Fuse box to replace fusible links

Was wondering if anyone has recommendations for a fuse block under hood..get rid of fusible links
Thanks

Yep. You can go with any fuse box really. Just mount it to passenger fender.

Nothing magic about a fusible link...it's just a link of wire usually 4 gauge sizes "smaller" than the wire it's protecting. That is a length of 8 gauge fuse wire protects a 4 gauge wire wrapped in the harness. The roll of wire marked for use as fusible link wire will have insulation on it specifically designed to contain the aftermath ( molten copper, arcing ) of an overloaded circuit.

I used fuses like this:


Because I was using it on mains, and I was protecting a 200 amp glow plug feeder. A little high to be throwing at the smaller subcircuit fuse blocks.


I use both. If I am apt to blow it - fuse. If there is nowhere convenient to mount fuse holder safely - fusible link. I do like to both crimp and solder, as field failures resulting from water penetration and resistive thermal effects are such a PITA to deal with.

You need not wire the whole circuit with fusible link. Just a few inches of it spliced into the circuit, in an easy to get to place away from stuff that will be damaged in the event the wire has to blow.

Mine are around 3-4 inches long or so. Where they can be easily inspected by feel, or replaced, using solder butt connectors and shrinkwrap tubing. And away from other wires, hoses, etc. to avoid cascade problems

First time I came across Fusable Links, was when I bought (new) my 82 Datsun Diesel KC 720. Still have it.
Drove it for 30 years and never had a link burn out.

Then this 86 F-250 has them also. In the 8yrs 8mo I have owned it, never had a link give me a problem....yet.

I always figured it was cheaper to run some wire, than install Fuse Blocks when Ford was building these back in the day. Build cheap, and jack up the price.


Goat

I used this one to add headlight relays and an e-pump. It’s not waterproof but I’m happy with
it. Whatever you use, be careful of the hood spring clearance when you mount it. The spring comes way down with the hood closed and could smash a fuse box in the wrong place.

DaierTek 12V Fuse and Relay Box 6 Slots Relay Block 6 Slots ATC/ATO Fuse and Relay Block with Relay Universal Waterproof Fuse and Relay Box Kit for Automotive Car Truck Marine Boat https://a.co/d/57noC52

Fusible links are there for a catastrophic failure, such as a vehicle accident or a owner who is not too smart and doesn't disconnect the battery when changing the alternator or some other task like that. Fusible links are compact and weatherproof and can be incorporated easily in the harness. Ford still uses fusible links in their new vehicles.

As was mentioned above, replacing a fusible link with a fuse is going to require a mega fuse, most fusible links handle a lot of power. These type fuses are large, the fuse box will be large and taking up space under the hood. It will provide more connections for corrosion and other failures.

I like fusible links.

I forgot to bring this up, but one doesn't need to stock the whole assortment of fuse wire.

If one is careful on inserting a fusible link, one can parallel fusible links on the same circuit where the current rating is the sum total of the individual wires.

To make this work, wires must all be the same length, preferably all twisted together, with their ends all united together at the same end of a butt joint, crimped, and soldered into the circuit it is to protect. My fuselink runs are typically about four inches long, inserted in an easy-to-get-to place. I know there is a massive butt joint under the heat shrink at each end. I often have to fold the fuse wire back on itself to fill it's end of the butt joint connector properly, as fusible link wire is typically protecting a wire four gauges heavier, but both ends if the butt joint are the same size. It is very important to keep the resistance on all wires of a multiple parallel fuse wire assembly identical, lest all the current take the path of least resistance, blow that, then proceed with the remaining paths, until none left, which is often in seconds.


I keep a spool of this handy...


I have four strands in parallel protecting my #4 AWG main which goes from my battery rail to the White-Rodgers contactor for the glow plugs .

All crimped, soldered, and heat shrunk, trying to avoid water intrusion/corrosion, which if it happens, I will guarantee it will happen at a really bad time.

This is to protect against catastrophic failures, like having Jack Daniel around while working in the engine bay, or something compromises the harness insulation.