One rear brake locks up

IDIBRONCO

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Just a good wash with brake-kleen. It's usually been when a hub seal or wheel cyl fails shortly after putting in new shoes. Haven't had any problems.
I have done this when I was having hub seal problems. I'd put in a new seal and it would start leaking again fairly quickly. A Scot Seal fixed that problem. I really couldn't justify putting in a new pair of brake shoes every time a seal would leak. Do I recommend it? No. Have I had any problems after doing this? Not that I could tell.
 

franklin2

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I suppose it depends on how soaked they are. It doesn't hurt to try it. But if they are bad, I clean them up, and then a couple of days later they are locking up. I go back and take it apart, and there is this sticky gummy black stuff all over the shoes. I clean them up again, everything is fine for a couple of days, and then it's back to locking up again. Take them apart, same scenario. Could you ever get them clean enough, not sure how many times it would take. Heating them to drive out the contaminates seems to work though.

So no harm in trying to clean them, but sometimes it just doesn't work.
 

Jesus Freak

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Cleaning shoes has been 'worth it' to me. Just a good wash with brake-kleen. It's usually been when a hub seal or wheel cyl fails shortly after putting in new shoes. Haven't had any problems.

My background is autowrecking and wrenching on my own stuff. I don't have customers or liability to consider.
Man's gotta do what a man's gotta do. But as with anything, if you're having problems like @franklin2 discribed, change em. Or if their 30yrs old like @captain720 mentioned, change em. But if you're on a budget, they're fairly new, reasonably good, there's no liability, and your not Mario Andredi, roll with it.
 

sieg01

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The R(ear)ABS is primitive and only monitors a sudden change in speed of the driveshaft and the directly-coupled ring/pinion gear in the axle. It doesn't read individual wheel speeds.

As for "traction control", there is no such thing on a '94 e350. An axle can be equipped with a limited-slip differential, but it is not common on vans; and they also wear out.

I need to dig a bit more about this RABS.
I have no clue why it is called Rear - ABS if it isn't an ABS.
And if it doesn't do any "traction control" then why is it even installed for?
 

IDIBRONCO

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I have no clue why it is called Rear - ABS if it isn't an ABS.
It is an ABS. It monitors the differential speed, not the individual wheel speeds. By monitoring the differential, it keeps both tires from locking up as if they are one. It won't keep just one tire from locking up.
And if it doesn't do any "traction control" then why is it even installed for?
You have to remember that ABS is just that. It's to keep your wheels from locking up while braking. Traction control, on vehicles that have it, uses the ABS system to keep the wheels from spinning during acceleration. They are two different operations. This system can't do that since it doesn't monitor individual wheel speeds. Not to mention that it's just not programmed to act that way.
 

captain720

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Propane heaters can be expensive, but a wood fire isn’t. Even if it’s just nearby or in a fire pit the opportunity to quickly and easily thaw out is a lifesaver, consider using sheet metal to reflect heat torwards where you are working. Even if you have to buy a wood bundle at the quick trip it’s a $6 solution to make working outside intimately better.
 

sieg01

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It is an ABS. It monitors the differential speed, not the individual wheel speeds. By monitoring the differential, it keeps both tires from locking up as if they are one. It won't keep just one tire from locking up.

Thanks!
It made "click" in my head and I got it now!

Since one of the wheels is locking up when breaking, means, that the R-ABS is out of function.

Now I have to address this problem - whenever I have patience to do it.

You have to remember that ABS is just that. It's to keep your wheels from locking up while braking. Traction control, on vehicles that have it, uses the ABS system to keep the wheels from spinning during acceleration. They are two different operations. This system can't do that since it doesn't monitor individual wheel speeds. Not to mention that it's just not programmed to act that way.

And another Thanks! :)
 

sieg01

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Propane heaters can be expensive, but a wood fire isn’t. Even if it’s just nearby or in a fire pit the opportunity to quickly and easily thaw out is a lifesaver, consider using sheet metal to reflect heat torwards where you are working. Even if you have to buy a wood bundle at the quick trip it’s a $6 solution to make working outside intimately better.

Thanks for your motivating words and explanation.

Last year I bought a dutch military multi-oil burner. @ least it was advertised as such.
But it doesn't work with WVO but only with low viscosity liquids. And I don't want to test it with WMO, as I don't want to clean the burning chamber after the winter. ;)
 

IDIBRONCO

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Last year I bought a dutch military multi-oil burner. @ least it was advertised as such.
But it doesn't work with WVO but only with low viscosity liquids.
Maybe this means that it works off of diesel fuel, aviation fuel, etc? That's what I think of when I see "military" and "multi fuel" used to describe something. If it won't work on WVO, I don't see any need to try WMO because that won't work either.
 

sieg01

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Maybe this means that it works off of diesel fuel, aviation fuel, etc?
Yep.
If it won't work on WVO, I don't see any need to try WMO because that won't work either.
It may work with warm/pre-heated WMO. But I don't want to clean the burning chamber every spring time...

WVO needs 160°C that it may start burning. This "multi-oil" burner may not even reach that temperature :D
 

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