Bought a new truck, cant get it started. No fuel coming out of the injection pump.

franklin2 said:

So you have verified you have 12v while cranking and in run at the IP? Or are you using a jumper wire to the battery there also?

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For some weird reason when I first started messing with it it had power to the FSS when the key was turned on. I dont know what happened but at some point it lost power with the key on so I ran a jumper wire directly to it whenever I've been cranking.

headhunter38 said:

For some weird reason when I first started messing with it it had power to the FSS when the key was turned on. I dont know what happened but at some point it lost power with the key on so I ran a jumper wire directly to it whenever I've been cranking.

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Just making sure. I would keep it like that till you got it running. Attack it in baby steps.

I would pull the schrader valve on the fuel filter head and catch the fuel in a container while you crank it an see if you get good fuel flow there. If you dont get good flow there your pump may be tired

Okay so I think I found the problem with this pump. Looks like the delivery valve is stuck. I took out the screw that holds it in and the spring and plunger fall out but the valve itself does not like its supposed to. I read of someone having this problem and soaking it in lacquer thinner worked to free the valve. Will report back on how successful this is. Hopefully this is all I have to do to it.

Beware of plastic and rubber...
Step up slowly with the solvent...

Ok so here's a little update. I put the "new" ip back on and tried to bleed it. Nothing. Tried sucking up solvent with the lift pump and cranking it to soak the internals more. Still nothing. I believe the plunges are gummed up like the delivery valve was. I dont want to disassemble it and see just yet, I need to get this truck running and driving before my apartment complex puts a tow notice on it(its been parked in the same spot for over 2 weeks and been spilling diesel on thr ground trying to get it started). I put the old IP back and got that one to pump fuel to the injectors. Bled the injectors and nearly got it started. It sounds like it wants to fire but I think my batteries are too weak and boosting with jumper cables from the other truck just isn't enough. So with fully charged batteries and my other trucks welder/charger boosting tomorrow I hope ill get it fire up tomorrow. New batteries are probably in my future for it anyways.

headhunter38 said:

Ok so here's a little update. I put the "new" ip back on and tried to bleed it. Nothing. Tried sucking up solvent with the lift pump and cranking it to soak the internals more. Still nothing. I believe the plunges are gummed up like the delivery valve was. I dont want to disassemble it and see just yet, I need to get this truck running and driving before my apartment complex puts a tow notice on it(its been parked in the same spot for over 2 weeks and been spilling diesel on thr ground trying to get it started). I put the old IP back and got that one to pump fuel to the injectors. Bled the injectors and nearly got it started. It sounds like it wants to fire but I think my batteries are too weak and boosting with jumper cables from the other truck just isn't enough. So with fully charged batteries and my other trucks welder/charger boosting tomorrow I hope ill get it fire up tomorrow. New batteries are probably in my future for it anyways.

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If its a manual transmission, these trucks crank super easy and almost instantly with a pull start......if you have a friend you trust to pull you.

Okay so here's a little video of where im currently at.

Got fuel to the injectors, just cant get it to fire. Like it shows in the video smoke comes out of the cdr valve immediately while cranking. Could that mean something related to the timing. It gets closer to firing when using starting fluid. I advanced the IP and it seemed even closer to firing so I think im going to try and advance the IP even more. If anyone has suggestions of what else i should try before pulling the timing cover and verifying timing I would appreciate it.

Go easy with the ether. Just a 1 second shot will do. Also be sure to disconnect the glow plugs before using it (if you mentioned that you did, I'm sorry about forgetting it). You gave it too much in the video. That's why the engine acts like it tries to stop while you're cranking it over. The "smoke" is just blow by and that's what the CDR is supposed to do. Don't worry about it at this point, and, no, it's not related to timing. It sounds like the starter isn't turning the engine over fast enough. Some of it's too much ether, some may be from weak batteries or a weak starter. If the starter can't turn the engine fast enough, it won't start. If, by "pulling the timing cover", you mean the housing that the injector pump attaches to, that's the wrong way to go about it. You probably won't be able to see any marks on the gears when they're close together. That best way to check the timing, as far as I'm concerned, is to remove the front engine cover that's behind the water pump. With that out of the way, you can see the marks on all three gears. The oil pump drive gear on the bottom doesn't need to be timed.

IDIBRONCO said:

Also be sure to disconnect the glow plugs before using it (if you mentioned that you did, I'm sorry about forgetting it).

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Im pretty sure they aren't working. The WTS light is on all the time, and I dont hear any clicking. I think i shorted it with a wrench when I first started working on it trying to loosen the injectors by it.

IDIBRONCO said:

It sounds like the starter isn't turning the engine over fast enough. Some of it's too much ether, some may be from weak batteries or a weak starter. If the starter can't turn the engine fast enough, it won't start.

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One of the batteries is weak, however i was boosting it with my f250 and its a 160amp alternator that can power a stick welder. If I let it charge for a couple of minutes it cranks much faster than the video shows. For that video I just wanted to show the cdr smoke and didn't let it charge enough. I have another good battery that ill try substituting the weak battery with tomorrow. If that's still not enough ill probably go buy two new batteries.

IDIBRONCO said:

If, by "pulling the timing cover", you mean the housing that the injector pump attaches to, that's the wrong way to go about it.

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I dont mean that one. I mean the one with the crank seal. I did stupidly pull the injection pump housing at first when swapping the IPs. I used the feeling with a pick method to find the camshaft y. Im like 99.99% positive i found the "valley" that it sits on the camshaft gear and paint marked the two "mountains" to either side of it. I marked the "mountain" of the y on the injection pump gear and am 100% certain my paint marks were lined up. I suppose however that they could be off on the cam gear and that is what Im thinking I will check next if the batteries and or advancing the IP more doesnt work. I advanced the pump as much as I could with loosening and tbe injector lines and it got closer to starting. Tomorrow I plan to loosen all of them and try even more advance, its getting late and I cant make much more noise tonight or ill get complaints.

Which engines have the timing marks on the camshaft gear like in the picture on the left? My understanding was that the mark on the camshaft that is supposed to align with the crankshaft gear was also a dimple like on the crankshaft gear, not a stamped "O". If my camshaft gear has the stamped "O" and not the dimple then I can see how similar it is to the Y mark and can could be mistaken for it if using the feeling with a pick method. I am going to take the injection pump cover and inspect it closer. Ill figure out a way to actually see the y mark with my eyes instead of just feeling for it.

I can't remember how I did it........I distinctly remember it being very difficult, though. Good luck, Senor! Keep us posted!

Im at a loss. I took the ip and housing off. The timing is correct. I verified the y mark with a mirror and light. I dont know what to do next. Im going out of town for a week and will get back to it in a week. If anyone has suggestions for me when I get back ill give them a try. Thanks

headhunter38 said:

Which engines have the timing marks on the camshaft gear like in the picture on the left?

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All of the 6.9/7.3 IDI have those timing marks. Did you try advancing the IP any more before tearing the housing off?

Black dawg said:

When you cranked on it with the top off of the pump, did the fuel level in the housing rise?

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Could also remove the return fitting and see if fuel flows out while cranking.