What is the fix?

catbird7

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Another possibility is the aluminum casting could be cracked. If the engine was removed at some point in the past and the mechanic did not remove the oil filter, very often the filter hits the cross member. These filters are very long and act as a long lever arm. This coupled with the heavy weight of the engine dramatically increase potential for damage to the filter casting. Since the process of removing and resealing the cooler is messy, time consuming, and costly it may be wise to consider replacing the casting.
 

ibapaine

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Might be worth sending an oil sample (after you get some miles on it) to Blackstone Labs. I did after I bought my 93 back in 2005, they found trace amounts of ant-freeze in my oil, couldn't see it visually. I ran another short oil change, and it too showed trace amounts. Pulled and rebuilt my oil cooler and my oil tests have been negative for anti-freeze ever since.

Well worth the cost of the oil test.

This is what I’m worried about.
Could be the Valve Cover leaking on to the Starter.
They don`t leak a lot of oil, just enough to make a
mess.
There is also a drain in the Valley Pan in the back that drains
down the back side of the engine, Not sure it it makes it
to the starter.

I hope you didn`t read that I said to remove the Steel fender to get to the Oil Cooler, just remove the inner plastic one.
Just love Ford designers, they put one lower fender bolt that is almost impossible to get to, need to open the door, and then.....well when Iam in the JY, I just remove the door.
Haven`t replaced a fender on my truck yet.

Edit: I thought I sent this off this morning...must have got side tracked in my old age. had to run up to Reno 60 miles and left the computer on all day. 9:25pm now. :Q

Goat
I was going to replace the fenders when I first bought the truck. Then I found the location of the bolts and said it can wait. I assume that taking everything else off will make it easier to remove the fender as well. So when I get around to this it’ll be a extensive project.
Another possibility is the aluminum casting could be cracked. If the engine was removed at some point in the past and the mechanic did not remove the oil filter, very often the filter hits the cross member. These filters are very long and act as a long lever arm. This coupled with the heavy weight of the engine dramatically increase potential for damage to the filter casting. Since the process of removing and resealing the cooler is messy, time consuming, and costly it may be wise to consider replacing the casting.
Are you saying I can buy a completely new cooler and just install it?
 

ibapaine

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Now if this is the only thing that needs to be replaced. Why go through the trouble of doing everything else. Looking at this oil cooler, it would appear I can just put it on. But I’m going to assume there isnt enough room to do that.
$217 on the price.
 

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ibapaine

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No there isn't. You will have to do more than just remove some bolts.
Unfortunately, I know A-F needs to be removed to replace G. Then A-F will need to be new when I put it back together bc every part will break if I don’t buy the parts before I pull them. If I buy them then nothing will break so I’m waiting till I’ve saved up for all that. So, I can have a bunch of spare parts that I’ll feel stupid for buying.
 

Old Goat

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You are going to have to press that piece on, it will not just tap on. Trying to mess with one end will probably cause the other end to leak.

That piece 1/2 the price of an engine from PNP.

Goat
 

ibapaine

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Why has no one come up with a better oil cooler for these things???
Just think my truck is a 94. We are almost 30 yrs past the time these were supposed to be top of the line trucks.
Outside of the riding comfort, having WiFi in your truck and all that nonsense.
These trucks are still top of the line for reliability and mechanically sound provided they were taking care of.
So maybe I should of said engineering makes things softer, which makes them harder to use.
 

Cubey

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These trucks are still top of the line for reliability and mechanically sound provided they were taking care of.

But not speed and power like the 7.3 PSD, and that's what most people want. They wanna go 80 in mountains while pulling a 40ft 5th wheel.
 

ibapaine

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But not speed and power like the 7.3 PSD, and that's what most people want. They wanna go 80 in mountains while pulling a 40ft 5th wheel.
The little that I lose, I gain in peace of mind! When it breaks I can fix it.
When the PSD breaks so does your wallet.
 
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TNBrett

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But not speed and power like the 7.3 PSD, and that's what most people want. They wanna go 80 in mountains while pulling a 40ft 5th wheel.
I’ve driven plenty of 7.3 PSD’s. What you describe would need to be one that was seriously built. The 7.3 PSD was a good motor, but is still a dog compared to today’s diesel trucks.
 

ibapaine

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I’ve driven plenty of 7.3 PSD’s. What you describe would need to be one that was seriously built. The 7.3 PSD was a good motor, but is still a dog compared to today’s diesel trucks.

Now I don’t have any exp with the diesel trucks of today. However I have plenty in a semi. And they outright suck as far as power compared to pre 07 pre DEF.
If we go pre EGR so 01 they get even better.
Is it not the same for pickups?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Now I don’t have any exp with the diesel trucks of today. However I have plenty in a semi. And they outright suck as far as power compared to pre 07 pre DEF.
If we go pre EGR so 01 they get even better.
Is it not the same for pickups?
I feel that's debatable as far as the pickups go. From what little I know, the pickups are constantly coming out with more power as the model years progress. At least that's how they are advertised. I have to agree with TNBrett on the 7.3 PSD. They were good engines and they could put out some pretty good power for not a lot of money, but stock, they were far from a powerhouse.
 

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