Supply/Lift pumps

raydav

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On the subject of getting fuel from the tank to the IP, I think many of you are spending too much time and money on the subject.

Based on the request for a dead horse emoji, I assume the common talk about a Facet pump it is a 40223 that people are referring to. A brief look at eBay shows $60-150. For about $50 you can get a completely serviceable pump and a MUCH better filter.

It starts with chucking the filter assembly on the engine - it was put there for factory assembly reasons. Keep only the vacuum switch that lights the dirty filter light. And there will not be a return line.

Now look at this pic.

The filter on the far right is for the transmission.
To the left of that is a two micron Racor fuel filter
On the frame is a pulse pump - when not powered is is just a check valve.
To the right of the pump is a block that fuel passes thru, and has the dirty filter switch, and a valve that I use if I want some fuel in a can.

Fuel goes from the tank, thru the filter, then the pump and block, then to the IP.

When selecting a pump, it is good to have a base line. To evaluate pumps there is a bit of a chicken and egg process - you first must have a functioning system with the engine running. So we will assume you have built the above system with whatever pump you could scrounge.

Then the first pump you will test is a piece of hose. I have a three way switch, that will run the pump only when there is oil pressure, always, or never. The system is very useful for priming and maintenance.

I have reported here, that at least a couple times I have driven off with the pump off, and the engine did not seem to notice. But that was three miles, 50 mph, on flat ground.

It recently got much more extreme. The main power feed found a way to ground. The auto reset breaker was cycling. I disconnected the wire, jumped the IP valve and the starter relay and drove home. At that point the only thing with power was the IP valve. The E4OD power-off default is forth gear, no convertor lock, so acceleration was slow.

That trip was well over ten miles, and near the end is a hill that I pulled at near full power 60 mph. And my van is 9K#

And that was not thru the pulse pump but thru one of these that I had recently swapped in.

So please, let us not agonize over pumps.

Ray
 
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Duke57

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On the subject of getting fuel from the tank to the IP, I think many of you are spending too much time and money on the subject.

Based on the request for a dead horse emoji, I assume the common talk about a Facet pump it is a 40223 that people are referring to. A brief look at eBay shows $60-150. For about $50 you can get a completely serviceable pump and a MUCH better filter.

It starts with chucking the filter assembly on the engine - it was put there for factory assembly reasons. Keep only the vacuum switch that lights the dirty filter light. And there will not be a return line.

Now look at this pic.

The filter on the far right is for the transmission.
To the left of that is a two micron Racor fuel filter
On the frame is a pulse pump - when not powered is is just a check valve.
To the right of the pump is a block that fuel passes thru, and has the dirty filter switch, and a valve that I use if I want some fuel in a can.

Fuel goes from the tank, thru the filter, then the pump and block, then to the IP.

When selecting a pump, it is good to have a base line. To evaluate pumps there is a bit of a chicken and egg process - you first must have a functioning system with the engine running. So we will assume you have built the above system with whatever pump you could scrounge.

Then the first pump you will test is a piece of hose. I have a three way switch, that will run the pump only when there is oil pressure, always, or never. The system is very useful for priming and maintenance.

I have reported here, that at least a couple times I have driven off with the pump off, and the engine did not seem to notice. But that was three miles, 50 mph, on flat ground.

It recently got much more extreme. The main power feed found a way to ground. The auto reset breaker was cycling. I disconnected the wire, jumped the IP valve and the starter relay and drove home. At that point the only thing with power was the IP valve. The E4OD power-off default is forth gear, no convertor lock, so acceleration was slow.

That trip was well over ten miles, and near the end is a hill that I pulled at near full power 60 mph. And my van is 9K#

And that was not thru the pulse pump but thru one of these that I had recently swapped in.

So please, let us not agonize over pumps.

Ray
I am using one of those gold pumps. They used to sell those years ago. Mine works ok...so far.
 

raydav

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I am using one of those gold pumps. They used to sell those years ago. Mine works ok...so far.
Which gold pump, the one on the frame or the one on the table? They are both currently available. The one on the counter is by Carter, and is available both "real" and knock-off.

The one on the frame, I have used a bunch of over decades and only had to replace two. They cost so little I carry spares.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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The issue with the Facet isn't whether or not it's delivering fuel, but if it's delivering enough fuel for the performance application. Some of us are looking for WOT acceleration but most of us are towing, and many are towing up hills.

I have my IP maxed out and want to keep up on hills while towing my 4.5k trailer, and sometimes with a camper too as in my avatar.
Under these conditions the Facet would not keep up(~1psi to the IP inlet) and the result was lower power and higher EGTs. Not cool!
I drove with a fuel pressure gauge for a few months testing all of this. So if you're happy with your setup, run it. But the IP's are designed for 5psi inlet pressure and less or more than that affects timing and probably other things as well.

While we're on it, as you mentioned the IP will actually pull it's own fuel-- but it certainly wasn't designed to do that. Timing and performance will suffer. Maybe not much at part throttle, I dunno.

I can tell the difference with the low pressure supply, which is why I suspected a problem in the first place and added a fuel pressure gauge I could see in my cab.
 

Duke57

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Which gold pump, the one on the frame or the one on the table? They are both currently available. The one on the counter is by Carter, and is available both "real" and knock-off.

The one on the frame, I have used a bunch of over decades and only had to replace two. They cost so little I carry spares.
The one on the table. Yes those are still made. Using it now actually for the past year and a half. Mine did not say carter but same style.
 

raydav

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While we're on it, as you mentioned the IP will actually pull it's own fuel-- but it certainly wasn't designed to do that. Timing and performance will suffer. Maybe not much at part throttle, I dunno.
I would hope you would understand, that my point is, if I can move 9K#, 60 MPH, up a rather steep hill, with no supply pump at all, it should not take much of a supply pump to run properly.
 

Big Bart

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Some other thoughts.

1) Doing a mechanical lift pump on a Van is harder due to the chassis sitting over the engine. Thus a more popular and motivational conversion to e-pump on a van.
2) Many have had issues with moving to an e-pump for the first time. It was trial and error of getting a pump that worked under all conditions for them. Many did not, especially those who installed two together.
3) The folks who have gone with Holley reds have overall had the best luck out of the gate. But some said they needed a pressure regulator.
4) This comes up over and over I believe because new members don’t have enough spare hours to read hundreds of past threads. They start to follow new threads which likely fills there spare time. The search engine on the site is poor, so finding threads is tough. So it comes up because frequently because
a) It hard to find those old threads.
b) Lift pumps are a common repair item. Seems these pumps tend to fail every 40-80k miles. (IE why you mentioned you carry spares.)
 

raydav

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Some other thoughts.

b) Lift pumps are a common repair item. Seems these pumps tend to fail every 40-80k miles. (IE why you mentioned you carry spares.)
But I also carry:
Belts
Water pump
IP and line stuff
Two alternators
Brake pads
Air filter
Fuel filter
Electric kit
Baumann transmission controller
Plumbing kit
A couple hundred # of tools

There are two batteries for the engine, four batteries for accessories, an inverter, and sometimes solar panels.

The van has been to Florida, around the Quebec Gaspe Peninsula, Vancouver Island BC, and every major highway in lower US. And did it from from SoCal.

I once swapped an IP at the end of a forest road, after an epic storm in West VA, where roads were blocked by down trees.

All those things can put you on the side of the road, and sometimes there is no help to be had. But if you stay close to home there is always road service.
 

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