I’m at my wits end with this knock

As the title states I’m at my wits end With this knock that I though was the injectors just replaced those and it’s the exact same
I know it’s not rod knock as this has been happening for 6k+ miles and it would’ve blowed up by now
Could this be an exhaust leak? If so how far down does an exhaust leak make a knock?
Sometimes it’s bad sometimes it’s barely audible I can’t seem to pin point a pattern that it makes
Here’s a video ignore what the camera is pointing at as it has nothing to do with my new pump
The video is about average knock level
Thanks you for reading any input is appreciated
Injectors are from Russ by the way

Austin86250 said:

As the title states I’m at my wits end With this knock that I though was the injectors just replaced those and it’s the exact same
I know it’s not rod knock as this has been happening for 6k+ miles and it would’ve blowed up by now
Could this be an exhaust leak? If so how far down does an exhaust leak make a knock?
Sometimes it’s bad sometimes it’s barely audible I can’t seem to pin point a pattern that it makes
Here’s a video

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ignore what the camera is pointing at as it has nothing to do with my new pump
The video is about average knock level
Thanks you for reading any input is appreciated
Injectors are from Russ by the way

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Some thoughts -

1) Never assume a new or rebuilt part is good. Russ is top notch but even he will have a very small failure rate. So loosen each injector line when it is knocking and see if one open line cures it. If opening each line one at a time, to prevent each injector from popping does not stop the knocking, then Russ sent you a great set of injectors. If the knock goes away perhaps you got a bad one. Wear gloves and safety glasses as the diesel is under pressure and will shoot out.

2) Perhaps your knock is a lifter, thus why it comes and goes. Some swear by marvel mystery oil to fix gummed up or stuck engine parts. But use at your own risk, never have tried the stuff.

3) If it is an exhaust leak you can find it by getting a 6’ long vacuum line and place one end close to your ear (Not all the way in it.) and use the other end to search. You will know if you find one.

4) Also timing can cause extra diesel clatter. (Louder noise than normal.) Did you time your engine after you put in the injectors? (Which is necessary.)


5) On your IP are two electrical connections. The one closest to the windshield is the IP advance solenoid. It is supposed to get +12v when the engine is cold, then turn off when the engine is around 130*. Maybe your heat sensor is bad. So you advance is coming on and off making more clatter when on.(Not knocking, but similar.). So use a test light or multimeter to test.

Isn’t bad lifter a tic vs a knock? I’m a little confused about the exhaust method you describe

Went to go crack the hard line and the Injector spun with it? they where torqued to 40 lbs 3 days ago

I doubt it's an exaust leak. But I'm with Big Bart on all the other stuff. Hang in there, you'll get it! Have you tried turning up the stereo? That quiets engine knock.

I’ve done that for 10 months

, sounds like you got the injectors torqued down right!!

My 6.9 manual says 35 but I’d did 40

Austin86250 said:

Isn’t bad lifter a tic vs a knock? I’m a little confused about the exhaust method you describe

Click to expand...

Austin,

So the challenge with exhaust leaks is that metal expands and contracts. Sometimes metal just cracks and leaks exhaust.

So maybe when the engine cools a exhaust manifold bends a little and you have a leak. You start the truck and you hear a exhaust leak. Engine warms, the exhaust manifold expands, the leak is sealed up. Maybe when cold no leak, things heat up and expand and you now have a exhaust leak. The point is they can open or close based on the temp of the metal.

So the vacuum hose trick is when the end of the hose is near or over a exhaust leak the noise and potentially some exhaust pressure will go down the vacuum hose. Since you put the other end near the entrance of your ear canal you hear a dramatic volume increase come down the vacuum line allowing you to pinpoint the leak even though the motor is running.

A engine tick and a knock is generally metal on metal striking each other. So yes a severe rod knock is loud. A minor rod knock may not be louder than a lifter tick/knock. A push rod that has come off the rocker arm will make a pretty good knocking noise.

You may want to get one of these to see if you can locate the source or area of the knock.

I have a stethoscope that my great grandpa made time to put it to work

alright guys I think I have may have found the culprit on injector #3 am I correct or what?

Sounds like you're on to something.

So you agree that it’s injector 3 if so how do I go about getting a new one from Russ

I can definitely say #3 is suspicious. As far as Russ goes, I guess I'd try asking.

Austin86250 said:

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alright guys I think I have may have found the culprit on injector #3 am I correct or what?

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Austin,

Discuss with Russ, he is a reputable person, I am sure he will offer to swap it out or rebuild it. Ask for a new washer too. Ask him to watch the video, he may have some thoughts.

Now if you get a new injector and that same cylinder knocks then maybe something is up with that cylinder. (It is rod knock.) But very likely it’s injector knock and a new injector and you are good to go. You also could swap #3 and #4 and see if the knock moves to the other side of the engine.

Just FYI knocking and clattering do not record well on video. But in this case you could hear a big difference when you open the #3 line and bypassed that injector.

I will keep my fingers crossed a new injector and you are good to go!