Half-azzed paint job advice?

Brian VT

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My original paint all looks pretty good but the hood paint is baked to a crisp and looks pretty bad. I don't know why the top edges of the front fenders aren't also?
I don't have the $ to put into a whole truck paint job right now. And I have no experience with painting. Do you think I can do a half-azzed job of painting just the hood with a rattle can to make me happy for a while without pizzing off the guy that might be asked to paint the whole truck some day? Or would it end up worse than doing nothing?
Any and all advice appreciated.
 

Nero

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Might be better to sand and primer the hood/fenders, then spray it with some acrylic single stage. Then just buff the rest of the truck, and it'll shine up to match.
if you have an air compressor and access to a cheap spray gun, could be a fun weekend project.
 

Brian VT

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Getting into the fenders (which look fine) is definitely out of my league. And I'd probably even be dangerous with a buffer.
Is the acrylic single-stage that you mention available in a rattle can? Can I do more damage than good with it?
I would mask off everything around the hood, sand the rust off it and make it somewhat smooth (but not strip it), clean that up, and then hit it with the rattle can. I don't think I'm up for much more than that.
Bad idea?
 

Clb

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First outta the gate.
Yer gunna h a t e a rattle can finish shot with the hood on.
At least hang it on a wall....

2nd
Sand and cut it first.
Then play with a cheap cup gun on cardboard first.
Look at some of those single stage ,duplicolor, they make oem paint match kits also, heck hit yer local auto body jobber and ask them to guide you thru a quick and dirty setup.
 

Brian VT

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Start spraying until you hear bald eagles in the distance

That may be the better option rather than trying to half-*** blend it in with the rest of the truck.
Maybe a "Don't Tread On Me"?

p.s. I have bald eagles around here. I don't like hearing them. I wish I could just watch them and not have them open their mouths. They sound much too wimpy for our National bird. A damned crow has more authority in it's voice than a bald eagle.
 

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Old Goat

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Off the shelf Rattle cans, I would pass on.
There is krylon, Rustolium etc.....

If you want to do the job right, use automotive paint.
I don`t know if all Paint Stores do it, but some will mix the paint and put it into a Rattle can.

(I have one I had mixed back in 11/19/21 when I ripped out the interior of the 85, was going to paint the plastic panels. Closest color I came up with looking at paint chips was "Atlas Red". Later discovered it is "Canyon Red". Maybe get back to it this summer)

I suggest you get every Paint & Body book you can find, read up on Paint/Body work. There is a ton of YT Videos on how to paint, prep etc...
You can do it, your fear will stop you.
FEAR = False Evidence Appearing Real.

I have a 82 Datsun 720 KC Diesel I bought back in 10/81. Still have it.
I think it was around 1990, paint was falling apart. Decided to paint it....never done it before.
There was no internet back then. read all the books, watched VHS Videos etc....
HVLP Paint Guns were the rage back then. Bought an Accuspray gun, $400. Found an old Air Compressor, 60 gallon horizonal, with Honda gas engine and a big 2 lunger air pump, something that was hacked together. Paid $150. (old P O S)
Had to crack the Air Bleeder on bottom of tank to maintain correct pressure.

Later I sold the Compressor after I pulled the big threaded plug on the end and took a look inside, Thick blistery rust. Build date of 1944......a bomb waiting to happen.

Pulled the Hood, fenders, Doors, bed etc... and painted it all in sections and put it back together.
new Door seals, window seals etc....
Used PPG Deltron single stage. Had one little run that wasn`t much.
I amazed my self how good it came out.

Today I can polish it out, (hands turn red) and she still looks brand new.

I made a paint booth out of PCV Pipe and plastic tarps.


I would recommend you remove the Hood, place it on saw Horse`s to do the work. easy to do, my Wife helps me when we remove it and install.

Goat
 

Nero

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First outta the gate.
Yer gunna h a t e a rattle can finish shot with the hood on.
At least hang it on a wall....

2nd
Sand and cut it first.
Then play with a cheap cup gun on cardboard first.
Look at some of those single stage ,duplicolor, they make oem paint match kits also, heck hit yer local auto body jobber and ask them to guide you thru a quick and dirty setup.
This, 100%

I watched my old man paint cars for a living for years. He also painted my crew cab, which is why my cab and rear doors don't match the rest. Same color, but flat vs glossy.

The great thing about single stage, is the clear and color are mixed together, so as the paint ages, it'll fade to flat, but you can polish it up to a mirror finish again. It's also a single coat lay down call it good.

Newer cars are 2 or 3 coats. Usually 1 or 2 colors of base, then a clear coat. That's why on newer cars you can see the clear coat peeling after a while from sun damage, or maybe just a dirty job.

You'll be most happy with a single stage shoot and buff job. Thing is with buffing, don't press too hard, don't stay in one spot too long. You're looking to shine it, not cook it with the buffer wheel.
 

Jesus Freak

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That may be the better option rather than trying to half-*** blend it in with the rest of the truck.
Maybe a "Don't Tread On Me"?

p.s. I have bald eagles around here. I don't like hearing them. I wish I could just watch them and not have them open their mouths. They sound much too wimpy for our National bird. A damned crow has more authority in it's voice than a bald eagle.
Bald eagles are a sham. Ben Franklin wanted a turkey gobbler for the national bird, territorial and athoratative.

And as far as painting, in my humble but accurate opinion, if you're not going to "go the distance" like @FrozenMerc, don't touch it. Rust is beautiful, and so is cooked clear coat.
 

hacked89

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I did halfway hack paint job on my 89 black truck. Sanded it, primed, base coat, clear. Body work isn’t fun to me but it’s easy. The quality depends on your patience and time you want to invest. You can imagine I didn’t invest a whole lotta time. My favorite things are mechanical and actually electrical, no joke.

I also cut the bottom quarter of the cab off and rewelded in new.

Every time I do this I say to myself I’m never going to do it again and then I do it again once I see the cost of paying someone else.

Also on this truck I didn’t even bother cutting and buffing the clear. On other cars I’ve done, I did, and came out like factory finish. This one’s got the German orange peel finish.
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ROCK HARVEY

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If you decide to just rattle-can it, take a look at the rustoleum “turbo” cans. They put out a huge pattern the size of a real spray gun, and the cover big areas fast. Just search YouTube for “rustoleum turbo” and you’ll see what I mean. I like the idea of something different for the hood, like a flag or “don’t tread on me”. Keep us updated!
 

ROCK HARVEY

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Actually I’ll save you the searching on YouTube. Here’s what I was talking about:

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1mouse3

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As for rattle cans, I dont recomend them much. As for paint type, a high build enamel lays best for a single stage. A mix of both eat time waiting since there is no hardner in a rattle can, you have to wait for the paint to level out before using a heat gun on it. I used dupli-color hi-build on my frame 2 years ago, it only comes in black, white or red. The white is fine and will set on its own in 3 to 4 days, the black on the other hand will not set on its own. If you heat the paint before it had time to settle out, the heat gun will cause it to ripple. You can heat the opposit side and not have issues. Also with that paint you need to shake the can as you are spraing it, other wise it shoots chunks. The gray engine enamel or silver cliper paint I used, will lay to thin for me to recommend for a full spray. I do need to go back and fix a few areas I rushed, along with some rust I did not treat well enough.


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For cost, this is how many cans where used for the front section of the frame including the bummper...

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So did some digging and found a better choice in a single stage high build enamel paint, this his is what I found. The benifit of this type paint is it will lay thick and will hide inperfections. With it being thick, it can be cut and buffed to a shine if wantted. Also being that it is used in sprayer, a hardner can be used so the negitve from in above is not in play.

high build paint


You could get there with a think enamel coat using rust-oleum paint, but would need many more coats. A hplv gun will not get you there since needs to be cut with reducer to be sprayed, played with that in the past. A hvlp gun could get you there, like with the electric one used for house paint. Yes there is a chance to get a choppy coat with that, but can be corrected. With a think coat, you have enough to be cut and buffed smooth. I would not chose this path because of the extra labor and hardener should be used here as well for a durable coat.


If have a steady hand and want to play with a clear, you wont need to worry about a base coat being thin as long as you cant see through it. A 2k urethane would be best here since it has hardner and gives a durable surface. You would need proper fresh air for this since you dont want to breath it. You can get away with a lacquer and clear, but belive that one dose not like the sun and wont be durable like enamel or urethane.
 

Brian VT

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If you decide to just rattle-can it, take a look at the rustoleum “turbo” cans. They put out a huge pattern the size of a real spray gun, and the cover big areas fast. Just search YouTube for “rustoleum turbo” and you’ll see what I mean. I like the idea of something different for the hood, like a flag or “don’t tread on me”. Keep us updated!
That looks like it's in my pay grade. ;-) Thanks.
What's the worst that could happen? I have to bring it to a pro. anyway.
 

Booyah45828

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FYI the turbo can is no more then a larger can with their fan nozzle. I believe the fan nozzle can be swapped onto regular cans so that you have a wider range of colors available, as IIRC the turbo line only has black and white as available colors.

As far as messing it up for the paint guy, it depends on what the paint guy is going to do, as certain paints don't play well with other paints. And if he's going to be doing body work prior to painting, he'll likely strip it to bare metal anyways, so that he can apply the filler and primer without worry of failure.
 

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