Starting an 093 turbo install on my 91 F350

So I picked up a used 093 turbo, downpipe, and other related parts. Not using a stock air filter- didn't come with one. I'm getting ready to dive into it and I need to know info going in so I don't have to take things apart twice.
I appreciate any info. Tips or tricks( if any), so I don't spend a month on this.
It looks like GP controller needs to be moved. Passenger side fender well? Which brings me to...
New glow plug harness? If I mount the controller closer somewhere maybe the wires will reach. I don't know.
Fuel return lines. Are the existing ones gonna get baked? Or is the crossover the problem?
The existing rubber(?) covering the soundproofing looks like it's too close to where the turbo will mount. Talking about the stuff on the firewall.
Do I need a new dipstick tube? I run a E4OD. It looks like it's in the way.
Am I going to have to cut or beat the hell out of the firewall to get the pipes to fit?
I checked an old thread and the guy mentioned that he was told to punch holes in the valley pan under the cdr hole. Is this correct?
Anyone ever use Justin's stainless down pipe for the exhaust? JF sent one with the turbo but it's short and I don't have access or do I know anyone who could bend exhaust pipe for me. It seems pricey but if it cuts downtime I'll consider it. Plus it's 3 inch and I think I can find a 3 to 4 inch connection easy. My exhaust is 4 inch.
The crossover I got was cut, so instead of screwing around welding I picked up a new one with the egt bung welded in already.
Am I missing anything?
And with the pump, how many flats should I turn it up? Was reading it will be under fueled with the turbo, so what is a good starting point.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.I'll get some pics as I go.

quickster said:

It looks like GP controller needs to be moved. Passenger side fender well? Which brings me to...
New glow plug harness? If I mount the controller closer somewhere maybe the wires will reach. I don't know.

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Generally, aftermarket turbo installs didn't move the controller. The Factory Turbo set up had the controller on the passenger's side valve cover (if I'm remembering that right). Will you NEED to move it? No. Would it be better? By far. You may be able to make your own mounting bracket that bolts to the intake. The two holes in the manifold where the stock 093 air cleaner (bottom part) bolts to could be a good place to attach your bracket.

quickster said:

Fuel return lines. Are the existing ones gonna get baked? Or is the crossover the problem?

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Again, most aftermarket turbo installs didn't mess with the return lines either. They and the wiring (for the above question) could/would get crispy if left in the stock location. You can, and probably should add some turbo insulation around and underneath the turbo after it's installed. You can buy universal turbo blankets to wrap around your turbo as well.

quickster said:

The existing rubber(?) covering the soundproofing looks like it's too close to where the turbo will mount. Talking about the stuff on the firewall.

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It probably is. It was close even when it was new and held tightly against the firewall. Turbo insulation (like I mentioned above) may help. If it's not tight against the firewall, you can get it pressed closer to the firewall. What I did with my Blue truck was to take some small, short (I used 1/2" long) self drilling sheet metal screws, put larger washers underneath the heads, and screw them into the firewall to hold the insulation tighter. I had the engine out when I did this, but you'll have a relatively large open space back there before you install the turbo if you want to try something like this. It's also possible that you cab mounts need to be replaced. That may give you some extra room if yours are bad.

quickster said:

Do I need a new dipstick tube? I run a E4OD. It looks like it's in the way.

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Most likely. I don't remember about the 093, but the Factory Turbo trucks did have a different upper dipstick tube. It attaches to a 1/4" stud along the lower part of the passenger's side valvecover. You would remove a bolt and then install the stud (all thread). Use a nut on the factory valve cover hold down, then use another nut to sandwich the tube mounting bracket between the two nuts.

quickster said:

Am I going to have to cut or beat the hell out of the firewall to get the pipes to fit?

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Quite possibly. Especially if your cab mounts are bad. Bad or not, it would probably make the install go easier. A little extra wiggle room here goes a long way.

quickster said:

I checked an old thread and the guy mentioned that he was told to punch holes in the valley pan under the cdr hole. Is this correct?

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The newer ones are supposed to have extra drain holes in them that the older ones didn't have. I would still do this just to be safe. You can use holes, or I would just do one that's probably 3/8" in diameter and never had a problem that way.

quickster said:

And with the pump, how many flats should I turn it up? Was reading it will be under fueled with the turbo, so what is a good starting point.

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Yes, it will be "under fueled". That's not quite accurate since it won't be able to run lean like a gasoline engine can, but it will definitely be able to burn more fuel that your pump is currently giving the injectors. I would go with two flats as a starting point. You'll probably be able to go more than that, but it's a good starting point.
This is my take on your questions. I haven't worked with a turbo for over 20 years now so I may not be 100% right with some of my answers. If I'm not, I'm sure that others will correct me.

Hey Bronco. This is a factory setup. I just don't have the airbox.

I thought I seen a pic with the controller on the valve cover. I'll figure that one out. Going to have to use a catch can I reckon. Don't have an airbox. Read they were restrictive. Is it recommended to use exhaust wrap on the crossover pipe? And the motor is in so it will be fun to put together, not.

I installed an 093 on mine years ago and recall removing a patch of firewall insulation plus making cuts in the pinch welds so they can easily be bent over. I used a powerstroke down pipe and mounted the glow plug controller on the firewall. Also used a slip on heat shield over the wires. It will be at least two flats (likely more) and when you get it setup, the difference is night and day. Prepare yourself for a Big Grin! Highly recommend a pyro, stay below 1200 degrees.

I'm going to need some kind of cover on the vacuum lines that are attached right where the turbo will sit. And I'm looking at a 3 pod pillar for gauges. Water temp, egt, and boost? Or does boost matter with the wastegate.

I did what @catbird7 did as well, but I left my gp module right where it was at the back of the V, no issues yet. I also have a 093 kit. Also didn't mess with the fuel return lines.

Hardest part was torquing the flange bolts from the up pipe to the turbo.

I also did not, and do not recommend punching holes in your valley pan in the old cdr drain hole. I didn't do it, again, no issues yet.

I also didn't punch holes in my 89 under the CDR drain hole. I got a passenger valve cover off ebay or something later on, it's a good setup.

I ran my return lines in front of the intake from the passenger side to keep them cooler. Push-button GP solenoid sat on the rear driver's side of the engine un-tethered(shrouded in plastic) for years until recently I got a white rogers relay and put it on the fender properly.
No matter where you put it, it's easy to just make the wires longer. So figure out a good place first and go from there, you don't need to adjust or change the harness any, just extend all the wires to make it all fit how you like it.

The "rubber" is some kind of high-temp plastic. I know that because I forgot to clearance it from my turbo and noticed one day that it had melted away from the turbine outlet perfectly 1/4" away from it all around...super neat and very glad that didn't cost me an engine fire. Which reminds me that I should carry a fire extinguisher.
Also a cheap turbo blanket does a lot for under hood temps and helps boost, too.

I dunno who said the OE airbox doesn't flow well. They do, it's a good setup. Breathes in all the cold air with a bit of ram effect, to boot. Anywho don't cheap out on the filter. The little parts-house Spectra crap will eventually collapse and before that will ruin your boost. Ask me how I know!

For gauges boost is a great thing to have. It's fun and can also tell you good info. Some people use vac/boost combo gauge to measure idle vacuum so they know when to change the filter. But those are all 30psi so kinda small range for us down near 10psi. I've looked.
Plus someday you'll probably unhook the waste gate. Or at least use the gauge for tuning the gate to where you want it. But it blows open at around 13-14psi even when unhooked. Starts to crack open before that.

I made my own 3" outlet and 3" downpipe so I can't say about Justin's. But you need a 3" outlet to run that DP. The stock downpipe will clear the seam but it's no fun. It's tiny. I highly recommend a 3" setup any way you can get one!

+1 cut and bend cab seam.

There are many tips and tricks but the the two biggest ones I can think of are:
1. Anything related to the up-pipe, do from under the truck with the turbo mounted. You have more room and leverage there. So install the turbo with it's half of the up-pipe installed and then go underneath to jam the second half in. It can be a PITA.
2. The turbo mounting bolts(onto the pedestal) are also a PITA. Someone suggested using studs there instead of bolts and I think that would be great. But either way make sure you get the turbo hat installed and ready to receive the compressor housing before tightening it all down. I made that mistake a few different ways and had a rough time with it. Even said a few things about my truck I had to apologize for later!
Bonus tip: make sure your turbo doesn't need a rebuild BEFORE you install it. I was a turbo ****** and bought a used 093 setup on ebay but it turned out to be all clapped out. I didn't know that. Couldn't push more than 5psi of boost to save my life and it was less powerful than my N/A. That was SUPER frustrating for me. Because of all the oil vapors these suck up you couldn't see the compressor wear from the wheel hitting the housing, but it sure was. A new CHRA solved that and it's been super fun ever since.

Happy wrenching!

Quote" Was reading it will be under fueled with the turbo,"

Not true, my dually with a stock NA pump makes 10 psi boost. Just right for non studded.
You will need a turbo dipstick tube for the trans. IIRC Hypermax has one.
ATS says to cut the firewall insulation. If you dont it will burn.
Here is an install gasket kit.
Here is the injector return kit

typ4 said:

Quote" Was reading it will be under fueled with the turbo,"

Not true, my dually with a stock NA pump makes 10 psi boost. Just right for non studded.
You will need a turbo dipstick tube for the trans. IIRC Hypermax has one.
ATS says to cut the firewall insulation. If you dont it will burn.
Here is an install gasket kit.

Install Kit for Factory Turbo

russrepair.com

Here is the injector return kit

Factory Turbo or ATS 093 Injector Install Kit

russrepair.com

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You got a lot of advice in this thread and I want to X2 you should buy the ATS 093 style injector return kit plus cut the firewall insulation out and beat it. After beating it I put thermal shield.

typ4 said:

Here is the injector return kit

Factory Turbo or ATS 093 Injector Install Kit

russrepair.com

Click to expand...

Yes I did forget to mention something like this. It really makes a big difference in the life of your return lines.

when your factory/093 up pipe leaks like a siv,
ive got the answer.

IDIoit said:

when your factory/093 up pipe leaks like a siv,
ive got the answer.

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The up pipe I have is locked together. I don't want to mess with it. we will see if it stays together as I go along. If I have problems with it I'll keep you in mind. Going to start pulling the exhaust off today. Need to find some kroil first, or something similar. Russ, I'll be ordering the turbo return lines today. Also found turbo blankets on amazon.

So I cut out the rubber and soundproofing, and now it looks like I'll have room for everything. I seen a couple pics where the gp controller stays in it's original place. I guess I could get some thermal shielding to protect it. The way my wiring harness loops around, and with all the wiring inside besides the gp wires, I would save myself a bunch of time if I just shield it. Everything is tucked in tight and I would have to tear it apart to move it. I'm definitly going to get the turbo return line kit. That back crossover line looks like it will just cook.
So I seen a few pics of guys running aftermarket oil feed line to the turbo. I have the stock hard pipe, but it has olives, correct? Is the stock pipe prone to leaks? And if I were to go to a flex oil feed would I just plumb it to the oil sensor hole or is there a better place to run it from? Plus if I did that I guess I would have to tee it there so I could still use the oil sensor, correct?

If I remember, the pressure sending relocates to the turbo. Think I took some photos, see if I can find them and repost on this thread.