New injectors arrived. Advice?

I don’t feel like it’s that much work to just remove the injector lines. Remove the vibration clamps, and then remove the lines starting from the top down where they’re connected to the IP. Obviously you should label them so you know where they go back. Also don’t forget to hold the timing adapter with a second wrench on #1 cyl if you have a 7.3.

I appreciate that input also. That will be plan B if I don't feel like I have enough wiggle room after removing the vibration clamps. Thank you.

You'll have to bend them pretty far to kink them. The hardest part is if you do bend them a little, it's difficult to line up the threads for the swivel nut.

Nero said:

I've always replaced injectors by loosening the isolators and just flexing the lines out of the way.

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I do the same.

gandalf said:

You don't necessarily need to remove the IP when you replace the injectors. You might, however, need to loosen the injector lines at the IP so those lines can move out of the way. Whatever you do, don't bend the injector lines. Also, if you need to clean the bores a 12 gauge bore brush seems to work quite well. When you pull the old injectors be absolutely sure that the copper washer comes out too.

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Whatever you do, don't bend the injector lines.

Hate to ask, what can happen if this is done?

They can kink and if bent enough times, break off.

Nero said:

They can kink and if bent enough times, break off.

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Kinking once can be enough to cause a hard line to start a small crack. Initially it may then start to suck air, and later leak fuel, before it finally snaps.

Nero said:

You'll have to bend them pretty far to kink them. The hardest part is if you do bend them a little, it's difficult to line up the threads for the swivel nut.

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On the other hand, when I did the o-rings on my F250, I was very careful not to bend the lines and one or two didn't want to go back. Thankfully, the E350's lines behaved when I did it's o-rings. However the F250 had probably been messed with before, and the E350 hadn't.

I've been using Parts Unlimited polyurethane clear blue fuel line and spring clips on my return lines for 5-7 years with no problems. When it was new, it is translucent so you could see air in it.
Now it is brown and opaque, but still flexible and not leaking.

IDIBRONCO said:

For an even bigger hit, it's best to replace both the injector pump and injectors at the same time. They all wear at about the same rate.

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+1
They make an actual injection bore brush for the 7.3 twin stepped bad boy go get one...

Clb said:

+1
They make an actual injection bore brush for the 7.3 twin stepped bad boy go get one...

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Got a link to the brush?

Bluepoint is snapon I think...

Your pictures weren't showing up originally, now they are. Yes blue point is snap on, I'll check the local dealer when he shows up.

Effin Verizon/ Samsung Stupidfone.
Sorry

My two cents
1) Take the injector lines off, it will be less frustrating. I use a crows foot and a wrench. As mentioned above mark each one as putting them on is more like a jig saw puzzle if you take off the isolators.
2) If you have the kit just replace the return lines, caps, and o-rings. Now you should be good for a couple years.
3) You do not need to remove the IP. But after use your néw timing meter to determine if your timing is on. If not set it, it might be part of your issue.
4) While this far pull the glow plugs and test. (ohm meter looking for resistance, if open glow plug is bad.) If not Motorcraft/beru’s replace before they ballon and get stuck. Now you can blow compressed air into the glow plug hole while cleaning the injector hole so it blows out not falls in.
5) As stated above make sure the sealing washer for each injector is recovered when removed. Clean the hole as best possible with a bore brush. A video scope is a great way to check your work but a flashlight and a good look works too.
6) Use a little grease or anti seize to get the new washer to stick to the injector when it goes in.
7) Tighten injector line nuts to snug tight not hulk tight. Hulk tight can damage or crack them. You always can tighten more if not sealing at snug tight.
8) I do one injector at a time to prevent anything going/blowing down into the engine. I also cover the intake port with a rag.

It sounds like a lot to do but it really is not bad. It’s like taking off some hoses and some bolts and putting back on.