Clinking( metal clicking) noise when rolling

UslAura1

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Hello, i have a 1992 f250, auto 4wd with a 7.3idi, since we’re at the season with open windows, i noticed a clicking noise coming from under the truck, i can hear it at 20-30kph, i looked everywhere under, in the drums, the front end and cant seem to find it, i was wondering, what could cause it? Maybe something IN the rear diff? But i wouldn’t know what, truck drives great as always
 

UslAura1

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I looked again today with a friend, he went in the bed and listened, all the ujoints are good, and the noise seems to come from the driver rear wheel, i checked the drums yesterday and there was nothing loose, what could be? A bearing or the axle shaft?
 

UslAura1

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Yeah i took the drum appart, just didnt know if the bearing themselves could click like that
 

ihc1470

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How are you checking the u-joints? If you have the truck in park or gear so there no way to releave the load on the drive shaft you will not as a rule be able to find loose joints. Not saying that is your issue but just a thought. Depends on which rear axle is in your 250 if full floating the bearings run in oil and usually give little trouble. Semi floating like in the 82 250 I had went over 300K and never gave any issues either. So bearings would not be as high on my list as u-joints. Truck I am driving now got all the u-joints replaced at 145K. Also cost me a drive line when the one failed.
 

franklin2

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Just remember, a rotation squeak in the u-joints is going to be 3.5 to 4 times faster than a squeak out at the wheels/brakes.
 

onetonjohn

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If you add your truck details in your signature, it will help us figure out what you've got. If you have extended cab truck, your rear driveline likely has a center carrier (two section rear drive line). The center support rubber goes bad and that thing can clunk around. Just grab hold of the driveline near the support and wiggle (hard) in a couple directions. You'll know if it's bad.
 

UslAura1

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Got it sorted out, opened the drums for the second time and saw that the parking brake arm was loose, seems like a piece is missing with the spring where it holds near the wheelcylinder, now i have a problem with my damn brake lights that wont shut off if i dont tap the on/off switch with a tool
 

rreegg

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Got it sorted out, opened the drums for the second time and saw that the parking brake arm was loose, seems like a piece is missing with the spring where it holds near the wheelcylinder, now i have a problem with my damn brake lights that wont shut off if i dont tap the on/off switch with a tool
Glad to hear you found it.
Have you done any work in the brake pedal assembly and removed the switch by chance? Asking because I once replace the switch backwards or upside down don’t remember and had weird issues, just Murphys law kind of stuff
 

UslAura1

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Nah i didn’t touch them since last year, just yesterday it started to make this, i press on the brake and the lights come on, and when i remove my foot from the pedal sometimes it stays on and i have to play with the pedal for the lights to shut off
 

UslAura1

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Its the on/off switch mounted with the brake pedal pin that the brake booster pins to, the other one is a vacuum switch
 

IDIBRONCO

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The vacuum switch is to cancel your cruise control. The electrical switch is for the brake lights.
 

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