CBRF3
Full Access Member
The to4z is literally a direct replacement but a bit bigger for the oem turbo on our old IDI's that is only reason I even linked them just to give a idea the to4E is pretty well the stock turbo if memory serves me correctly.
Self oil burning
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What im finding for factory turbo is a t04b like the h3 or the TE06H. The t04z would be a upgrade over it but both are t4, that would not spool at all with the fuel target of 110cc.
Code:
T04B-H3
compressor 70 trim
58mm inducer 70mm exducer
turbine 1.15 or 1.00 ar t4
64mm exducer 73mm inducer
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@IDIoit has tried the gtp38's and found t4 turbines not usable.
This is spec I can find of it, only finding a map of a tp38 and gtp38r.
Code:
GTP38
compressor
60mm inducer 80mm exducer
turbine t4
67.78mm exducer 76.50mm inducer
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Seeing its a top loading iron ball and has the ratio I want, had me interest so did some further digging.
First, found a video of one ran on a dyno. This proves it has the positive feedback I seek.
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Second, I found a full swap kit to install one as a option.
NV4500 Trans Swap Kit
Third, for dodge's it is used both behind the cummins and v10, this yard list a few in the chicago/rockford area. That is a bit much of a run and would rather find one in the st louis location, but still the posability of finding one is high.
U-pick-a-part
So, I would go for this over the zf5 and this is ratio of the trans.
Code:
3.55
1400 1750 2400
1 7 9 12
2 13 17 23
3 24 30 42
4 41 51 70
5 56 70 95
3.73
1400 1750 2400
1 7 9 12
2 13 16 22
3 23 29 40
4 39 48 66
5 53 66 91
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I found a issue with part number dorman 594-124 that the parts store sold me for a ballencer. Am told that this one I gave to the machine shop dose not fit the crank, is bigger diamitor and differnt size key. Looking at capatability on the stores site is showing fits both vin k and f crank, so was I sold one for a powerstroke? Am I correct that a turbo ballencer should interchange on to a na and will now need to hunt out a oem one of 1816624C1?
TNBrett
Full Access Member
No. Turbo and NA balancers are weighted differently.
Yes I know the turbo one has more offset weight. The more weight need to add, the more will cost to balance. I am using turbo pistons and powerstroke rod, so a turbo clone is being built. It dont help I was sold a powersroke balancer, found a used one Im going to run for now. I have the flywheel for the turbo engine as well.
Well got a used turbo ballancer in and took it to the machine shop so can finnish. Get there found he cut .012 off the deck when I told him no more than .004, this is a major problem. He keep saying there are thick head gaskets avalible and wont give me a part number. This came up when I drop off the block, I told him no more than .004 unless he found the gasket. I was not wanting to shave these pistons and have them recoated.
CBRF3
Full Access Member
ouche that is not good as for the head gaskets they do exist but are rare the OEM manufacturer was Victor Reinz he may well have caused alot of issues for you also now you will need to have your heads pocketed for the valve seats and such to recess your valves back because of clearance issues with valves and pistons as we talked about before avoid all head surfacing and block surfacing or decking if at all possible to avoid these headaches that are engine killing issues. The other fix is ford sold pistons just for this situation and they were recessed 0.010 by raising the wrist pin farther up in piston federal mogul was one of the manufacturers of said pistons after market guys used these pistons to decompress theyre motors. I avoid shaving pistons for our motors at all costs due to it brings less mass in crown of piston to absorb heat and allow oil squirters at bottom of cylinder to dissipate it meaning piston temps increase and swelling also increases spelling out danger add to it increased chance of piston crown cracking.Well got a used turbo ballancer in and took it to the machine shop so can finnish. Get there found he cut .012 off the deck when I told him no more than .004, this is a major problem. He keep saying there are thick head gaskets avalible and wont give me a part number. This came up when I drop off the block, I told him no more than .004 unless he found the gasket. I was not wanting to shave these pistons and have them recoated.
I tryed to find the those pistons with the raised pin but did not find any that where in stock. Had found shims but am seeing those have a high chance of weeping coolant and Romel77 is saying someone still has one his custom gaskets unused, but there looks to be not much success rate with them.
CBRF3
Full Access Member
I may have a few sets of these pistons your needing what did you bore it over to wasn't it 0.020" if so I might have you covered but I don't know when can produce them I bought 5 sets years ago and only used 2 sets I also bought those forged ones from the machine shop over in Peoria Illinois years ago I bought 2 or 3 sets that same day all of them he had knowing they were very special
I believe they were 0.020" over stock bore and were for the rare turbo marine 7.3l IDI HIGH OUTPUT engine.
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CBRF3
Full Access Member
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pump DB2831-5090 1993-94 Marine(260BHP)
yes they existed just super rare they were all the way upto like 340hp the standard marine injection pump says it was 260BHP or brake Horse Power or 263 crank HP this is what the forged armor lanced pistons I have were for that have the wrist pin raised about 0.010"-0.015" not exactly sure but all are matched that I bought from Peoria Illinois machine shop many years ago.
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CBRF3
Full Access Member
not sure exactly but I do have a large assortment of various flame cups / pre cups and such I will go thru them as i bought a few cylinder heads for these said marine engines over the years and almost any internal part I could find years ago along with a few blocks which were the Turbo block with a bit different casting number and some reinforcing in a few areas as not much info was known and they were built very different than the truck version and beefed up substantially in many ways and was interested in these and had the money / time back then
.I even bought several of the special injection pumps for these like 5 or more with the 5090 designation or 260Bhp rated and so far not been able to get anyone that will rebuild them as i modified one and ran it on one of my motors set to kill and that pump flat flowed the fuel HX40 super nearly 30psi boost after intercooler and still rolling coal that motor didn't survive long but was insane I think I got 20k miles out of it and it was pretty well built to the hilt. I will say unless I pegged the peddle to the floor I would never see much over 20psi boost on that truck / motor / turbo and it was crazy I rarely got it over 1/2 throttle but I got brave and stomped it to the floor the day it died ( day I put the 5090 pump on it ) needless to say alot of wheel hop / spin at over 50mph going down road with a dually and trac lok a rod shot out side of the engine and turned the block to swiss cheese it was insane is all I can say and I was amazed that motor lasted that long but my stupidity was what killed it.
I believe the piston swelled from heat / pressure and then it pinched the rings and essentially seized the piston in the bore then the rod decided to go ejecto out the side of blocko hince why I warned you against going to crazy on fuel / heat and going high on HP if expect to make it last especially with stock style pistons as theyre cast and swell alot and swelling = my experience I just explained and I built that motor with a wide ring gap on both compression rings and slightly loose bore size to compensate for the boost and heat / piston expansion it had some blowby from day 1 and used oil aka spewed it out the road draft tube no CDR going into the air breather as oil only exagerarates this issue by adding more compression due to oil in the intake air I went all out to reduce compression and keep things as controlled as possible in that build.
The flame cups I gave you other day I believe were the desired 6.9 idi flame cups as theyre known for easier starts and better idling when cold and is often claimed as to why the 6.9 idi is easier to start in the cold and such.
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What Im finding on them is the 88 ones are the 7.3 like I got from you. The early 6.9 would be the one with the bigger port and chamber, is a bit thinner and may have a difference in the head.
pre-cup 7.3-6.9
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The heads on the 6.9 have look to be the latter cups with the smaller throat, this is from when they were pulled for head gaskets.
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