Half-azzed paint job advice?

DOE-SST

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I have painted a fair number of aircraft, including 25 million dollar bizjets, where the owners inspect the finish as if they were going to eat off it. So I didn't hesitate to repaint the small hood on my van.

I went to the NAPA paint/body store and bought the most expensive matching color and clear paint they had. Spent about $300 for just enough paint to do the hood. Did all the usual prep work, followed the instructions to the letter, sprayed, and was happy with the result.

Four years later, the clear coat has peeled off over 50% of the surface. I'm a little irritated the materials were crap and the job needs to be redone. I'm sure there are true pro automotive paints available somewhere, but my research didn't show any with proof of superior lasting ability. Granted, I'm in the desert with lots of intense sunshine.
Most of the car painting vids I've seen are on cars that will be garaged 99% of the time and not exposed to the elements.

If I repaint, I'll do the entire vehicle with an aviation polyurethane and screw the color matching. Imron or JetGlo is about $1000/gallon.

You might consider finding an enamel or appliance-epoxy spray paint color close to the beige on the side of your truck. I doubt you'll find a rattle-can brown that will match. The beige on the hood will be far enough away from the beige sides so a slight mismatch won't be readily apparent. I don't know of a long lasting clear urethane that holds up for years, unless you get into the mega-buck paint systems. I've tried the spray can urethanes on polished plastic headlights but they peeled after a year.

A friend and I went to the local kwicky paint shop. They wanted $800 to put a single coat of cheap paint on my van, $2000 for their deluxe paint and service. They had a viewing window allowing us to see newly painted cars coming out of the paint booth. We laughed our butts off. horrible masking, overspray all over, orange peel, dry spots, runs, paint over dirt, etc. And, they were rolling these cars outside after an hour of drying time. Monkeys with cans of spray paint could have done a better job.
 
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ROCK HARVEY

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I have heard very good things about tamco paints if you do decide to use real spray equipment. That’s what I plan to use when I eventually paint my truck.

For the cheap option, my vote is rustoleum turbo black with the US flag stenciled on top using rustoleum turbo white. They do make a rustoleum turbo clear that you can add on top as well. $50 for all 3 cans and you’re done.
 

rhkcommander

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Wasn't POR15 the popular choice years ago? Could probably use a foam roller too or was that mostly for the underbody?

I like these single stage ideas though
 

Clb

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Por 15 is a rust stabilizing product.
Freaking glidden is @ $100 a gallon, so that 1k gallon of imiron is a bargain
 

quickster

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I painted the truck in my sig 2 years ago in my garage. I used a HB gun and my crappy compressor. Did minimal bondo, eliminated the fender markings,(F250). Left all the dings and dents. Paint cost 450 from Sherman Williams auto. Urethane , no clear or anything else. Wash it up and it looks as good as the day it was put on. Then I blacked everything else out. I hate chrome.
 

Clb

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Just a thought, here in the land of fruits and NUTz where EVERYTHING'S Illegal now.
I miss imron
 

DOE-SST

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Yeah, Imron was really eye-opening for the first users. Catalyst that didn't fully harden for 18 hours. Paint an airplane at noon, 5pm it still looks great, come back the next morning to find the entire paint job on the vertical surfaces has sagged and wrinkled like a 90 year old woman's br____ts.

We should probably inform newbie painters about the health hazards of using modern 2-part, or catalyzed paints. Most require a positive pressure breathing system, and they aren't kidding. My first whiff of JetGlo catalyst started eating my lungs immediately. You can tell real quick if your mask has even the smallest leak.
 

Booyah45828

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Yeah googling imron and jetglo gives me the vibe that those products aren't targeted at the DIY'er using an old siphon spray gun LOL
 
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hacked89

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Yeah googling imron and jetglo gives me the vibe that those products aren't targeted at the DIY'er using an old siphon spray gun LOL
It’s the isocyanates. I use full mask, sealed, the correct cartridges, and do a scent test with something like gasoline before even going near it.

I remember being a kid and repainting a bumper with a friend in his uncles auto body shop with no mask..
 

Clb

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Yeah, Imron was really eye-opening for the first users. Catalyst that didn't fully harden for 18 hours. Paint an airplane at noon, 5pm it still looks great, come back the next morning to find the entire paint job on the vertical surfaces has sagged and wrinkled like a 90 year old woman's br____ts.

We should probably inform newbie painters about the health hazards of using modern 2-part, or catalyzed paints. Most require a positive pressure breathing system, and they aren't kidding. My first whiff of JetGlo catalyst started eating my lungs immediately. You can tell real quick if your mask has even the smallest leak.


Yea, I forget about cure time, and wholly **** health issues.
First garage shoot I did , it was astounding how many bugs hide inna rocked room.
Shot a vw bug, came back to a salad bow...
+1 on msds reading, also ask the vendors for a recommendation
 

DOE-SST

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Yeah googling imron and jetglo gives me the vibe that those products aren't targeted at the DIY'er using an old siphon spray gun LOL

They aren't, but anyone can still buy these products fairly easily, even though the manufacturers say they are for commercial paint shops only. The aircraft polyurethanes I've worked with are really plastic coatings, designed to withstand extreme temperature swings from -60f to +140f as well as not crack while the aircraft changes size due to temp changes. I once left a small amount of color paint (no catalyst or additives) in a jar to dry up, and it turned into a crumbly powder.

They are a different animal when being applied vs automotive paints. Someone with only car painting experience is likely to have dismal results their first time using mega-buck aviation paints. The manufacturers are constantly tweaking their formulas. And you can get various specialty coatings for radomes, and high-solids paints to shave weight, etc.

I have not tried the amateur aircraft paints like Randolf or Superflite, which are cheaper, and may be a little more user friendly and still offer the benefits of a polyurethane.

Well, enough about aircraft, lets get back to that old IDI truck with the faded hood. I hope the OP will regale us with his chosen paint system and the results.
 
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Brian VT

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The only part that looks bad now is the hood. So I'm going to do a temporary something.
Even with proper equipment and paint I don't have any experience with it so I will likely do more harm than good.
I am not inclined to do anything more than a half-azzed job (as the title states) on the hood until I have the money to pay someone for a proper whole-truck job (even though the rest of the truck looks fine). I'm not going to put more than a few hours into it. The thread has gotten away from that so I guess I'll just wing it.
 

1mouse3

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The only part that looks bad now is the hood. So I'm going to do a temporary something.
Even with proper equipment and paint I don't have any experience with it so I will likely do more harm than good.
I am not inclined to do anything more than a half-azzed job (as the title states) on the hood until I have the money to pay someone for a proper whole-truck job (even though the rest of the truck looks fine). I'm not going to put more than a few hours into it. The thread has gotten away from that so I guess I'll just wing it.

A high build enamel will lay flat on its own and not need a perfect suffice to look good. You could look for a local paint shop and see if they can mix you some in a spray can, you can get a refill spray can and get a small bit from them if they dont. Just make sure the surfice is all scuffed up so the paint will stick, then wipe down with mek or acetone. This paint wont want to stay mixed, so spray a line, shake the can, then repeat. With the primer, spary some on card board at the same time as you spray the hood. When the paint on the card board is dry to touch, shoot your top coat and your done. Since you will be doing it out a spray can, you wont have hardner. It needs some days to set and do it where the sun will shine on it for heat, and do it when not cool out. This will give you the best chance for it to set.


refill spray can
 
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DOE-SST

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The only part that looks bad now is the hood. So I'm going to do a temporary something.
Even with proper equipment and paint I don't have any experience with it so I will likely do more harm than good.
I am not inclined to do anything more than a half-azzed job (as the title states) on the hood until I have the money to pay someone for a proper whole-truck job (even though the rest of the truck looks fine). I'm not going to put more than a few hours into it. The thread has gotten away from that so I guess I'll just wing it.
If it is the original paint and there is not a clear coat that is pealing, just fading color, you could try polishing the paint to remove the oxidation. That would require a cheap electric buffer, some pads, and polishing compounds. Some paints will polish up great and some won't. As a test, use a soft cotton rag with some toothpaste and give a small area a good rubbing. If you like the results, use a buffer, but only on low speed and with light pressure. There are youtube videos that will show you how.
 

Brian VT

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I'm sure the rest of the truck would buff out to be very nice. It looks pretty nice now.
The hood is toast. It's an eyesore. Even a 15 minute job with a can from the dollar store would have to look better.
 

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