I did the deed yesterday...hooked it up like that wiring diagram...the wait to start light works as it should...the relay clicks once as it should...apparently the glow plugs arent heating up...the volt gauge dont go down at all and the interior light dont get dimmer and it cranks like crazy when i go to start it. I dont have time today to deal with it. I got other stuff to get ready for the work i gotta do this week and my daughter just went into labor early this morning. gonna be a pappy again sometime today or tomorow morning depending how this one comes out
Glow plug troubles
- Thread starter Jay Krout
- Start date
Lawrence Koepke
Registered User
The glow plug controller 12 V source goes through a big connector in the harness near the passenger side head, and is protected with fusible links buried in the harness next to the passenger-side battery. The pins in mine developed corrosion, creating resistance. My short term fix was to add wires in the harness to "jump" the connector. That lasted a few years, but I didn't like how warm the wires got with all the current the controller draws. I eventually bought a big AMG fuse (175A/32V), put one end on the starter relay hot terminal, and ran battery cable from the other side of the fuse directly to the glow plug controller. Problem solved, forever.
I tried this with some #2 weld lead and connecters a few weeks ago, it didnt work either. I figured since I had the weld lead I would try it this way before i spent the money for a fuse and battery cables
So now what Im thinkin is why not run a wire from the hot side (incoming side) of the relay to one post on the moment switch in the dash and a wire from the other post on the moment switch in the dash to the glow plug side (the out go side) of the relay? I think i would put a 30 amp or heavier inline fuse in each of these wires for safety sake. Just a thought I came up with. I tried both my original harness from the relay to the plugs and the new one i bought a few weeks ago and get the same results so I dont think its the harness, the glow plugs all check out good as well as of last week
If I try this Ben Franklin type experiment now that the white wire is took off and the wait to start light is hooked to where it was will that work or does all that need to get hooked back the way it was or somethin different? I gotta tell ya Im lost like last years easter egg at this point and gettin more frustrated evry time I look at it.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
If you're trying to go back stock, then the white wire will need to be permanently grounded again.
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
Jay,
Sorry to hear that.
That is why I suggested you jumper it and test to see if the bypass would fix the issue.(Turn on the glow plugs.) My concern has been your glow plugs should have worked unless something else was broken. So if the test of grounding the other small post on the relay worked then doing the bypass would work.
It sounds like you -
1) Perhaps have a power issue from the battery to the relay.
2) Perhaps have a power issue from the ignition to the relay.
3) The new controller has a bad relay.(Does not make any or a bad connection between the two big posts When powered.)
Congrats on the new grandchild!
Sorry to hear that.
That is why I suggested you jumper it and test to see if the bypass would fix the issue.(Turn on the glow plugs.) My concern has been your glow plugs should have worked unless something else was broken. So if the test of grounding the other small post on the relay worked then doing the bypass would work.
It sounds like you -
1) Perhaps have a power issue from the battery to the relay.
2) Perhaps have a power issue from the ignition to the relay.
3) The new controller has a bad relay.(Does not make any or a bad connection between the two big posts When powered.)
Congrats on the new grandchild!
Nahhhh...its not goin back to stock the way it was...it wasnt workin then either....only difference with this by pass there is no power at the end of the glow plug wires...didnt get into it any deeper than that...i been too busy workin at the mine to get into it.
Just gonna run 2 wires from either the positive of one of the bateriies or the starter relay with an inline fuse in each wire to one side of the switch in the dash and a wire from the other side of the switch, cut the 2 wires to each side of the glow plug wires and connect them up. Just by pass the whole controller/relay setup altogether. Maybe hook the white wire back up to the controler the way it was and the blue wait to start wire back together the way it was. Havent figured out yet which will work. Just got home from work and goin back out tonite to work on another bucket...probly will be back sunday nite and then back out at the one i worked on today and it gonna be a long week
So I finally figured this out and what the trouble was back in October....I been bowed up workin for months and forgot all about this.
After hookin all this up 6 or 7 maybe even 8 or 9 different ways i got to trackin down wires and such and remembered something. What i remembered was that one time when i first bought this truck they started to give me fits and I tracked doen these wires and found that there is 2 wires before the relay on the passenger side fender that feed the juice to the glow plug power wires. These 2 wires have fuse link wires in them...one was burnt. So I replaced it...BINGO...they work and its hooked up like stock from the factory.
Next time this happens Im goin to replace both of them with inline fuses and put a 40 amp fuse in each wire...it will be easier to check if they are burnt and esasier to change
After hookin all this up 6 or 7 maybe even 8 or 9 different ways i got to trackin down wires and such and remembered something. What i remembered was that one time when i first bought this truck they started to give me fits and I tracked doen these wires and found that there is 2 wires before the relay on the passenger side fender that feed the juice to the glow plug power wires. These 2 wires have fuse link wires in them...one was burnt. So I replaced it...BINGO...they work and its hooked up like stock from the factory.
Next time this happens Im goin to replace both of them with inline fuses and put a 40 amp fuse in each wire...it will be easier to check if they are burnt and esasier to change
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WhistlinDiesel
Registered User
I’m in the same issue. If you have two people try connecting the two hot post with a non conductive handled screw driver and have someone seeing if the WTS light is on. That’s something I did and it helped narrow down if it was harness or not.
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
Reggie f250
Full Access Member
40 Amp fuses won't be enough. In the cold the glow plugs can draw 200 amps. You could use 2 100 Amp fuses or 1 200 Amp fuse.this is also why some run a 4 ga battery cable to the glow plug solenoid.
