ATS 088 to 093 upgrade

Black dawg

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Looking at your pictures I see you used the factory 093 air box. I wonder if that being bolted to the intake is producing the increase in noise you are hearing. Had a 6.2/banks kit that had this "plenum" to adapt the boost pipe to the intake, It was amazing how much that piece of aluminum amplified the engine noise.
 

david85

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Looking at your pictures I see you used the factory 093 air box. I wonder if that being bolted to the intake is producing the increase in noise you are hearing. Had a 6.2/banks kit that had this "plenum" to adapt the boost pipe to the intake, It was amazing how much that piece of aluminum amplified the engine noise.
Good point! I hadn't thought about that. Since it's most noticeable at idle I could test that fairly easily at home.
 

david85

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Well, I made it almost a week before I unplugged the wastegate hose. Looks like I can hit 15 PSI in the higher gears. And that's without wiring the wastegate shut. Power difference wasn't crazy and I couldn't really tell if there was much smoke since I was driving in the rain and going way faster than I should be.

My feeling is that 10 PSI should be about right with the current setup.
 

typ4

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I just read through your entire post you probably would have been time and effort ahead to just order one of my oil line kits.
 

david85

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Yup, that probably would have been better. The turbo line I got from Amazon seems to work though.

I have the Pyrometer installed now so the wastegate is unplugged and 15 PSI is the new limit for now. Still a hint of smoke at max power but completely clean for normal driving.
 

IDIBRONCO

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If you're only getting a hint of smoke at max power (full throttle?) then you're just fine.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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That's great to hear, all positive updates. 5 psi @1600rpm is nuts! Holy low RPM boost, Batman! Nice work, that up pipe mod is clearly paying itself off.

You can push these turbos up over 15 psi with enough fuel, but they start to fall off the [turbo]map over like 22psi @2600 rpm I think. Don't quote me on that but the point is that they aren't very efficient up at those levels. These aren't the most efficient in the first place. Someday I'll get a drop-in upgrade and a 90cc pump. Can't imagine doing much more than that myself.

But as for charge air cooling-- the air-to-water setups are compact, and I'm sure you could fit that under the hood. I've seen a few good ones around here and FTE and they perform just as well. Better, in some cases.
 

david85

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I was a bit leery of water to air intercoolers because of the "heat soak" issue mentioned in another thread. Then I revisited that thread and saw that it wasn't much of an issue. It is more complex but I suppose a failed pump wouldn't be catastrophic.
 

Wise Mule

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It Is always good to have lower air charge temperature however with lower pressure turbos an inter cooler is not always needed except for pulling heavy loads or a steep grade. Before you go with an inter cooler you really need an EGT gauge installed to really know where the heat range is.Try an AEM water/methanol injection system. I had a similar space restriction with my ‘97 Suburban 6.5T. It just was not feasible to run the piping and I considered the water cooled inter cooler with a stand alone water pump and radiator. The AEM solved the problem. With the EGT gauge I can set the kick in and out pressure. Plus the extra power and carbon cleaning from the water/methanol is a bonus.
 

david85

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The new EGT gauge responds pretty quickly and so far it hasn't hit 1100 degrees. However, the truck was empty and the hills are relatively short in my area. I'm pretty sold on the idea of an intercooler, just not sure which way to go yet.

The radiator can be shifted toward the engine by at least 1" without hacking the core support, and I think the AC condenser can also be shifted back closer to the radiator by roughly 2", if the rad is moved. Another option is to simply make a custom grille out of aluminum that isn't as deep as the stock one. Then again, I do like the idea of water injection as well.

Anything I do to cool the charge air would also help the engine fully digest the fuel it's getting at the top end.

Decisions, decisions...
 

Black dawg

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What mpg do you get with this set up, and any better with the wastegated turbo?
 

Nero

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I'm interested to see if and what intercooler kit you go with, I'd love to have one, but the problem I run into is I have V belt with AC, and seems like all kits I've found requires either serpentine belt layout, or delete the AC, which isn't an option for me.
 

david85

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What mpg do you get with this set up, and any better with the wastegated turbo?
I haven't been keeping good track of it lately. The truck has been my daily for the last several years and a 7min commute in city driving is never going to get good results because it barely reaches operating temperature by the time I get to work. And then on the weekends I'd be exploring on the dirt roads, so still getting poor MPGs. The short daily driving cycle is a big reason why I switched to synthetic oil.

13-15 MPG is about what I was getting.

I'm interested to see if and what intercooler kit you go with, I'd love to have one, but the problem I run into is I have V belt with AC, and seems like all kits I've found requires either serpentine belt layout, or delete the AC, which isn't an option for me.

V-belt setup here too. I have some older piping from a 6.0 intercooler that might help as a starting point. Just have to see how it can be routed. Even if I go with a water cooler, I want to try and keep the engine bay as clear as possible.
 

Nero

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Did some quick Google fu, this looks like a satisfying option.... Even says works with v belt setups.

 

The_Josh_Bear

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I'm interested to see if and what intercooler kit you go with, I'd love to have one, but the problem I run into is I have V belt with AC, and seems like all kits I've found requires either serpentine belt layout, or delete the AC, which isn't an option for me.
Are you a bull nose also?
 
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