96 First Powerstroke

captain720

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It turns out this rig doesn’t have glow plugs that work either! So I have two diesels with not really working glowplugs, but parts are already on order for the other one.

Yes I plan to do the valve cover gaskets at the same time.
 

greenskeeper

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It turns out this rig doesn’t have glow plugs that work either! So I have two diesels with not really working glowplugs, but parts are already on order for the other one.

Yes I plan to do the valve cover gaskets at the same time.
OEM for anything engine related, especially UVCH. Personally if they look good when doing the glow plugs, I would leave well enough alone.
 

u2slow

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Back when I had a PSD, I ended up metering out the UVC harnesses. They were fine for continuity and were carrying gp current, so I let them be.
 

greenskeeper

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Back when I had a PSD, I ended up metering out the UVC harnesses. They were fine for continuity and were carrying gp current, so I let them be.
Majority of the time the harnes fails at the connection at the valve cover gasket...it loosens and then draws too many amps and melts the harness at the connector then the glow plugs are energized. 50 cent mod can help prevent that on certain model years.
 

u2slow

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It's easy to check current draw with an amp clamp. Can't draw extra amps unless there's a short. A high-resistance connection OTOH, can make extra heat. The connector can be inspected, cleaned, even shoot some anti-corrosion spray in there.

I tend not to replace things like that unless they have failed or visibly deteriorated.
 

captain720

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My third brake light is out, which means it can’t drive because it’s locking the shift cylinder solonoid the pedal switch does work and there is power at it.
 

captain720

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The wire was broken inside the harness above the brake light sensor. So I fixed that and replaced my shift tube and shifter. Now my brake lights work and the torque converter is fixed.
 

captain720

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Turns out the bulk of my hard starting problems is batteries, they were fully charged and I left them unplugged just sitting in the truck for 2 weeks as I suspected it had a draw and they were giving me 12 volts but no amps would barely crank and quickly would do nothing but they still had voltage. Load tested to one amp. The last owner put them in in 7-21 I threw the two 850 cca deka batteries from the IDI and it fired off after a little cranking from the fuel drain back. I have never liked Napa batteries and these are only a year old and seem to be totally done. I’m gonna trickle them all night and try to get a little more out of them but they are only 750s and I would much rather have 850s.
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captain720

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Well it was powerstroke day here at captains_garage so I swapped the two 750 AGMs for two 850 lead acids and she cranks like it’s the end of time. One of the AGMs had 80 CCA and the other 700 CCA.
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I have a myriad of fuel issues to sort out the first was the fuel pressure sensor leaking so I replaced that.
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I had no heat at all so I installed a new blower motor and that fixed that.
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Now I just need a rubber fuel line kit, I think that’s the source of more leaks.
 

greenskeeper

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There is no "fuel pressure sensor", rather that is a dummy sensor that will illuminate the "fuel filter restriction" light on the dash. You can eliminate that and a lot of other leak points on the fuel bowl that in actuality aren't needed.
 

captain720

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I am working on fixing my fuel leaks and so I replaced rubber lines today.
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I ordered a nice minty kit and one of the brand new blue high pressure lines split on me! So I had to use regular high pressure line.
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lotzagoodstuff

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The location of the fuel pump and fuel bowls on the first Gen PSDs really is not ideal from a service standpoint.

Do some Googling, you will find that the OBS Powerstroke fuel bowls are notorious for leaking. I had a stubborn fuel leak where everything was dry while idling, but as soon as a test drive, the bottom of the bowl was wet. One of the sensors leaked through the body and out the electrical plug, but only at speed. My suggestion is to plug everything you don’t need, rebuild the fuel drain valve but do not ever touch it again. If you have to change the fuel filter, remove the top carefully and use a Turkey baster to remove a little fuel to swap the filter element.

And while you are in there, delete the fuel heater element in the bowl before it comes loose, grounds and strands you.
 

greenskeeper

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JB weld the bottom of the fuel bowl while you're in there removing that useless fuel bowl heater
 

captain720

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Alright updates! I currently do not have a leak that causes a loss of fuel prime overnight that is fixed, there is something that is still very slightly weeping under usage but it is not an urgent problem. When I park it inside it fires instantly it is amazing quickest starting 7.3 I have ever witnessed. I tested my glow plugs and I have at least 3 bad ones I only bothered to test 6 as that was enough to verify I need to do them all. Currently I have not really been able to use the truck much at all I have just been working on it, which is fine I just thought I would communicate that in the thread.

Looks like I will be order 8 new ZD-11s and some valve cover gaskets.
 

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