Brake issue

Austin86250

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So I got an 88 f350 Dana 60 sterling 10.25 I replaced
All brakes
Soft caliper lines
Wheel cylinders
Hydraulic abs modual
Master cylinder
The brakes work great but only at the very bottom of the pedal like the upper 80% is dead I’m so lost can anybody help I’m not too educated on abs trucks
 

hacked89

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Pushrod needing adjustment or air in system would be the two I would start with. Did you verify and adjust the pushrod? How did you bleed the brakes?

Edit: I was thinking you replaced the booster too first time I read it which is why I mentioned pushrod
 

Austin86250

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Pushrod needing adjustment or air in system would be the two I would start with. Did you verify and adjust the pushrod? How did you bleed the brakes?

Edit: I was thinking you replaced the booster too first time I read it which is why I mentioned pushrod
Well I’m all ears with double checking push rod adjustment but I’m not sure how too
I was bleeding it using the standard 2 person on cracking bleeder one on pedal did that 3 times for all four corners and abs modual and it was all clear no bubbles
 

hacked89

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Also it’s a bit tough getting all the air out with the two person method but if you’re confident you’re good then no further comments on that
 

hacked89

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The only other thing that would cause soft pedal really is the MC going bad but you replaced it
 

franklin2

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The most common reason for a low pedal if everything else is correct and no air in the lines, is the rear brake adjustment.

Make sure the parking brake is off and the cables are not too tight.

Go back there after you jack the rear up and turn the back tires one at a time while adjusting the brake adjuster. Adjust the brake till you can't hardley move the tire. Then back it off till you can move the tire, but there is still a little bit of rubbing.

Do both sides. See what you have for pedal then. If it's good, then adjust your parking brake if you need to.
 

Austin86250

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What would be a better way to get air out? I have a vacuum sucker do dad from when I bled my clutch
 

franklin2

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Never had the sucker work for me very well. It always sucked air around the threads of the bleeder screw. Nothing beats getting the wife out there to press on the pedal while I operate the bleeders and keep the reservoir full.

Do you have a helper? And they had to follow instructions. Pump the pedal and then hold it, you open the bleeder and then close it, and then the lift the pedal and pump it again and then hold it, you open the bleeder and then close it. Repeat.

It takes a lot to bleed the rear brakes and it's easy to run out of fluid in the reservoir so stop once in awhile and check it.
 

hacked89

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order of worst to best:
Vacuum bleeder -> 2nd person -> Power bleeder

The power bleeder blows away a 2nd person but if you don’t want to buy one just keep on going like Franklin said.
 

franklin2

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Another thing to check since you redid the whole thing. Make sure all your bleeders are positioned on top. If you get the calipers mixed up side to side, the bleeder will be on the bottom. You will never get the air out. Check the rear wheel cylinders also, make sure the bleeder is above the supply line. I am not sure if you can get them mixed up on these trucks, but I did get them mixed up on a buick regal once, and I bled and bled and never could get the air out. I suddenly realized what I had done, swapped the wheel cylinders side to side and it worked fine after that.
 

Duke57

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Are the fronts grabbing along with the rear brakes when you reach the end of master cylinder travel or only rear brakes?
 

Austin86250

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Kinda embarrassing but the only issue was the way I was bleeding I was just pressing down then crack bleeder tried pump pump pump hold crack the bleeder and Success
 

Rondo

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I purchased a pressure blender. No air around the threads and no sopping to refill the master cylinder.
 

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