Starter.

kanderson1779

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I recently did a electronic fuel pump upgrade on my 7.3 IDI I took off the starter and the alternator and clean them up I put a block off plate where I removed the mechanical pump I got a relay with fuse combo got everything wired up with the alternator back on and put the starter back in and when I went to crank it over it I gave the truck a little jolt seem like a pretty strong pull actually because I had also bought new batteries. I tried it a few more times and same stuff wouldn't continue to turn over just the jolt. I took it out inspected it did a bench test seem to be working put it back in and same thing. Does anybody know if we have to shim these cuz there was no shims on it when I took it out I'm not quite sure why it's not doing what it's supposed to do everything that I removed I cleaned up contact points and everything before I put back together so if anything I would think that it'd be working better not worse. Especially with the new batteries.
 

KansasIDI

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I have never heard of or seen a starter shim on an IDI, but I only iwn one and have only been around and worked on 4. What voltage are you getting at the starter?
 

Rdnck84_03

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I would check to make sure all wires are tight on the solenoid, and the starter bolts are tight. If that is all good I would guess the contacts in solenoid are probably burnt and can't carry the current under a load.
 

franklin2

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Turn your headlights on. Get someone to watch them as you try to start it. If the headlights go completely out, you have a battery or a battery connection problem. If they stay lit, then you have a starter problem.
 

DaveBen

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Check the electrical connections to the starter. Make sure they are CLEAN and TIGHT. Loose and/or dirty connections won't allow the starter to get full current they need.
 

IDIBRONCO

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It gave the truck a jolt as in it tried to move the truck forward or backward? Do you have a manual transmission? Are you in neutral? Did you look at where the starter mates against the adapter plate? It could be that the top bolt isn't tight enough to pull the top of the starter up tight against the adapter plate.
 

kanderson1779

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Bolt where the remote wire connects is loose. I have a high starter coming in a couple days hopefully when I plug that sucker in it'll start right up
 

kanderson1779

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i checked the neutral safety switch. nothing happened when i jumped it but the wires are exposed 1/4 inch or more before the device connector. that is going to come off and get replaced. the starter is working, it contacts the fly wheel and gives a good yank getting caught into the fly wheel. the new starter has 13 teeth just like the previous one; that began to do the same thing when i put it back the way i got it. i checked the battery volts while key is in the start position. they barley budged on the meater. plus they are a few days off the shelf at 850 cca each.
 

kanderson1779

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i know i have two bad glow plugs and i have not checked voltage from the battery down to the starter yet. i did the compression on the engine seems fine when i hand turn in(manualy).i put some led headlights and converted to the elect duralift with the fuse at 3 amps to the pump. and block off plate.
 

kanderson1779

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i cant help but think that maybe something fell in throught the hole where the stock pump was, when i turn the moter my self it will go so far and then become diffucitalt to no more turn then the same in the other direction. i dot know if that is norm.
 

kanderson1779

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i dont want to keep cranking the moter when it feels like it keeps getting cought up and i have removed the plate around the fly wheel . it does appear to be damaged. i dont want to damage the new starter or the fly wheel. further the wheel is not missing any teeht and only seems to be slightly damaged. i thing anyway ill get some picts later today.
please excuse my typing i am tired not even look ing at the screen and just letting them rip.
 

kanderson1779

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It gave the truck a jolt as in it tried to move the truck forward or backward? Do you have a manual transmission? Are you in neutral? Did you look at where the starter mates against the adapter plate? It could be that the top bolt isn't tight enough to pull the top of the starter up tight against the adapter plate.
their was no mention of an adapter plate from the seller . i will contact to find out. it seems to sit in the same as the other bendix distanc wise un energised.
Check the electrical connections to the starter. Make sure they are CLEAN and TIGHT. Loose and/or dirty connections won't allow the starter to get full current they need.
i have made some lead extension for my meter. and an exstra with a button for remote on temp on applications
 

IDIBRONCO

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their was no mention of an adapter plate from the seller . i will contact to find out. it seems to sit in the same as the other bendix distanc wise un energised.
The adapter plate is on the back of your engine between it and the transmission. It's about 1 1/2" thick and made of cast iron (I think). It's also what your starter bolts to.
 

Nugget

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That binding is concerning, are you sure the engine is making a full rotation? Have you marked a belt to check how far it moves.

If the flywheel is damaged, i would recommend using a magnet to clean up any metal shavings or shards, including where the starter is inputted.

Also, you can pick up a boroscope with a monitor for less than $100. Mine was $70 a few years back on amazon. Awesome to check engine internals and hard to reach.

I have the factory adapter plate on mine, which is an 89 5spd manual. As above its about 1.5".

I just changed out my starter among other things a week or so ago. Db electrical 3.6kw for $130. Its such a night and day difference.
 

kanderson1779

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it is not making a full rotation. i jumped it from the starter relay and when i let go it spun back the other way just a bit
 

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