First start after swap..Sealing water pump and bolts

The 3/16” is perfect. I wouldn’t think you would lose that much atf removing a radiator..... Did you pinch off the lines or just let them leak?

When you first start it, immediately check fluid even when it’s cold, if memory serves me right, fluid should be on the bottom of the stick when cold.

I am sure you know, the “normal” range is a pint vs an oil dipstick where it’s a quart.

Based on your descriptions, I’d be tempted to put a half quart in before I even start it.

Cant Write said:

an oil dipstick where it’s a quart.

Click to expand...

I don't remember on vans, but on trucks, it's two quarts.

I added maybe a pint or so before starting in the beginning...a small Lucas bottle with the bottom cut off.

Should I check the level with the truck turned off? Or does it need to be in neutral first?

@IDIBRONCO thanks for correcting me!!! I was defaulting back to my T400 dipstick in my memory.

I would think the van is the same as pickups. I just learned something!!

@94turbocrewcab-lb upload a photo of your dipstick.

You know there’s fluid in the trans, I would start it on level ground and in P. Check the fluid, if low for a cold trans, add some fluid. Run through gears while sitting there. Check again and run this cycle till you think you have a good fluid level on a cold trans. Then go for a drive and warm up the trans and check again

If on your drive it delays in shifting, or hunts, pull over and add another pint, then continue.

I took the truck for a ride today..just a few miles. Ran fine and shifted ok..I whipped the stick off and tested in park...came out covered again...so I’m assuming it’s full.

Now I had my mechanic friend came over today he helped me set the motor with his service truck a while back and first time sees it running. First he says it sounds good, then i point out the light smoke at idle and the slight knocking noise. He then agrees it’s probably fuel related and to just replace them all and swap my pump from the last motor...so we’re all on the same page..but he also said..of handed it sounds like a skip almost..but then he said maybe more of a fuel knock..can you get it mixed up? I figured I’d notice a skip easily but maybe not..I was going to put a gear reduced starter in but didn’t so I can’t crank it fast enough to hear it I don’t think.

Howdy, so I’ve just drained my coolant and pulled my radiator to have it resoldered. The pressure test didn’t find it I guess. Shop said it’ll be an hour or so.

So anyways, my water pump needed the rtv bolts to be sealed and I thought I had a weeping leak on the top of the pump. I went to pull the bolts to reseal and they were finger tight. Could this be my only issue? I know I need to rtv the bolts but should I just try snugging it all up and reinstalling everything?

I made sure to have a perfectly cleaned up front cover and a brand new pump. I coated both sides of the gasket with black rtv and snugged them up. I did the snug/let dry/snug again..I’m thinking I was tired and missed these two bolts.

So pull it and reseal again or just snug and seal the bolts?

Snug the bolts, wouldn't hurt to try and monitor it.

You can also check the square plug and the heater hose fitting on top of the water pump. Some dummy (not going to mention my name) forgot to tighten the heater hose fitting on top of my water pump one time and it took me a while to figure out why it was leaking.

Yep I’ll just snug up the bolts..I did a good job installing the seal and gasket. I really didn’t want to do this again.

Also I think I found my injector issue. The rear drivers injector was loose and had a massive deformed copper washer installed and then I figured I should check the next one..smaller washer but came out in two pieces and was all covered in burned up oil/exhaust gases..so I’ve clearly got to just replace them all. I know the drill only a few vendors to order from.

I’ve been screwing with this thing for a year now..helps to have extra vehicles.

If you're not sure where it's coming from, once I found UV dye and a cheap UV flashlight on Amazon I never went back. Throw the dye in and go hunting with the flashlight at night. It'll light up the problem like a Christmas tree!

If you know it's from the top of the WP the just snug it up and run it. Not much else to do at this point. It's either a leaker or not, and if bolts are tight and still leaks you get to do it over again.

It’s for sure leaking right in the top of the pump. I took the 4 out and put a nice coating of rtv all over the bolt threads. Reinstalled and snugged all the bolts up.