Fuel line help

Lumberjackchuck

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so my fuel lines are rusted out and leaking. The fuel tanks were too and I already got the replacement polyethylene ones with new pickup tubes and shower heads etc.

Anyway I’d like to replace all the fuel lines. I think I’d get a flexible nylon, but my question is how are you supposed to join the nylon with a hard line like this in the picture?

Bubble flare the hard line and slip the nylon over it? I don’t see a hose clamp or anything.

Will the nylon go over the tube if I bubble flare it? The hard line is 3/8” OD, if I get 3/8” ID nylon to go over it will that work?

Anyone replace fuel lines on these engines?
 

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TygreII

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Those are rubber coated plastic lines. Thats why they hold so well. Once you disterb them, you have to replace. At least thats what happened to me.
 

Nero

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I spliced several together on my dad's crew cab to extend a standard cab fuel line to a crew cab, has been holding up since. Just used regular rubber with clamps. I know it's not permanent, but it'll probably be 5+yrs before they dry rot.
 

ROCK HARVEY

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If you want to replace everything, it might be easier to go to a 6an and/or 8an system. You can buy hose and fittings anywhere, and they lend themselves well to custom setups.

You can also buy nylon fuel line and push-lock style connectors for it, but I don’t know if it would work with a nylon/steel junction like the picture.
 

Olds64

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I'm in the process of replacing the nylon fuel line in my Bullnose truck. FWIW, I used steel braided 6AN hose and a hose clamp over the nylon fuel lines in the past. Unfortunately, it leaked on me. Now I'm going to make sure the nylon fuel line has a hose barb in it if I mate it to rubber hose with a clamp.

Just know that the nylon fuel line is a PITA to work with. Even if you get the Dorman 800-301 assembly tool. Also, a heat gun is required. Hot water or a hair dryer won't work.
 

Lumberjackchuck

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I'm in the process of replacing the nylon fuel line in my Bullnose truck. FWIW, I used steel braided 6AN hose and a hose clamp over the nylon fuel lines in the past. Unfortunately, it leaked on me. Now I'm going to make sure the nylon fuel line has a hose barb in it if I mate it to rubber hose with a clamp.

Just know that the nylon fuel line is a PITA to work with. Even if you get the Dorman 800-301 assembly tool. Also, a heat gun is required. Hot water or a hair dryer won't work.
I bit the bullet an decided to go with 6AN stuff.

I’m going to make 6AN whips down to the frame rails from the fuel tanks, convert to stainless hard line, replace fuel selector valve, and convert to Facet Duralift pump and delete the mechanical one.

I also got the kit to replace the return lines on the injectors. My goal is to just hit this all at once so I don’t have to worry about the fuel system for a little bit.
 

Old Goat

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I have a folder with a ton of how to work with, splice together etc... nylon Fuel Line.
Here are a few



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Instead of using Stainless Steal why not go with the Copper/Nickle, much easier to work with, and corrosion resistant. It`s used for brake line also.
here pick your favorite one...


A fe years back I replaced the rear 19 gal tank for a 38 gal tank. new senders rear and front tank and a new (market is flooded with chicom knock off FSV) FSV for $50. All worked well for a while. I ran mostly off the rear tank, but once in a while go to the Front.
The valve started to act up a bit, so just used the rear tank.
Then one day last spring flipped the switch to see if it would work....long story... got stuck pulling from rear, and returning to front tank. then eventually over flowing and creating a puddle under the truck. not good at $4 a gallon.

After much fiddling around with trying to splice the plastic line etc.... Finally the rear line goes straight to the engine, and return goes back to rear.
I had trouble with some of the Dorman quick splices leaking.

Decide to use front tank for a transfer tank. Mounted a Facett for the transfer pump.
Rubber hose to Facett, then rubber hose to the rear Fill tube. Drilled a hole in it`s side, to where a 3/8" brass barbed/threaded fitting would screw into the hole and JB Welded it.

Gave the FSV the deep 6, the 2 wires from the senders, ( one blue/yellow, and one yellow/Blue) connected them to a Weather Pack plug.
(Y/B rear tank)
There is a Yellow/white that goes to dash switch and to the gauge. Connected it to the Y/B. Now have a working gauge.

The B/Y wire from the front tank, Iam working on how to run it up to the Inst. Cluster. thinking of replacing the inop Amp meter for another Fuel gauge. Just need to figure out the wireing in the 18 pin plug plus the traces on the cluster.

The Factory system is a simple system when you think about it, until the FSV causes the big problems.



Goat
 

IDIBRONCO

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convert to Facet Duralift pump
That's probably not a good idea. The quality of the Facets has really gone down in the last few years. They are pretty poor items these days. They used to have good quality, but not any more.
I've only heard good things about the Facet pumps.
You need to keep up on the latest info. See my post right above.
 

Olds64

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That's a bummer that the Facet fuel pumps have questionable quality now. I haven't switched over to an electric fuel pump yet.

When I bought my truck the PO had a parts store cheapie electric fuel pump in it. I replaced it with a parts store mechanical fuel pump. Actually, that mechanical fuel pump failed and started to pump diesel into the crankcase. Good thing I caught it before the engine was damaged.

We'll see if I go to an electric fuel pump and what brand I get. Definitely not using the Chinesium one the PO had on the truck.
 

Old Goat

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In post #8 mentioned I mounted the Facet Pump for the transfer pump
to send fuel from front tank to rear.
Never did hard wire it, but connected a jumper to see how the fuel went
into the fill tube. Worked great, only used it for a minute.
Couple months ago, due to my procrastinating, I didn`t full the rear tank
and was dangerously low on fuel. Hooked up my jumper wire to the Facet
and let her rip, was really moving the fuel. Came back about 10min later,
and the pump was not pumping. Figured it ran out of fuel and shut off.

Later filled the front tank, (don`t remember how much it took).
Few days later checked pump with a jumper, and the pump is dead.
Bought the pump from Pegases Racing, and talked to tech support.
He mentioned they are a weak pump, (shouldn`t be, use them on 18 wheeler Refregeration trailers)
So I ordered one of the Facet small cube pumps, be here next week. Read the reviews on the various model pumps, and one guy used the one I ordered as a transfer pump and had good results.

Im thinking of using a Hobbs switch to turn it off when the pressure drops, just need to figure out how to wire it in.

Goat
 
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