WMO: Do you run it and How do you run it?

Do you and if so how do you run WMO in your IDI?

  • 100% Waste Motor Oil (mixed with ATF and other OK for this answer)

    Votes: 10 23.3%
  • 100% ATF

    Votes: 2 4.7%
  • I blend at least 50/50 with #2 diesel

    Votes: 16 37.2%
  • I blend less than 50% with my #2 diesel

    Votes: 15 34.9%

  • Total voters
    43

mankypro

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Hey,

I'm assuming you're doing this in your 'stroke noted in the sig line? My IDI doesn;t have a filter light :)

Now I need to go back and check to see how many replies are from strokers. I was hoping to have the poll be IDI's only...

Can anyone who replied to the poll and is NOT in an IDI post to the thread so I can count ya? Let me know what you replied to the poll too,

So far the only issue I'm having with near 100% Watf is the fuel filter light coming on when it's cold and I first get on the highway.

The factory filter only has a couple thousand miles on it.

I'm filtering the watf on it's way into the tank with a marine fuel filter water separator that has a drain, and I let the barrels sit for days to settle before pulling anything out - and I don't pull off the bottom to minimize the risk of pulling water.

I may put a few gallons of diesel in to mix with the Watf - and see if that prevents the fuel filter light issue.

Has anyone else run into the fuel filter light problem?
(if I back off the throttle the light will go out)
 

milner351

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I replied to the poll as 100% atf and I'm running it in a powerstroke... sorry.
I used to have an idi - didn't know you intended this as an idi poll.
 

Desert Dually

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hi

I'm running about 20% WMO mixture in my '07 Dodge 5.9 :cool no issues so far

someday, I WILL pick up an older 6.9 IDI Ford - I love those engines!
 
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mankypro

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I see two folks answered 100% atf. I was wondering if those running 100% atf had any trouble with it's viscosity in cold weather? I'm about to run my first tank full of 100% atf.
 

sassyrel

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So far the only issue I'm having with near 100% Watf is the fuel filter light coming on when it's cold and I first get on the highway.

The factory filter only has a couple thousand miles on it.

I'm filtering the watf on it's way into the tank with a marine fuel filter water separator that has a drain, and I let the barrels sit for days to settle before pulling anything out - and I don't pull off the bottom to minimize the risk of pulling water.

I may put a few gallons of diesel in to mix with the Watf - and see if that prevents the fuel filter light issue.

Has anyone else run into the fuel filter light problem?
(if I back off the throttle the light will go out)
your filter is being starved--the lift pump doesnt like to pull that cold oil--been there--ask mel--at a idi weekend long ago---your going to have to thin it more as it gets cold--or heat the whole system---and this either pwrstrk--or idi--i own both--
 

mankypro

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I'm fully heated on my waste oil tanks and I'm about to add even more heat.

Been doing some research on collecting my own WVO. It's actually pretty amazing how much you need to go through to make WVO work. It flows worse than WMO in the cold, it has chunks in it, it clogs stuff up like crazy, you need to titrate it to make sure there aren't any caustics in it, it's more likely to have water in it. You shouldn't pull it from the dumpsters. You have to worry about return lines contaminating your #2 purge tank. It's wild.

WMO on the other hand - the shops I get it from, while farther away than my potential WVO sources in town keep their oil clean, free of water in a sump I can drive by at any time of the day or night to pump from. I heat it a bit, filter it and in the tank it goes. About 10k on 100% WMO with few issues except those caused by my own lack of troubleshooting. Lessons learned.

I'd love to run 100% WVO, but it's troublesome, contentious and potentially very expensive in the form of a dead engine. Not worth the time if you ask me.
 
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BigRigTech

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I ran about 30-40% WMO/ATF all summer through the early fall....Straight diesel for the winter, too damn cold for WMO without a bunch of heaters and etc....Worked great all summer
 

mankypro

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The ATF seems to flow fine in low temp, my transfer pump blows fuses trying to move straight WMO from a sump in this weather but the ATF flows nice and easy. I need to rig up a heated sucker rod for my WMO gathering in the winter.
 

Clydesdale

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Huh, never knew... looking for a job currently, guess I will focus on sources of WMO/Watf... cheap fuel, and a paycheck..>!
 

02AutoWag

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I have ruled out WVO as a possible fuel source as the need to heat WVO is clearly documented, even though I live in California where it doesn't get THAT cold. So my questions turn to WMO and WATF...

I understand that one wants to try to find regular WMO to run and should stay away from synthetic WMO. I believe this is due to their different burn characteristics.

Is there a common concern with regular versus synthetic WATF as well?

What is the general difference in burn characteristics of WMO versus WATF?
Or is it just the cold temperature pumping abilities that differ?
Can someone rate the burn and flow of each type of fluid?

Is it more or is it less likely that ATF would be contaminated versus WMO?

The reason I ask is because there are a bunch of auto shops and transmission shops locally. I do not want to have to ask the shops to seperate reg and syn WMO, as I think it would be a bother for them (I know, I haven't even asked them yet). If I could just pickup WATF and not have to worry about water and brake fluid contamination, then it'll be one less step, one less filter, one less hastle (of course some will say just run the extra filters just in case).
 

mankypro

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Almost impossible to get WMO in the Panhandle - I know I've tried people have it all locked up already. Maybe you'll have more luck father down near Boise.

Huh, never knew... looking for a job currently, guess I will focus on sources of WMO/Watf... cheap fuel, and a paycheck..>!
 

mankypro

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Dude where you live you're lucky you haven't been drawn and quartered just for having an old diesel. They'll tar and feather you if they ever find out that you're burning WMO...

I have ruled out WVO as a possible fuel source as the need to heat WVO is clearly documented, even though I live in California where it doesn't get THAT cold. So my questions turn to WMO and WATF...

I understand that one wants to try to find regular WMO to run and should stay away from synthetic WMO. I believe this is due to their different burn characteristics.

Is there a common concern with regular versus synthetic WATF as well?

What is the general difference in burn characteristics of WMO versus WATF?
Or is it just the cold temperature pumping abilities that differ?
Can someone rate the burn and flow of each type of fluid?

Is it more or is it less likely that ATF would be contaminated versus WMO?

The reason I ask is because there are a bunch of auto shops and transmission shops locally. I do not want to have to ask the shops to seperate reg and syn WMO, as I think it would be a bother for them (I know, I haven't even asked them yet). If I could just pickup WATF and not have to worry about water and brake fluid contamination, then it'll be one less step, one less filter, one less hastle (of course some will say just run the extra filters just in case).
 

02AutoWag

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Did you check my signature?...all diesel household...and loving it:D. We've run bio in the VWs, but just D2 in the IDIs. Haven't put any WMO or WATF in the IDIs yet, but want to...hence the questions.

Dude where you live you're lucky you haven't been drawn and quartered just for having an old diesel. They'll tar and feather you if they ever find out that you're burning WMO...
 

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