Plug Needed!

HammerDown

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Hey buds, anyone have an extra male and female plug that resides on the passenger fenderwell or known a off the shelf part number that will substitute?
Corrosion issue that I can clean up but, it cracked when trying to seperate the two halves.
Thanks for any feedback!
 

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david85

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This will happen to all IDI wiring harnesses eventually. Usually the heavy orange wires start to overheat and melt the connector. If the rest of the wires are still good, I would just permanently splice the two orange wires around the connector and call it good.

If the rest of the wires are not good, you can get a multi-pin weatherpack connector for the smaller wires...or just splice everything permanently.
 

Nero

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I did exactly this as well, the orange (in my case yellow) wires were so corroded my glow plugs quit working. Still works fine to this day.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Same story here as the two above. Sorry I don't know of a replacement connector. Would be nice to have a replacement 12(?)-wire connector pigtail to splice in and make it work like it should though.
 

HammerDown

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Thanks for the feedback... so I put the existing plug back together, all cleaned up with WD40 and seemed to make a good connection, truck started as usual and this morning.... cranking but no start.
Is anything in that big plug connection directly related to the fuel shutoff ontop of the IP?
 
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HammerDown

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Same story here as the two above. Sorry I don't know of a replacement connector. Would be nice to have a replacement 12(?)-wire connector pigtail to splice in and make it work like it should though.
I try to keep things as original as possible.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Those are a pretty good idea. Why didn't someone think of that before? As someone who used to R&R these engines for a living, I absolutely hate it when someone splices the two glow plug wirs together. It's much easier to remove the harness if you can just unplug it.
Is anything in that big plug connection directly related to the fuel shutoff ontop of the IP?
Yes there is. All of the engine wiring comes through that plug so the power for the shut off has to come through there too. If someone has modified the wiring from stock, then it's hard to tell where that power comes from.
 

franklin2

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Thanks for the feedback... so I put the existing plug back together, all cleaned up with WD40 and seemed to make a good connection, truck started as usual and this morning.... cranking but no start.
Is anything in that big plug connection directly related to the fuel shutoff ontop of the IP?
Like they said in the previous posts, the two large fat wires are the problem wires. And they power the glowplugs. No glowplugs mean no start when the engine is cold.

Sometimes things that are original are inferior. You need to take and cut the two large wires so you have 4 ends. Then use the plug of your choice to connect them. I just used 4 crimp ring connectors, and then used little bolts with nuts to connect them together.

You will have to do something different, the factory messed up on this one.
 

Old Goat

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Previous owner permanently spliced all those wires on my truck. Eventually I plan to buy this for the glow plug wires (the yellow 10 gauge ones):


And this for the rest of the wires:


It’s on the “to-do” list, but who knows when I’ll get around to it!

Iam thinking I will order the plugs you listed, and do the repair as preventative maintenance....before I have a problem.

I haven`t really looked at the plug to see what condition it is in. It is an 86 truck, and if original and has worked all these years, guess that is pretty good service.
Been a Cali truck guess that helped??? Now a Nevada truck, and with the snow etc...NDOT does use that brine solution when there is a threat of freezing and snow.


Goat
 

IDIBRONCO

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I haven`t really looked at the plug to see what condition it is in. It is an 86 truck, and if original and has worked all these years, guess that is pretty good service.
Been a Cali truck guess that helped??? Now a Nevada truck, and with the snow etc...NDOT does use that brine solution when there is a threat of freezing and snow.
Mine still works fine on my Blue Truck. A few years back, while I was (unvoluntarily) overhauling my engine, I sprayed both side of the plug with WD-40. Then I plugged and unplugged it probably 12 times. After that, I put some dielectric grease on the pins before I plugged it back in for the final time. I felt that, since it was still in good shape, that would help keep it that way.
 

ROCK HARVEY

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In addition to replacing the plug for the 2 glow plug wires, I plan to replace the 10 gauge wires with something heavier. Those plugs I posted can take up to a 6 gauge, and the glow plugs pull a lot of amps.
 

HammerDown

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Like they said in the previous posts, the two large fat wires are the problem wires. And they power the glowplugs. No glowplugs mean no start when the engine is cold.

Sometimes things that are original are inferior. You need to take and cut the two large wires so you have 4 ends. Then use the plug of your choice to connect them. I just used 4 crimp ring connectors, and then used little bolts with nuts to connect them together.

You will have to do something different, the factory messed up on this one.
Thanks for the info: real quick, the plud was untouched since the truck was manufactured and worked prior to me taking it apart.
So, yesterday after the no start (and I did have GP burn-thought the FSS went bad) I pulled the plug apart, sprayed WD40 and used a little brass brush and compressed air to blow it all out. But it together and she fired right up!
What do you think about proper sized, insulated push/pull-bullet type connectors for those bigger wires? They usually make a strong connection and pull apart if needed. It would be the same type of original connector minus the actual plastic case.
 

franklin2

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Thanks for the info: real quick, the plud was untouched since the truck was manufactured and worked prior to me taking it apart.
So, yesterday after the no start (and I did have GP burn-thought the FSS went bad) I pulled the plug apart, sprayed WD40 and used a little brass brush and compressed air to blow it all out. But it together and she fired right up!
What do you think about proper sized, insulated push/pull-bullet type connectors for those bigger wires? They usually make a strong connection and pull apart if needed. It would be the same type of original connector minus the actual plastic case.
Any decent sized connector would work. The glowplug wires can pull way over 100 amps when they are glowing, so those large wire connections are under a lot of strain. Any heat created at the connection means voltage drop, which means less power to the glowplugs.

I do like some sort of disconnection means for those wires. If you ever have to do any engine work, like pulling the pass side valve cover off, it's nice to be able to unplug all those wires and move them out of the way.

One day you may have a problem with your running lights not working. Another common failure at the headlight switch, same scenario; Too much load on one connection which eventually melts the tan wire feeding the running lights.
 

Black dawg

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I used to just repair those wires bypassing the plug, or adding connectors to them, but any more, I just add a small gauge battery cable bypassing all of it and straight to the GPC.
 
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