Resurrecting a $900 1986 with 7.3idi swap. Fuel?

SkylabTech86IDI

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Do a fresh fuel filter, the ether probably needs diesel with it to make it happen.

While I wait for the fuel filter to show up, I’d like to rule out other causes. So, is it possible that due to bad wiring that the starter might not be receiving the full cranking amps? And if so Is there a way to test this by use a multimeter on the starter terminals to check out how much current the starter could be receiving when someone up top is turning the key?
 

Jesus Freak

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It's all pretty straight forward, just post a picture of your problem area and ask. Someone on here usually knows, there's a lot of great guys that want to help. Check out a 3G alternator, it might be a good opportunity while you're doing this stuff and while you're messing with wires look into a headlight wiring harness upgrade too. Your headlights will spontaneously turn on and off after they have been on for a while, it's really exciting!
 

Jesus Freak

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While I wait for the fuel filter to show up, I’d like to rule out other causes. So, is it possible that due to bad wiring that the starter might not be receiving the full cranking amps? And if so Is there a way to test this by use a multimeter on the starter terminals to check out how much current the starter could be receiving when someone up top is turning the key?
I suck at that stuff, your starter should be spinning pretty fast. If you know how to make a video we can tell you if it's fast enough. If you can't there's some videos of guys before and after starter swaps so you can get an idea of what you're looking for.

The best I can find is if you look at a recent thread called "I think I done burned up my starter" on page 2 there's a video that @Ky85 did and his starter sounds weak, that might get you in a right direction.
 
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IDIBRONCO

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So, is it possible that due to bad wiring that the starter might not be receiving the full cranking amps?
Yes, but that would only be with the big cable that runs down to the starter or with one (or both) of the battery ground cables. The smaller wires that are around the passenger's side fender area don't carry much current to the starter. Definitely not enough to turn the starter over and aren't for that purpose anyway.
And if so Is there a way to test this by use a multimeter on the starter terminals to check out how much current the starter could be receiving when someone up top is turning the key?
I'm also no electrical expert. My guess would be that if you can set your multimeter to the "amps" setting, touch the big positive cable on the starter, ground the negative lead (a good ground), and have someone turn the key to use the starter, then you should be able to see how many amps you're getting there. I also may be wrong on that part so there's your disclaimer.
Your headlights will spontaneously turn on and off after they have been on for a while, it's really exciting!
Yes if the headlight switch is bad or if the plug on the back side of that switch is bad. Sometimes that happens when your dimmer switch is bad too. At least on the ones with a foot operated dimmer switch.
I suck at that stuff, your starter should be spinning pretty fast. If you know how to make a video we can tell you if it's fast enough.
Sometimes it's still extremely hard to tell on a video. It's part educated guess, part pulling an answer out of where you sit down. Other times, it easy to tell. Ky85's video was one of those times where it's very hard to tell.
 

Nero

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That’s a good plan. I went ahead and ran a clear hose fuel line from a diesel can and it hooks up to the steel line that wraps around the back of the motor.
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That's the fuel return line. The fuel supply line is at the filter head, which then goes to the back of the injection pump. The injection pump does need about 6psi of positive pressure, which is generally provided by the mechanical lift pump. So if you bypass the tanks, tap the line at the lift pump inlet.
 

hacked89

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Yes, but that would only be with the big cable that runs down to the starter or with one (or both) of the battery ground cables. The smaller wires that are around the passenger's side fender area don't carry much current to the starter. Definitely not enough to turn the starter over and aren't for that purpose anyway.

I'm also no electrical expert. My guess would be that if you can set your multimeter to the "amps" setting, touch the big positive cable on the starter, ground the negative lead (a good ground), and have someone turn the key to use the starter, then you should be able to see how many amps you're getting there. I also may be wrong on that part so there's your disclaimer.

Yes if the headlight switch is bad or if the plug on the back side of that switch is bad. Sometimes that happens when your dimmer switch is bad too. At least on the ones with a foot operated dimmer switch.

Sometimes it's still extremely hard to tell on a video. It's part educated guess, part pulling an answer out of where you sit down. Other times, it easy to tell. Ky85's video was one of those times where it's very hard to tell.
I'll take you up on your electrical disclaimer. Not ragging you but just going to be brief. Don't do this OP. First, you measure current in series to the circuit not parallel. If you did measure it properly in series you would blow the meter out. It's rare to have a current issue in a circuit, the meter setting is for finding small amounts of parasitic draw, with most meters maxing at 10amps. For your question, you would have to use an ammeter.

The small wire to the starter is the triggering wire and the thick one is the one the cranking current is going through. Aslong as you have a thick, unbroken wire, properly connected. I wouldn't worry about current.

Unrelated to electrical, that engine should fire on ether before worrying about anything else including fuel. If it doesn't fire on ether it sure ain't firing on diesel.
 
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Jesus Freak

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Sometimes it's still extremely hard to tell on a video. It's part educated guess, part pulling an answer out of where you sit down. Other times, it easy to tell. Ky85's video was one of those times where it's very hard to tell.
There's a compare and contrast video somewhere that I looked at recently, but Ky85s video was the only one I could find. And I thought it was a decent representation of "sounds weak". I think the other videos was on a thread about the "Powermaster" starter.
 

hacked89

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I would bypass the fuel tanks for now, run it out of a jar or bucket of some sort. The tanks may be full of garbage. Had that happen on a 1988 my old man and I picked up dirt cheap not running. New tanks and she ran just fine.
Next for your fuel, from what Nero said, pull the supply off of the lift pump which is on the bottom front passenger side and put a hose on the nipple into a container of diesel.
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After that, have someone crank the engine while you push the shrader valve on the fuel filter head in until fuel comes out.

Next, you need to check the fuel shutoff solenoid on the injection pump at the top center of the engine. The thing all the hardlines are going into. You need to put a multimeter on the fuel shutoff solenoid connector checking for 12v when the key is turned to "on". If you listen to the pump while someone turns the key to on you should hear a faint click. If you get 12v when the key is on, continue on.
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Final step, crack the hardlines and crank the engine until fuel comes out. If you reach that point let us know cause then we will tell you how to bleed it. If you follow those steps your either going to find your fuel issue along the way or it's going to be something like a bad fuel shutoff solenoid or pump component.
 
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SkylabTech86IDI

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Hey all thanks for the reply’s. It’s been a busy last couple of days.

I’ve had time to read what you all have said, and want to give you an update:

I tried cranking and starting on ether gain. Result: no start ❌ ❌❌

I tried cranking and starting on gas fumes
Result: no start ❌❌❌

So, not great indicators of a healthy engine. A diesel that doesn’t start on gas fumes, absent of any diesel fuel, tells me compression is nonexistent. So, I’ll look into getting the harbor freight compression test kit and seeing what that has to say.

Kind of annoyed to see that this 7.3 motor quit like this… The Previous Owner says that This 89 7.3IDI swap worked, started up, and drove the 1989 E350 Van around that it came out of in December of 2020/January 2021. That same 7.3 motor then drove the 86 F250 that it was swapped into around for a couple of weeks and then quit - never to start up again. I can verify that this is true because I helped swap the 7.3idi into the 86 F250!
 

SkylabTech86IDI

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Next for your fuel, from what Nero said, pull the supply off of the lift pump which is on the bottom front passenger side and put a hose on the nipple into a container of diesel.
You must be registered for see images attach


After that, have someone crank the engine while you push the shrader valve on the fuel filter head in until fuel comes out.

Next, you need to check the fuel shutoff solenoid on the injection pump at the top center of the engine. The thing all the hardlines are going into. You need to put a multimeter on the fuel shutoff solenoid connector checking for 12v when the key is turned to "on". If you listen to the pump while someone turns the key to on you should hear a faint click. If you get 12v when the key is on, continue on.
You must be registered for see images attach

Final step, crack the hardlines and crank the engine until fuel comes out. If you reach that point let us know cause then we will tell you how to bleed it. If you follow those steps your either going to find your fuel issue along the way or it's going to be something like a bad fuel shutoff solenoid or pump component.

Hi, I verified that fuel is coming out of the shrader valve on the fuel filter head.
I’ve removed the fuel filter and am waiting on the new Wix to show up

I removed the unhooked AC compressor to clean up the motor bay a bit and to get the fuel filter off. It’s easier to remove the fuel filter on the truck version of the IDI than it is on the Van version.

Lastly, I verified that the IP is receiving 12.2v at the fuel cut off solenoid terminal when the key is left in the “On/Run” position.

I’m waiting on the fuel filter to show up which should be by Sept 16th.
 

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SkylabTech86IDI

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Don't give up, it'll live.
You’re right - The IDI’s can be stubborn.


I know that Timing is everything on these motors, so I’ll also be looking into checking the timing.

It wouldn’t hurt to buy an Amazon injector pop tester to verify that the injectors are in spec once this puppy lights off.
 

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