My options, and your opinions.

Jesus Freak

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Well, pulled the heads off my turbo 7.3 and I got 7 burned pistons. Cylinder walls look fine no gouges or scoring. So here's my deal, I got two 7.3s and a 6.9 and I need an engine on a budget, so I'll discribe my ideas and y'all please chime in with your opinion. Ultimately Im trying to get a very useable engine together to buy me time to "do it right". I do prefer the 6.9, but I have a IDIT block as well, so there's a "give and take" of what's the best.

First the 7.3s.
I have a cavitated 7.3n/a that I haven't opened up yet but it should have a good set of pistons in there. And then I have my turbo block that's fine except melted pistons. In summery the plan would be to combine the two and make one. I'm not going to go back with a turbo, ultimate simplicity is the goal.

Second is the 6.9
It's the motor that was in my truck when I got it. It was a turbo charged "dealers diesel" that's bored over .030. The turbo had disentigated and they shut it off and it didn't crank up again until I got it and made it N/A. I drove it for almost 2 years before the little bit of stuff that sucked into the engine ate a hole past the rings in #8. The cylinder walls don't have any damage, but I need 2 .030 pistons for a 6.9 with rings. And these are rare in the new world maybe some of you have a couple used one I could buy.

The "wild card" 7.3
I did some "horse trading" with a guy a while back for a 7.3 that's supposed to be legit........its not here, so it's not an option, but it might be, eventually.

My fantasy;
I'd like to come up with a couple pistons for the 6.9 and run it in my truck. Then I'd like to have my turbo block machined and stuff so as to do a slow build on it and have it for when ever I need another engine.

Thanks for any advice or criticism concerning this in advance. Proverbs 24:6!
 

IDIBRONCO

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You have a complicated decision to make here. That's my first opinion.
If you have the time to wait, I'd recommend getting the wild card 7.3 and pulling off the heads and oil pan to check it out. It may be a decent runner.
If the wild card 7.3 isn't in running shape, then you can put the N/A internals in the Turbo block to have a runner. Then you could build up the wild card 7.3 engine. Since the only difference between the Turbo and N/A blocks is the port for the turbo oil feed line, I see no reason to feel that you have to build the Turbo block up "right".
 

Jesus Freak

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You have a complicated decision to make here. That's my first opinion.
If you have the time to wait, I'd recommend getting the wild card 7.3 and pulling off the heads and oil pan to check it out. It may be a decent runner.
If the wild card 7.3 isn't in running shape, then you can put the N/A internals in the Turbo block to have a runner. Then you could build up the wild card 7.3 engine. Since the only difference between the Turbo and N/A blocks is the port for the turbo oil feed line, I see no reason to feel that you have to build the Turbo block up "right".
It really is a complicated decision. My concern about the wild card is might not manifest. I'm going to hit him up in a week and see if I can get it.
You think the 6.9 is a no go?
Thanks for chiming in!
 

Jesus Freak

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No. I just think that you might have trouble finding a pair of good, .030 pistons and rings. Then again, I could be wrong on that. Why don't you try putting a post about it in Marketplace?
I will. I was going to get a concensus first.
There's 20 and 40 over but 30 doesn't exist as far as I've seen.
 

Jesus Freak

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What is this piston?

For one thing, that piston is expensive. But you found it, I've googled it to death and couldn't find anything. That's why I started the thread! As my need to make a decision comes to a head that might be an option. And really I kinda have a bent towards the 6.9. Thanks for finding that @franklin2
 
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Austin86250

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Can you just bore a 6.9 into a 7.3 or is there complications in that process?
 

IDIBRONCO

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The thing to watch for with Sil-vo-lite pistons is that they had issues with the snap rings at one time. They were made out of material that was too soft. because of that, they would eventually lose tension, break, and then fall out of the wrist pin bore. The the wrist pin would walk out and contact the cylinder wall. That led to a mixture of oil, coolant, and metal parts in the oil pan and, often, an air cooled crankcase too.
That said, I seem to recall those being made/sold in a period from early 1994-mid 1995. I'm running a set that was made in 2001 and haven't had any issues. I also don't expect to have any either. If you can confirm that they were made in the really late 90's or early 2000's, I wouldn't be afraid to run them. Another piece of advice: don't bother trying to contact Sil-vo-lite and ask them either. Nobody working there has any clue about this issue.
 

FrozenMerc

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My $0.02, and it probably isn't worth that.

Build the engine you want now, build it right the first time, and be done with it. I understand the funds may not be there, or other complications may arise. However, find a way to make it happen. The older I get, the more of a rip the band-aid off now type of person I have become. You just don't know what monkey wrenches are going to be thrown into your best laid plans next week, month, year. Plus, unless the Fed throws us into a deflationary spiral, ala Japan in the 90's, it will only cost more and more to build the motor you want now, later on down the line.
 

ROCK HARVEY

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I’m with Bronco, if the wildcard 7.3 is in running condition I’d swap it in. If it’s no good or you can’t get your hands on it, then the next steps probably depend on how long you can afford to have your truck off the road.
 

94turbocrewcab-lb

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You paying the fuel to get there and back?

I lost my motor in April. I might just be getting back in next week. It’s a wild card idit with 158k but I had it running while chained up.
 
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