Water pump Question, coolant system rehab

Nugget

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Ive read multiple water pump threads and still have questions.

Im going through the entire coolant system on my 89 f250 idi 5spd with 60k miles. It sat for a long time, but the truck is in excellent condition, just going through all the systems.

1. As Im replacing the thermostat, would it be pertinent to swap out the water pump while im at it? What about just changing the gasket on it? Which water pump is most recommended and closest to factory. I want to ensure im using the best 'no brainer' part.
I know to only use motorcraft thermostat, which is available at O'Reilly's, RT-1049, it included the gasket and was $28.99+tax.

I bought my peacock fittings from napa, part number G33831-0004. The vinyl tubing is 1/2-3/8 tubing.
I used pipe thread goop, that is rated for chemicals for the peacocks.

2. What i have done recently, is replaced the starter and went ahead and replaced the engine block heating element. My cord was cracking bad and you can replace that by itself as it plugs into the heating element. If you needed to test to see if your heating element is working, plug it in and after a few minutes, touch the outside of the element as it will be warm.
Be warned if the heating element is plugged in and there is no coolant, the element can explode.
Also, its critical to torque the lock screw in the center to 20-25in-lbs, yes inch. And the oring should Never be primed with oil, only soapy water or antifreeze.

3. Baking soda, then vinegar flush.
My coolant was disgusting, so i have flushed it several times. 1st with a mixture of baking soda and distilled water. I read many many articles about this and did it as follows.

Baking soda solubility is 9.3grams/100ml, in Layman's terms it comes out to 8.5%. I boiled my distilled water so i could super saturate it. I did not want to rely on just putting powder in the radiator. I used the https://www.harborfreight.com/cooling-system-test-and-refill-kit-64985.html which is worth the $80.
I then started it up and let it circulate a bit, then drained it all, then...

4. White Vinegar + distilled water, 50/50. Let it circulate, then let it sit for 2 days to allow it to breakdown the rust. Then drained it all.

5. Now going to fill the system completely with distilled water and let it warm up a little, then drain and should be mostly clear by then.

6. Dismantle cooling hoses and replace thermostat. Possibly water pump.

7. I may do the coolant filter mod as well.

The coolant I will be using after extensive study is Peak Final Charge global concentrate, napa had a sale of 19.99/gal. After reading extensive reports from a cummins coolant engineer, this coolant is the only one which does not require testing and prevents cavitation. The kicker, you have to flush the entire system.
 

Austin86250

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I’ve been rolling with the Murray brand water pump from o rilleys 15k miles 2 years strong
Im not an expert but why would you put coolant with scas in and then a Filter? A filter adds scas depending on which one you get
 

Clb

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My 93 has sub 60k on it and the factory waterpump.
I use same coolant
 

Old Goat

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When you drained the Coolant from the system, did you also remove the two Block drains on each side of the Block? Or just the Radiator?

There are 2 brass plugs, one just forward of the Starter, and one on the other side of the block.
Takes a 9/16" Socket. Even draining it, you never get all the water out.

I`ll throw in the thread on the Water Pump Bolts and what bolt goes where.


Never heard of using baking Soda before, I know
Vinegar is a neutralizer.
Always learning something new, or refreshment course on what I forgot. ;Sweet


Goat
 

Nugget

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When you drained the Coolant from the system, did you also remove the two Block drains on each side of the Block? Or just the Radiator?

There are 2 brass plugs, one just forward of the Starter, and one on the other side of the block.
Takes a 9/16" Socket. Even draining it, you never get all the water out.

I`ll throw in the thread on the Water Pump Bolts and what bolt goes where.


Never heard of using baking Soda before, I know
Vinegar is a neutralizer.
Always learning something new, or refreshment course on what I forgot. ;Sweet


Goat
I definitely removed the block drains, i also replaced the block heating element at same time. I installed peacocks as well in the block.

The baking soda acts as a mild abrasion and can clear out clogs, its also good for mild surface rust, but used to mostly clear up the system and dislodge particulates. Bs and h20 does create a gas but its subtle compared to vinegar.
I let the vinegar sit for a few days, bc its an old trick for tea kettles with rust on the bottom, mild rust remover, plus it would react with any left over baking soda.
I didnt feel comfortable doing vinegar and bs together, because the reaction makes so much gas. I am going to try that with the reservoir tank to clean it.

The ford service manual does specify to always back flush the heater core separately and gives the procedure.
An "olde timer" at napa mentioned using clr in the heater core, as it worked a treat without compromising the joints. I think he mentioned diluting it some, but cant recall.
 

IDIBRONCO

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My opinion on the water pump is that if it's not leaking and the shaft that the fan bolts to isn't loose, then I don't see any reason to change it. I've never changed a water pump gasket just to change it. If you want to, then go ahead and do it, but don't feel like it's a requirement just because you're flushing your cooling system.
 

Nugget

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Thank you for the feedback, I will definitely heed your suggestion.

This system is filthy, so replacing all the hoses, and flushing heater core tomorrow with a clr 15 min soak followed by distilled water flush with supersaturated baking soda for deactivation as a recaution then distilled water flush.

Any suggestions about installing the heater core bypass valve that came on later fords?
Rockauto seems to offer one that going into the water pump location.
GPD 8211261 is the part. Any thoughts?


Is the factory heater core brass like the radiator?
 

Nugget

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If you want to read excellent info on coolant and why I chose Peak Final Charge here is the link. And it comments on the coolant filter and sca charge.
The “expert” is a Cummins coolant engineer.

 

Old Goat

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Wow what an interesting read on Antifreeze, what works of what, and what doesn`t.

This is the most informative one I have read.
Putting this on my Desk Top, then slide into my Coolant Folder.

Goat
 

Booyah45828

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Your flush will likely work. Without pictures of the coolant, nobody can tell how bad it actually is though. I've dealt with a lot of systems that were trashed, IMO worst ones were gm v6 engines and dexcool. Rust I've always used motorcraft vc9 and it's worked excellent at cleaning it up. Next rusty one I plan on using evaporust's thermocure, as the videos I've watched seem to show that it works really well. It's just most engines nowadays are alloy with nothing to rust.

Final charge is excellent. We use it in the shop. It's not maintenance free though, as you need to check it periodically with their specific test strip. It's also good practice to check freezepoint and PH as well. With that said, it doesn't require near the maintenance that conventional coolants require. Also, you can get filters without additives, and if your system is that gross, a filter is highly recommended. Most install one in the heater loop parallel to the heater core.

The valve you linked is good for making your AC system function better, but it's not required. Works better if you have an old vehicle with a leaky blend door seal.
 

Black dawg

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If you plan on replacing the pump, and the cooling system is that ugly, I would use M acid to clean, followed by neutralizing and flushing. Then replace the pump. That is the only thing I have found that will actually clean a bad cooling system.
 

Nugget

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I have saved all my coolant from the flush to show the progression and will get some photos up when i can.

The old coolant looked good, but im confident this is the first breakdown of the entire system, so suspect when it sat, the particulates settled creating a silt type layer.

Booyah: with peak final charge and coolant filter, would you suggest the non additive(precharged) filters vs the ones with the sca additive, according to the cummins engineer, the charge in the filters burns off rather quickly, but how do you think it would impact the oat coolant?

Is there a preferred coolant filter kit that would be recommended?

Thank you for the assistance.
 

Booyah45828

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With final charge do not use anything that contains sca's. So use blank filters ONLY. I don't know of the engineer you speak of, but I find it hard to believe someone that actually knows something would say it's not a big deal. Mixing coolants and additive packages is a big no-no.

I don't know which filter head you have in order to recommend a filter to you.
 

Nugget

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I agree and bought two empty wix filters, one to catch whatever is left in my system, then put in the new one after a month or two running.

The engineer write up is linked in one of my post above.
 

mf7lakes

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I'm wondering, in all your flushes and fills, how much distilled water do you think you went through ???
 

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