wmo = blue smoke ?

I have a 1998 12v 2500 4x4 ,i've been running wmo for a couple months.I've been experimenting with ratios ,it seems to work well 70/30 but its putting out a bit more smoke than i care to run on ,anyone have any tips for me? By the way this motor loves black gold!thanks steve

First of Cummins MAX allowance of WMO/WEO is 5% by volume (1.75 Gallons for 35 gallon tank). Even Cummins Centinel burn less that 5% volume of WMO/WEO.

Not to mention the lubricity of the WMO/WEO is low so it might cause wear to you fuel system components...



#13 is the WEO which doesn't meet or exceed either standard of fuel lubricity. It a failed lubricant... Remember that 2nd Gen's VP44 was design for fuel that where in the range of 350-460 HFRR...

#7 2 Cycle Oil passes minimum GOV'T standards (@ 200:1 ratio) and will lubricate your fuel system satisfactory...

WEO/WMO has a high amount of ASH content in engine oil. So now what is ash??? Measures inorganic residues - The small amount of non-combustible metallic material found in almost all petroleum products is commonly called ash. Ash content should not exceed 0.02 mass percent. Sorry to say but WEO/WMO is very high in ash content because of all the wear metals that left behind in it.

Now there is another problem is the carbon residue. Measures residue in fuel - can influence combustion. The tendency of a diesel fuel to form carbon deposits in an engine can be estimated by various tests to determine the carbon residue after 90% of the fuel has been evaporated .

I had a post on another forum... I found a pic from a waste engine oil heater and the burner was all buggered up with this white deposit. It had to be scraped off with a putty knife. This deposits was ASH and it occurred in less than 24 hour of running WEO/WMO...Now remember these white deposits will grow in the combustion chamber...

This is the main reason I suggest if your going to run WEO/WMO it has to be less that 5% by volume.

But this is also why I ONLY use ASHLESS 2 CYCLE OIL...

Mopar1973Man said:

First of Cummins MAX allowance of WMO/WEO is 5% by volume (1.75 Gallons for 35 gallon tank). Even Cummins Centinel burn less that 5% volume of WMO/WEO.

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Cummins also does not recomend fuel plates, bigger turbos, nitrous, 4gsk, twin turbos, etc.

Same kinda negativity about WVO 4-5 years ago.

I run upto 90% WMO in the warm weather & 50% the rest of the time, this is a bit higher than my old IDI would start on but once she started she'd run on 100% WMO. I ran those blends for over 40,000 miles with very few fuel related problems.

explain please

Mopar1973Man said:

Not to mention the lubricity of the WMO/WEO is low so it might cause wear to you fuel system components...

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how is that even possible??? Since motor oil is a lubricant, how would adding motor oil to your fuel reduce its lubricity???? Obviously motor oil is a better lubricant than diesel fuel, or we'd be putting diesel fuel in our crankcase instead of oil.

DD-i think people usually say that, when talking about this chart cause they fail to realize that, in the chart the WMO was tested at a 200:1 ratio and even at that it was a +2 improvement. now if you want to talk about metal particles then thats a valid worry of mine, the higher s.g is also a worry but both of these challenges can be overcome with a centrifuge and correct blending(unless you got a P7100 pump then who cares cause those things a dang near pump roofing tar)

then you need to worry about the incomplete burn, i.e. Blue smoke and coking but water injection and maybe a slightly advanced timing can help with this.

another tip that not many people dont think about is the fact that engine oil has detergents that are designed to keep water suspended. this makes it so that when you have water in the crankcase oil, it doesnt settle to the bottom of the oil pan. if that was to happen then when you started the engine it would suck the water into the oil pickup tube directly into the engine.
with the water suspended it just goes through the system until the oil reaches operating temp and then the water boils out.

and every time you shut down a engine that has a vented crank case water from the humid air collects inside. thus making these detergents necessary even for engines that are not off-roading.

water in wmo doesnt completly settle out like it does in WVO (some will but not all). some people think that if it stays suspended then it doesnt matter but i dont like that theory. therfore i settle my oil before boiling.

moral of the story is you need to
1.get the oil as clean as possible
2.get the water out (i only use the settling technique prior to boiling)
3.get the s.g. as close to D#2 as possible
4.keep the combustion chamber clean (water injection)

if you do these steps you can burn wmo in anything that doesnt have an optic sensor
the farther away from .76sg you get the more you are relying on the hardiness of your lift pump and injection pump.

BTW the s.g of #2 diesel is .76sg relative

also waste oil heaters are not compressed combustion chambers.

it might sound like im picking on you mopar man but i hope you realize im just giving another look at wmo.i hope you have no hard feelings