7.3 bottom IP bolt

ISPKI

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I socked the nut down another 1/2 turn and it felt like it snugged up more. Finally took the truck for a spin and boy howdy did that 5 degrees make a difference. It accelerates much faster right up to 3500rpm and seems to run cooler. Temp gauge didnt heat up as much and cooled down faster than it used to. Slight smoke on cold start up but none when driving, probably need to adjust the pump fuel screws a bit.
 

Jesus Freak

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I socked the nut down another 1/2 turn and it felt like it snugged up more. Finally took the truck for a spin and boy howdy did that 5 degrees make a difference. It accelerates much faster right up to 3500rpm and seems to run cooler. Temp gauge didnt heat up as much and cooled down faster than it used to. Slight smoke on cold start up but none when driving, probably need to adjust the pump fuel screws a bit.
Sweet.
 

Jesus Freak

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Brian VT

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A friend of mine was an auto. mechanic all his life.
I had him help me change the timing belt on my Pathfinder.
I asked if he needed me to get out my torque wrench.
He said that he only uses them on 2 things. Heads and wheel lug nuts.
 

XOLATEM

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you simply snug it down, plus just a hair, and call it good.
I used to call that 'Having a calibrated elbow'....
Is there a mathematical equation?
I believe there is...but I never got a definitive answer from any older, more experienced mechanic that I ever asked...
to see what the recommended value was so I could guesstimate where I am with it.
See number one above...
then go sit down and read a book or anything to let blood get back in your hand.
Amen, Brother...
Yeah I have no clue how I would ever get a torque wrench on there.
Reminds me of the time I felt I needed to tighten a clamp on the power steering hose on a 1990 T-bird SC and I had to use a three-foot combination of extensions and swivels to get a bite on it...
Just forget torquing the bottom bolt.
If he is like me...it would be like a thorn in the brain...driving him mad....gotta get some kind of resolution out of it...

You guys are a great bunch of guys...thanks for the insight...
 

XOLATEM

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At 90 degrees nothing changes.
If you can't access the nut at 90 degrees then use a calculator like this:
This has provided me with a definitive answer to a question I have had since 1979....and never got a decent answer to...no matter who in my orbit I asked...

I want to thank you very much for throwing that article up here...

Because of everyone on here...I have learned a ton of stuff...and I am grateful...
 

Jesus Freak

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This has provided me with a definitive answer to a question I have had since 1979....and never got a decent answer to...no matter who in my orbit I asked...

I want to thank you very much for throwing that article up here...

Because of everyone on here...I have learned a ton of stuff...and I am grateful...
Sir, if you never learn anything else from this forum.......if you go from here tomorrow and decide to never return, please make sure you know this : diesel engines can't run on air.
 

Rdnck84_03

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Sir, if you never learn anything else from this forum.......if you go from here tomorrow and decide to never return, please make sure you know this : diesel engines can't run on air.
And they are much more fun to drive when you have a good cupholder and don't have to chase your coffee out the passenger window. :rotflmao

James
 

Booyah45828

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There's a way to calculate the torque wrench setting when the centerline of the bolt isn't the centerline of the ratchet. Those calculators are available from a variety of sites online. My snap on tech angle torque wrench does it for me with it's "offset" feature.

How you would torque the bottom IP bolt exactly? I don't think a crowfoot will get it done, but a half moon wrench will, and then use a hex bit socket in the other end of the wrench. This is from ford itself, and the pic gives you an idea of the setup. It will also do the math for you if needed. https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...h_formula_halfmoon_en.asp?type=180degmoonleft

FYI, I don't do this in the shop. A push past snug on the half moon is good enough for me. Every fastener has a torque spec, you'll waste a lot of time torqueing every fastener you come across, tight truly is often times good enough.

Before I'm called a tool jūnkie, or criticized for owning them, you might be surprised where you'll all use a set of half moon wrenches. Top bolts on transfer cases for instance, or certain caliper bolts are a pain to reach as well......

Edit: apparently jūnkie with a normal u is a bad word.......
 
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ISPKI

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Yeah the concern here is these bolts are extremely critical and if one loosens, it could potentially scrap the IP and cause some very expensive repairs. Compound that with it being darn difficult to reach the bolt with any regular wrench (seems like "half-moon" and "obstruction" wrench are the same style tool) and that my bottom IP bolt was loose, leads me to want to make sure it gets done right and tight, if at all possible.

Admittedly, I am also extremely thorough and cant leave well enough alone, likely picked that up from my pops and a career as an engineer. If I work a bolt that is critical, as in could cause major failure or strand me if it fails or loosens, I will make sure its torqued to whatever spec applies. Been in too many situations with buddies stuck on the side of the road because they didnt torque their stuff down right to want to put up with that now in my life.
 

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