"Tank" my 91 Crew Cab Dually

The old races weren't any better.



Think I could get some money selling them as "gold" bearings to some brodozer?

After Russ recommended that Hydrotex MTP-Ultra I did some digging and went out and contacted a rep. As good as that grease performed for Russ it actually isn't spec'd for disc brake wheel bearings. I don't remember specifics but there's a difference due to the heat of disc brakes. After seeing that on the data sheet I asked the rep what his recommendations were and decided I'd just go all out and get the best. I have two trucks, a fullsize car, two trailers, plus a few other projects here that will all need bearings repacked.



It's not cheap, but I'm tired of playing "where can I cut cost" and having it bite me in the rear. Wear parts are still far more expensive than this grease was.

Front has new pads and I bled about a cup of fluid from the lines. I should have bled more out, but I was getting worn out from the up and down of not having an assistant. For some weird reason they won't gravity bleed. Odd.



That's the right color for brake fluid isn't it?

I don't know about you guys, but here rust gets EVERYTHING. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and will suck water in. When I'm done bleeding brakes I like to spray out the closed bleeder with brakleen, then spray it with penetrating oil, then cover the whole mess up with grease, trying to pack a little down in the hole. It seems to do the trick as lately when I need to open a bleeder again they actually open which is REALLY nice considering they usually just snap off.



Rear diff filled with 75w-140 full synthetic.

I took a chance. There's quite a few guys running low viscosity hy-guard in their automatic transmissions with very good results. I filled the ZF5 with it and we'll see how it goes. I'm certain it will hold up just fine, but I'm curious how it shifts. It's just a smidge thicker than dex/merc ATF. Time will tell.

I bought a new MC filler cap with seal. A one gallon garden sprayer. Some line, and a couple fittings.

Going to make a pressure bleeder system.

Put a fitting in the old cap and seal. Run line from that to the garden sprayer.

At the sprayer I will either drill a hole in the bottom of the jug, put in a fitting, and run the other end of that line, to there...

Or figure out a way to use the sprayer wand, to pump the brake fluid into the line going to the master cylinder.

Either way, I figure the hand pump on the sprayer jug is going to provide plenty of pressure, to push brake fluid through all the brake lines.

I'll use that, while bleeding from each point, and just let it keep running until all the fluid is clear.

Cost me less than 30 bucks for all the parts.

Perfect! I may try that myself sometime.

chillman88 said:

Today I pulled out the old fluid actuated brake controller and wired in my Tekonsha P3.

When I was running it on my other truck, I noticed there was feedback from the hazards. I wired in a diode to prevent that issue.

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Then I rewrapped everything in a combination of split loom and harness tape.

I had concerns about the front brakes not working well with the old controller. I plan on bleeding them tomorrow so we'll see if it made any noticable difference.

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You will like your P3. Just remember if you have electric over hydraulic brakes you have to go into settings and change from electric to electric over hydraulic.

Big Bart said:

You will like your P3. Just remember if you have electric over hydraulic brakes you have to go into settings and change from electric to electric over hydraulic.

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I've used it on my other truck a little bit. It's quite a bit different for sure!

I got the junk bed pulled off the new frame I picked up in '19 from Wes.



At this rate I might have the truck ready for the 2045 rally........

Getting the box off was a big thing though, I can pick at the little things as time allows now. I have to strip it completely so I can get it painted.

Now's the BEST time for a big tank install!

IDIBRONCO said:

Now's the BEST time for a big tank install!

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It's absolutely on the list if I can swing it. Between buying the Jeep and I just got a smoking deal on a load of top soil I'm broke again

I wasn't going to turn down 15 yards of topsoil DELIVERED for $150 though!

chillman88 said:

I wasn't going to turn down 15 yards of topsoil DELIVERED for $150 though!

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No. Not for that price!

IDIBRONCO said:

No. Not for that price!

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It helps to have friends in the right places

Slowly but surely.
Nice score on the soil!

After what I found last time I changed the gear oil I was on the fence about whether or not I should replace the differential bearings. After much debate and not wanting to take things apart twice I caved and ordered a rebuild kit today.



It has Koyo bearings which are supposed to be comparable to Timken, and was a little bit cheaper than the Timken set.

I have to pull stuff apart anyway because I have to replace the pinion yoke, might as well stuff in the crush washer delete shims I got from Russ and new bearings and just be done with it. Especially having what I believe to be 240k on the original ones. Probably should replace the gears too, but these should be ok for a while.

I've been fighting a vibration somewhere in the drivetrain and if this fixes it it'll be worth every penny. If not, it's good insurance for the future.

What happened to your pinion yoke? My front one has a chunk missing that in need to weld a little stub onto so my ujoint doesn’t pop out. Eventually i need to replace it.

hacked89 said:

What happened to your pinion yoke? My front one has a chunk missing that in need to weld a little stub onto so my ujoint doesn’t pop out. Eventually i need to replace it.

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It's been a little bit loose on the u-joint as long as I've had the truck. Can't rule it out as the source of my vibration with almost 1/8" side to side slop.

That was the original problem. Now there's some play in the splines too. I'm REALLY hoping the splines on the pinion are fine and the only wear is the yoke. I have not yet removed the yoke to look. Figured I'd do it all at once.