Wmo and IP timing

Hey guys, I’m about 1000L into my wmo burning and yes it’s a learning curve for sure, the Ute starts and runs fine on wmo80 yeah there’s some haze but hey. I have noticed the engine is well done on power when towing n heats quickly whilst running on this wmo, I’m almost finished the 2 tank set up and am plumbing in a heat exchanger to heat the fuel before the IP, I have read on here in a few different threads about advancing IP timing for wmo but the threads always end up all over the place and it’s hard to follow what the general consensus is,
I’m pretty confident in my viscosity, I am adding heat to the fuel line to help with combustion, what’s everyone’s thoughts on IP timing,

In case you have an Navistar IDI: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/7-3idi-wvo-ip-timing.91443

You need to play for some time to find your setup. And this setup you may need to adapt to the outside weather.
With a 2-tank system you may have it a bit easier. But it also depends on the outside temperature.

In case you have the Stanadyne DB2 IP: The Diesel/WMO is used to cool the IP.

I would
- heat the WMO tank
- mount 2 heat exchanger in the fuel line.
One before the tank switch/valve and one at the auxiliary filter you are going to install additionally before your existing Diesel filter.
- route the fuel line along the heater lines which go to your WMO tank.
- install a TigerLoop in the return line (but this will only work if your system doesn't suck air)
- install a valve/switch in the return line for a closed and a open line, that goes back to the WMO tank.

And maybe you need an additional transfer pump at the WMO tank during winter time.
I have a vaccuum system now, and it sucks. I am going to switch it towards a pressurized system.

I never ran any different timing with any wmo mix.

Have you ran your combination on diesel enough to know that the heating issue is more with wmo? We are talking about a 6.5 right? and is it turbo?

Yeah it’s a 6.5 and no turbo it’s NA, I’m pretty sure the issue is it’s not combusting the same, as in it’s not finished combusting so I’m burning some in the exhaust, hence down on power and running hot. IP and injectors are new, Ive run this on diesel plenty and it’s back on diesel right now,
I’m adding the heater to heat the fuel to aid in combustion (hope this is correct thing to do) not to aid in flow I don’t have a flow issue, if we are cooling the IP with fuel why are we heating the fuel??

This is where I’ve been setting up the heat exchanger to pre heat the fuel to aid in combustion, I’ll stop now if preheating is the wrong path,

Well, my down under friend, as you have observed opinions are all over the place. So here's mine: I did advance my timing a bit, how much? I don't know, the timing device I have is a pain. I think it's harder to start now, I also think I get a bit more power, but with a mechanically injected diesel on alternative fuels there's just so many variables that WHO KNOWS? I get a bit of haze too, but when Im cruising I can find a sweet spot on the accelerator where there's no haze and I'm maintaining or gaining speed. At some point im going to put it back where it was and see how it acts there after I'm thoroughly used to how it is. I don't know that the heat exchanger is necessary in your climate. I'm thinking about something like that myself, in my part of Florida I do have a "winter" for a couple months. But you might try it out and see if it does anything. Like you've noticed, it seems that EVERYONE has a different experience with this stuff so do your experiments, report your data, we'll look at it and come to our own conclusions. Carry on, MATE/DUDE!!!

I was going to skip the heat exchanger also but thought it might help with combustion of the wmo, now I’m concerned about heating my IP up too much if I do hook it up?? Any thoughts on this, I def don’t need heat exchanger for viscosity,

Install a valve infront or after the heat exchanger.
Doesn't matter if magnetic or not. Magnetic is more convenient.

During winter time or during warming up period, you can let the exchanger do his job.
During the summer time or after warm up, you just close the valve.

But you need a fuel pre-filter before the "fuel" enters the heat exchanger!


Nachschlag:

Thanks for the picture.

Even the space for the heat exchanger is great - but I would not put the heater next to the "cold air intrusion".

not too much cold air getting into this thing mate, are you saying that once engine is at tuning temp it will not need to preheat the WMO, if that is the case I won’t need it at all stopping starting
on d2

You have to find your way.

In Australia, your weather/climate is different than here in Finland.
What is good here and working for me, may not be necessarily working for you.

Just remember:
- IP needs cooling and lubrication.
- Alternative fuel needs a higher "working" temperature to reach a viscosity that makes your IP work nicely.

Now find your "engine working environment" that is the best compromise.
This may take in the beginning all 4 seasons - if you have them.

Also, since WMO has more energy than Diesel, your driving style (RPM) may change.

Ok siege 01, that’s a proper spanner In the works but it makes more sense than anything. I’m guessing also because I have a huge source of oil I should narrow it up a bit to one type of oil, too get a more consistent result

I have been trying to remember if I had ever towed with a heavy oil mix with a NA gm diesel. Many years ago pulled a travel trailer almost 700 miles with an NA 6.2 on a mix very similar to yours. Heat wasnt any more issue than normal, but power was down some.

I always forget that most people running WMO are running much thicker mixes than I did. I tried and saw others continue to run these thick mixes, I even ran a whole summer (about 10k that year) on 100 straight WMO. I just found that the whole process became much easier to run 50/50 with less headache and troubles.

Yep yep, well it’s all about longevity of the process for me, if it ends up at 50/50 it might have too, but I’ll sort my cooling and may even add a rotorex SC to give me back my power, wmo80 Is my aim,

I advanced my timing a frog hair after switching to WMO. The engine became much clackier at cruising rpms; sounded like a knock. It annoyed me. I moved it back to where I had it for diesel and I'm satisfied. ~1 year in. I ran w90 summer and am running w80 winter.

I am thinking of a heater too. Mid 90s Honda civic(probably others too) heater control is cable operated(junk yard find for $5) and could be used to control the temp of the heat exchanger. Also putting a fuel temp probe on the heat exchanger fuel out to see how warm it's getting or right before the injection pump fuel in. Then your good for all seasons and long trips as your fuel tank warms up. At least that was the idea I want to run with. Cheers