parallel turbos

1mouse3

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If you still have challenger breakers in a panel, its not a wise ideal to easy bake with a blow dryer set to kill.
:angel:


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Did also grind the divider on the he300 that is now a hx35.

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So now have a pair of twin with a matched paint.
:sly

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But, the never ending battle is not over. How do I get bad billet wheel in a rebuilt turbo and buy a sepeared good one from the same person? Its getting sent like this, even tho they may not flow the same. Money is going to be wasted to get a another core to swap out at a latter date.
:frustrate

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1mouse3

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I ground and blocked the suffice on the driver side manifold so will mostly seal.


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1mouse3

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Got the other one faced most the way as well, also the bungs are glue on.


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So on to painting and install of the manifolds.

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Well when I got to this one found I lost a few nuts.

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1mouse3

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With the turbos in there final place, can now jump through hoops to get oil lines shorted.


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The drain lines took some shenanigans with fitting to get them where they will clear stuff. The steering was biggest obstacles, it took two fittings since the turbo sits over it. These braided teflon lines have no give and took some work to get them sorted.

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hacked89

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Looks like one turbo will be in the vicinity of the passenger battery box and the other near the coolant reservoir which will be fine. Those can be relocated if needed.
 

Booyah45828

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Your passenger side drain might work if the ID of the hose is big enough, I can't tell the size from the picture. I think it's supposed to be 12an minimum. The driver's side I have my doubts with that 90 in there. You might want to rethink that or risk flooding the turbo. They're gravity drained, so any restriction in the line at all will cause it to back up.
 

Nero

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Now that you mention it, every single turbo I've seen on commercial vehicles, the drain goes straight down at least an inch or two, before doing an angle to drain.
Would be a shame to have a run away because of the steering column. Just take it out, steering is for chumps, I drive by the grooves in the road.
 

1mouse3

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Looks like one turbo will be in the vicinity of the passenger battery box and the other near the coolant reservoir which will be fine. Those can be relocated if needed.


The batterys have a tray on the frame the will need moved to the inside since the exhaust will change sides.

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This is where I ploted the driver side to be, it might have conflit with the power steering reservoir. Do need to find a smaller one, dont have the bracket for it and is too heavy for hose clamps.

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The passenger one will be the one fighting with the coolant reservoir.

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Your passenger side drain might work if the ID of the hose is big enough, I can't tell the size from the picture. I think it's supposed to be 12an minimum. The driver's side I have my doubts with that 90 in there. You might want to rethink that or risk flooding the turbo. They're gravity drained, so any restriction in the line at all will cause it to back up.


There -10 drain lines and have -4 feed that is going to have a 3/16 hard line extention.
 

Jesus Freak

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I figured there would be some serious under hood mods, but all the pics thus far have been on an engine stand.
 

CBRF3

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I am worried man your drains are a bit iffy to say the least -12 minimum from experience or you will have issues and blow past the seals in turbo and pump crank case oil into the intake causing a runaway just my 2 cents out of first hand experience be carefull man the drain is the most critical on the turbo to avoid runaway and a heck of alot of damage if not a fire yes been there with our idi's not enough drain and you got a bomb and its like asking the motor to go bang add to it that excess oil that gets into the motor will up compression and pop head gaskets PLZ up your drains and my advice put a 3/4 inch port on upper section of oil pan for a drain since are running 2 turbos will need 2 ports on the oil pan.
 

1mouse3

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I am worried man your drains are a bit iffy to say the least -12 minimum from experience or you will have issues and blow past the seals in turbo and pump crank case oil into the intake causing a runaway just my 2 cents out of first hand experience be carefull man the drain is the most critical on the turbo to avoid runaway and a heck of alot of damage if not a fire yes been there with our idi's not enough drain and you got a bomb and its like asking the motor to go bang add to it that excess oil that gets into the motor will up compression and pop head gaskets PLZ up your drains and my advice put a 3/4 inch port on upper section of oil pan for a drain since are running 2 turbos will need 2 ports on the oil pan.

I dont think can get -12 to work, there would clearance issues on the pass side with the manifold and one that drops to clear the compressor would hit steering on the other side. A t3 to 1/2 npt might work but would need a lot of fittings to get them to where can atatch a hose. How hot dose the oil get that comes out a turbo? Past that the only option I see is to get the flex pipe that cummins offers, not sure how to get that into the pan tho.

slinky tube
 

Booyah45828

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I also said that your drains aren't going to work.

You won't be able to use off the shelf "turbo drains" on this. Ditch those hydraulic fittings and elbows, the tight bends won't work well with gravity. Since this isn't pressurized, you can buy teflon lined braided hose with DIY at home fittings, they don't need to be crimped or high pressure. The teflon braid will handle the oil temp, and the oil won't be too hot, but being near the exhaust you'll want the teflon and stainless braid. Aeroquip will have the fittings and hose. You can find cheaper options, but the quality suffers in my experience.

The bends and fittings need to be smooth and long, and you can't have any significant angle change the first inch or two out of the turbo.

You don't want oil backing up into the turbo. It needs to drain easily.
 

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