PLZ understand your playing in a dangerous sand box with those goals and well your rolling almost loaded dice
Thanks for letting me know I grabed loaded dice but cant grab another set, need to run with what I have. Going to have to try weighing a few random high numbers in my favor. The bed has been made and cant change the parts I have, going to run with what is on the table.
I have been there and done this with HX40 / HX50 and many other turbos HX40 flow rate is a bit overkill for our motors full tilt with all the fuel we would ever want to give them safely remember a good HX35 is like 40%-60% more CFM flow than the stock turbos designed for our motors and a good stock upgrade is the T04Z turbos for the stock turbo and flows substantially more than stock and is still much lower than the single HX35 so PLZ think this thru if you expect to drive this truck vs melt the pistons before the turbo's even lights off ( aka why dual HX35's I believe is a very bad idea ) which is a big issue with our motors honestly.
I appreciate your sentiment to go a simpler route, that kit from r&d is nice and all...
From experiance the turbo on a duramax or powerstroke is hard to service and would think the same on the idi. There becomes frozzen bolts in precarious place that have you making precarious shapes to get to them. So chose the trade off to get ease of service, yes that means complexity but can live with it. Yes I am the odd ball that will say a complex e36 with a i6 is easy to service, the vanos is time consuming to service but is not hard for example. Past me had grander plans and sought to kill the 6.9, but it killed its self instead. So have one hx35 in the parts bin already, the matching one was never bought. The data I found to weigh for what is needed for this to be useable led me to get the 10cm housing, got two match billet comp wheels as well. This will be what is to be ran first, that will be the experiament to give needed variables for adjustments. Do have one 12cm housing and will only need another if am to try them.
There is a very fine line we have to balance with our motors to keep them reliable and daily driver functional general accepted safe is 250-275 ish HP and 550-575 ftlb
I have to salvage the situation and get another engine running, dose not help no cheap running engine exsist. So since have to spend money on a rebuild I should not put it at risk, so 250 will be the set limit or what 20 psi boost gives. Money dose not grow on trees, so should use it efficently and go for reliability. Thnaks for letting me know of variables Im missing, did not realise I was about to head through the swamp.
as for turbo housings 12cm should spool around the 1200rpm-1400rpm happy spot and be good till around 2200rpm-2400rpm 14cm housing will light off around the 1400rpm-1600rpm area and be good upto around 2400rpm-2600rpm our torque peaks around 1400rpm-1600rpm HP peaks around 2600rpm-2800rpm
Not sure on this since
@IDIoit was seening 8psi at 3500rpm with twin .81 turbine houseing on a tp38, so a equivalent to a hx40 with a 14cm housing. Ether way there is that which can be put on the table as a variable, unsure if is helpfull and maybe he will chime in on egts for more. Based on what you say that would put the 10cm at 1000rpm-1200rpm happy spot and be good till around 2000rpm-2200rpm. So what is to say how it will act from 2200rpm to 2500rpm and would a billet wheel open up the window of opperation some?
Edit: So in that data plot you gave for the hx35, dose this data plot closely relate to your calculations?
hx40 14cm should spool around the 2400rpm-2600 to 3400rpm-3600rpm ranage
no go on the TP38's been there. done that. peeked 8 psi at 3500 rpms. even with .81 exhaust housings.
i did buy a couple T04e's and i saw a max of 25 psi on a stock turbo calibrated pump, turned up 2-3 flats.
but the bearings/oil seals shat the bed quick.
bought another set of t04e's and sent them to a buddy and he reworked them, they have been great.
i still havnt bought a hot IP for this rig, yet.
eavily choked exhaust above 1800rpm with crazy high EGT's causing this setup to hardly be driveable
I have external wastegates with a 20 psi spring I can run, what effect would that have. If the wastegate is set bellow peak fueling, would I not be dumping the extra heat past the turbo?
Random cheap 38mm input/ 35mm output wastgates that claimed 10/20/30 psi, is what I got and dont know if right size. This one peaked my interest with its inconel seat and valve.
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What about scratching the itch of what true dual 3in with glass packs would sound like?