Self oil burning

1mouse3

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literally solid cast iron

Well the t19 is a iron ball, a month ago had to pull the one out the f100 to fix the fork. I dont look foward pulling a fuller 5 speed out a topkick but needs done for someone, it needs a flywheel do to falled starter. I would think the nv4500 ball would weigh in between them. All thread rod dose wonders to get them to find home in the bell.
 

1mouse3

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PLZ don't get me wrong I have done tons of burnouts with these trucks / motors watch your pyrometer like a hawk 2nd coolant temp and if have it oil temp and if are running a automatic trans watch trans temp and after let idle for a while to kool down or take it for a mild drive to let everything cooldown I am not telling you you can't or its not possible just giving you a heads up as your playing with a different beast than I believe you are used to.


Power and burnouts go hand in hand, so dont doute its been done. Since this build will have a power band to 2500, it will be a different beast but can adapt. Do know it wont be like a duramax, got a cliant with a hand full that Iv driven a few times. He has one with a dyno tune, he drives it like I drive the f100. This dose not have the saftey net of a computer to give limp mode when its not happy. Being this is all mecanical, that would put me in charge of limp mode and monitoring the vitals. Yes do know a turbo needs cool down time so dose not heat soke and crack. As you pointed out would be like running nitrous, Iv seen the holes pepole have put in gasser pistons from it. So figured best ask what to look out for and how best treat this beast. I have found driving her with the n/a 6.9, that power is there right of idle and will cause her to power slide without asking. Giving it more power will amplify that and understand will have to be carefull, she is a bit big to be having slide around. I can do it but sight is not optimal for my comfort, so its about easing through turns to minimize chance when wet. I do have a understand about power sliding, this is doing such in the f100 and will do it now with less effort since had the diff welded. On wet ground, she will get to dancing around. LOL So do know dont want a welded diff or spool in this beast, yes it will reduce the burnouts but sliding is turning with it.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media


That brings up another question, have you messed with either these? Would like her to have tracktion from a stop and not be adamant on doing a one wheel roast on wet ground, dont want to scrafice all hope of civilized steering like with a spool. The eaton is a bit high in cost and dont see me finding funds for it anytime soon, the lock right is better in cost.

lockright
truetrac

I will have all the above in a lcd gauge read out and plan to monitor fuel pressure past the filter, since what I find on this pump is that it will alter the timing.

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1mouse3

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no simply let clutch out get to second gear with clutch fully engaged then you can pretty much mash it but dont rely on the governor to shift keep it in the 2500-2800 rpm then shift if traction breaks loose let out of the throttle or feather it and don't rely on the governor to save you these motors have a mechanical governor inside the injection pump they see enough load they dump more fuel but won't defuel quick enough if the tires do break loose in short you risk making the internal motor parts external parts LOL rely on your right foot and common sense and watch your pyrometer.
Dumping the clutch on our motors is really bad on the clutches they like to go boom and take the bell housing of trans out and well the transfer cases dont like it either not to mention carrier bearings or drive shafts our difs if are running the sterling 10.25 / 10.50 or dana 70 / 80 are pretty well bullet proof and will take a beating but those other parts not so much LOL.


I was shown how to dump a clutch when leaning to drive in a 90 couger xr7 supercharged when young. So for me its that or fethering it off engagement, holding engagement is what I do at a stop for easy of getting back rolling. My left foot dose not know "simply let the clutch" out. To me fethering off the clutch engagement, is a slow dance with a try at finesse for smoothness off the clutch. So if Im fethering off the clutch, I will fethering on to the throttle and same gose for gear chages. Gear changes for me is pulling out as applying the clutch, then gentle push/pull into the next followed by release when I feel the click. I am the automatic with the shift kit and dont know how to remove the shift kit. If your instructor is a asphalt cowboy, bad habbits are passed down. There is no scatter shield, so need to be mindfull of what my left foot is doing.

Why would I look for the governor to save me and when would it come into play? I dont see reason to force something past its optimal range. Say the 390 in the f100 will do 5000rpm but is not happy up there, also that is where it shers pins for the distributor. Its happy in the 2500rpm to 4000rpm range, but try to stay under 3500rpm for normal driving. It dose not run the best under 2000rpm and my wideband gauge failed, so its as good as will be for now. I tryed to keep this truck on backroads when was running with the 6.9, but burned more oil doing such over full send on the interstate. That would be the only reason I could see to find the governor. Do know turbo cause destruction with low oil, so that cant be allowed.
 
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CBRF3

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Power and burnouts go hand in hand, so dont doute its been done. Since this build will have a power band to 2500, it will be a different beast but can adapt. Do know it wont be like a duramax, got a cliant with a hand full that Iv driven a few times. He has one with a dyno tune, he drives it like I drive the f100. This dose not have the saftey net of a computer to give limp mode when its not happy. Being this is all mecanical, that would put me in charge of limp mode and monitoring the vitals. Yes do know a turbo needs cool down time so dose not heat soke and crack. As you pointed out would be like running nitrous, Iv seen the holes pepole have put in gasser pistons from it. So figured best ask what to look out for and how best treat this beast. I have found driving her with the n/a 6.9, that power is there right of idle and will cause her to power slide without asking. Giving it more power will amplify that and understand will have to be carefull, she is a bit big to be having slide around. I can do it but sight is not optimal for my comfort, so its about easing through turns to minimize chance when wet. I do have a understand about power sliding, this is doing such in the f100 and will do it now with less effort since had the diff welded. On wet ground, she will get to dancing around. LOL So do know dont want a welded diff or spool in this beast, yes it will reduce the burnouts but sliding is turning with it.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media


That brings up another question, have you messed with either these? Would like her to have tracktion from a stop and not be adamant on doing a one wheel roast on wet ground, dont want to scrafice all hope of civilized steering like with a spool. The eaton is a bit high in cost and dont see me finding funds for it anytime soon, the lock right is better in cost.

lockright
truetrac

I will have all the above in a lcd gauge read out and plan to monitor fuel pressure past the filter, since what I find on this pump is that it will alter the timing.

You must be registered for see images attach
which rear dif you got I like the factory clutched trac loks they put in the sterlings myself theyre just enough lock up to get stupid but enough slip to still stear and drive almost like it wasn't there lol.

if you have a sterling 10.25 or 10.50 I have a trak lok clutched center carrier / spider assembly with matching 3.55 gears loose setting in the shop.
 
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CBRF3

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I was shown how to dump a clutch when leaning to drive in a 90 couger xr7 supercharged when young. So for me its that or fethering it off engagement, holding engagement is what I do at a stop for easy of getting back rolling. My left foot dose not know "simply let the clutch" out. To me fethering off the clutch engagement, is a slow dance with a try at finesse for smoothness off the clutch. So if Im fethering off the clutch, I will fethering on to the throttle and same gose for gear chages. Gear changes for me is pulling out as applying the clutch, then gentle push/pull into the next followed by release when I feel the click. I am the automatic with the shift kit and dont know how to remove the shift kit. If your instructor is a asphalt cowboy, bad habbits are passed down. There is no scatter shield, so need to be mindfull of what my left foot is doing.

Why would I look for the governor to save me and when would it come into play? I dont see reason to force something past its optimal range. Say the 390 in the f100 will do 5000rpm but is not happy up there, also that is where it shers pins for the distributor. Its happy in the 2500rpm to 4000rpm range, but try to stay under 3500rpm for normal driving. It dose not run the best under 2000rpm and my wideband gauge failed, so its as good as will be for now. I tryed to keep this truck on backroads when was running with the 6.9, but burned more oil doing such over full send on the interstate. That would be the only reason I could see to find the governor. Do know turbo cause destruction with low oil, so that cant be allowed.
the trick is having a low enough 1st gear to crawl you can almost dump the clutch and never touch throttle and it will take off with ease this is where the ZF5 comes in especially the big block gasser one it has a very usable 1st and reverse gear that will just crawl can literally crawl in reverse backing a trailer without having to really work the clutch pedal much as for launch if are wanting a descent hard launch 2nd gear take off wait till suspension and trans is loaded then let clutch up while following with the throttle it will launch hard without the hard hit on the driveline and if are doing a burn out you work onto the brake from the clutch slightly to get the rear tires rotating then you simply ride brake and roll into throttle then once fully rotating hard let off brake and use torque to power over and keep tires spinning till tires catch up to your speed then let out easily while also watching your RPM's and EGT's and such.
 

1mouse3

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which rear dif you got I like the factory clutched trac loks they put in the sterlings myself theyre just enough lock up to get stupid but enough slip to still stear and drive almost like it wasn't there lol.

I have the 10.25 and was thinking to get a 10.50 for rear disk.
 

CBRF3

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I have the 10.25 and was thinking to get a 10.50 for rear disk.
nice as said I have the trak lok center carrier for your dif then loose setting beside my tool box in the shop these things are pretty nice and hard to get ahold of for a descent price

these are essentially a posi locker and are very functional for everyday driving
LOL
 

1mouse3

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if are wanting a descent hard launch 2nd gear take off wait till suspension and trans is loaded then let clutch up while following with the throttle it will launch hard without the hard hit on the driveline

That dont sound hard to do and am I correct that loading is the feel of the engine and sight of the noise tweking?

nice as said I have the trak lok center carrier for your dif then loose setting beside my tool box in the shop these things are pretty nice and hard to get ahold of for a descent price

these are essentially a posi locker and are very functional for everyday driving

Nice and thanks.
 

CBRF3

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its amazing how ugly a truck can get when used as a tow pig for a few years especially a truck bed it was all pretty now its ugly as can be notice last pic is after like 1-2 years of working it trust me its really ugly now same truck from this video
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LOL
 

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CBRF3

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That dont sound hard to do and am I correct that loading is the feel of the engine and sight of the noise tweking?



Nice and thanks.
loading the suspension / driveline means slightly letting clutch out while just barely touching throttle aka 2 footing it your clutch foot is also slightly holding the brake at same time to take all slack out of the driveline / suspension before you lay into it if you get my meaning this way you don't get a snap jump hop effect when you transition over and power into it aka launch it or send it whatever you want to call it.

This is how you launch a manual at the drag stretch and to a extent a automatic its 2 footing it till you decide to power in aka launch any slack you leave in drive line under a launch is super destructive to difs and well axles / drive shafts / transmissions and such due to the slight slop in driveline causes alot of stress on parts due to the snapping effect and it literally rips things apart also if you have your suspension unloaded you get alot of wheel hop and loss of traction when you put the beans to it if you get my meaning.

Imagine trying to hold a stopped vehicle in one place with physical strength vs trying to hold a moving vehicle in place with physical strength then think of the push / pull fight put on a unloaded driveline that little bit of momentum from the slop / looseness in driveline causes a destructive chain reaction that will twist / rip apart the above mentioned parts.
 
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1mouse3

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loading the suspension / driveline means slightly letting clutch out while just barely touching throttle aka 2 footing it your clutch foot is also slightly holding the brake at same time to take all slack out of the driveline / suspension before you lay into it if you get my meaning this way you don't get a snap jump hop effect when you transition over and power into it aka launch it or send it whatever you want to call it.

Heal toe, gotch yea. Its a little hard for me to do after breaking my leg some time back, so think a line lock is needed.

line lock

This is how you launch a manual at the drag stretch and to a extent a automatic its 2 footing it till you decide to power in aka launch any slack you leave in drive line under a launch is super destructive to difs and well axles / drive shafts / transmissions and such due to the slight slop in driveline causes alot of stress on parts due to the snapping effect and it literally rips things apart also if you have your suspension unloaded you get alot of wheel hop and loss of traction when you put the beans to it if you get my meaning.

Imagine trying to hold a stopped vehicle in one place with physical strength vs trying to hold a moving vehicle in place with physical strength then think of the push / pull fight put on a unloaded driveline that little bit of momentum from the slop / looseness in driveline causes a destructive chain reaction that will twist / rip apart the above mentioned parts.


Good to know what happens not doing it, thanks. In turn the snapping effect causes motor mounts to come lossse/bend or brake springs, like in f100. Good to know Im the problem there. Past owner put a pre 64 engine in this truck, so I made adaptors out what I had on hand when I changed frames. Those keep changing shape and like to come losse.

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1mouse3

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its amazing how ugly a truck can get when used as a tow pig for a few years especially a truck bed it was all pretty now its ugly as can be notice last pic is after like 1-2 years of working it trust me its really ugly now same truck from this video

Nice square tubes stacks. Whats with the 6 way wall splitter under your hood?
 
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CBRF3

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Nice square tubes stacks. Whats with the 6 way wall splitter under your hood?
block heater and onboard battery charger and fact I can use that set of outlets in winter if am trying to work on the motor or have a issue with cold start can just add another battery charger to that hookup and quickly get batteries charged up just ease of use can use 1 extension cord for everything vs running multiples.
 

1mouse3

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block heater and onboard battery charger and fact I can use that set of outlets in winter if am trying to work on the motor or have a issue with cold start can just add another battery charger to that hookup and quickly get batteries charged up just ease of use can use 1 extension cord for everything vs running multiples.

Good ideal.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Power and burnouts go hand in hand, so dont doute its been done. Since this build will have a power band to 2500, it will be a different beast but can adapt. Do know it wont be like a duramax, got a cliant with a hand full that Iv driven a few times. He has one with a dyno tune, he drives it like I drive the f100. This dose not have the saftey net of a computer to give limp mode when its not happy. Being this is all mecanical, that would put me in charge of limp mode and monitoring the vitals. Yes do know a turbo needs cool down time so dose not heat soke and crack. As you pointed out would be like running nitrous, Iv seen the holes pepole have put in gasser pistons from it. So figured best ask what to look out for and how best treat this beast. I have found driving her with the n/a 6.9, that power is there right of idle and will cause her to power slide without asking. Giving it more power will amplify that and understand will have to be carefull, she is a bit big to be having slide around. I can do it but sight is not optimal for my comfort, so its about easing through turns to minimize chance when wet. I do have a understand about power sliding, this is doing such in the f100 and will do it now with less effort since had the diff welded. On wet ground, she will get to dancing around. LOL So do know dont want a welded diff or spool in this beast, yes it will reduce the burnouts but sliding is turning with it.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media


That brings up another question, have you messed with either these? Would like her to have tracktion from a stop and not be adamant on doing a one wheel roast on wet ground, dont want to scrafice all hope of civilized steering like with a spool. The eaton is a bit high in cost and dont see me finding funds for it anytime soon, the lock right is better in cost.

lockright
truetrac

I will have all the above in a lcd gauge read out and plan to monitor fuel pressure past the filter, since what I find on this pump is that it will alter the timing.

You must be registered for see images attach
Why limit your RPMs to 2500?

I find it so funny you guys are trying to keep the RPMs down...when it's much safer to run high boost at high RPMs. Running 20lbs at <1500rpm is how you bend rods. But say 40psi at 3000rpm would be comparatively much gentler on the same setup.
Seriously every big HP diesel built right I've seen or read about runs high RPMs not lower. The bottom end can't handle that kind of torque, so move it up the RPM scale.
 

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