickied diy

I thought the return lines are metal though?, yea its prob batteries then and maybe the connectors they are looking pretty crusty, would I chen them with write brush?

The Injection Pump supply lines are metal, those are the ones you have to gently push out of the way to pull the cap off. Be careful not to bend or break them.

The return lines are the rubber ones going in between each injector.

Yes I would pour some Coke on the terminals and wire brush the crap out of em. Maybe even remove the connections and get the posts themselves. Use dielectric grease on the terminals to resist corrosion and increase conductivity

O so the return lines are short then, by in between you mean in the injectors or from injector to injector?
This is starting to seem not so bad haha

they go from injector cap to injector cap

Its a really easy job, as others have mentioned it should take about 2 hours.

#7&8 are the hardest as you are reaching under the turbo to get to them, other than that its easy.

Remove the air box to get easy access, I always cover my turbo inlet with a plastic bag and a rubber band in case something wants to fly in there while your working.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AS3x...xt=C3393422UDOEgsToPDskK8rJyDRtXbueIMpqma4A5n

he doesnt really show the orings tho....should I get the T's?....i think this is one of those time that im actually glad mine is NA

And im gueesing it doesnt leak fuel b/c our fuel system isnt constantly pressurized?

This morning I cycled the plugs twice and it started in about 5 seconds

Phoned a local diesel shop they said theyd check timing for 50$ and gp wiring harness, so I booked an appointment on thurs at one, is that a fair price?
I noticed that when I'm cranking and fathering the throttle out starts up alit faster then if I just crank......could this mean injectors?

Feathering the throttle is fairly normal operation on cold starts AFAIK. and 50 bucks sounds good for them to check timing and harness, but I would clarify as to which method they are using for timing. Ask if they will use pulse or luminosity, and if they cant answer that I would re consider.

Ok cool, so I went to international today and got rotella synthetic ...is rotwlla ok with or engines....and then I grabbed a filter to its a long fleet guard one .....I don't know the part number by heart but ill edit this post once I get a chance. Another thing I noticed today was the rad cap is leaking, I saw some red coolant on the snorkel and battery, and rad ofcourse. They didn't have any 13 lb caps but they did have a 14 would that work ore should I just get a 13 from napa our something? And the dca4 he had was just a tiny little bottle and he gave me long life coolant (red) that has additives in it, o and its already pre mixed 50/50, will this be ok? (ill get name later tonight)

Edit: filter is fleet guard lf 3630