So what did you do with your truck today?

NeverHave-I-Ether

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I suppose it could work for some, but it did not work for me. I was active on FTE when he started that thread. I followed the advice he gave and never saw improvements. In fact I went from 16mpgs all day to 14's and no amount of tinkering or tuning improved it. Didn't gain power either.
Wish I had left a good thing alone in retrospect.
Ah, I know who you are. Still have that same truck? I want to experiment with it, however I don't want to over hype it like it was years ago.....
 

Sergey

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Using original battery cables. Cable going to starter is 3/0, cables running between the batteries and the negative cables are 2/0.
Hello,
my truck has factory original 1985 cables (to my knowledge). And their sizes are not matching what you specified (red cable between batteries is thicker than both black negative cables).

Red cable between batteries - diameter with insulation 0.566” (awg 00)
Both black cables to ground - diameter with insulation 0.516” (awg 0 ?)

Does anyone know a link to original cables datasheet or spec ?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Hello,
my truck has factory original 1985 cables (to my knowledge). And their sizes are not matching what you specified (red cable between batteries is thicker than both black negative cables).

Red cable between batteries - diameter with insulation 0.566” (awg 00)
Both black cables to ground - diameter with insulation 0.516” (awg 0 ?)

Does anyone know a link to original cables datasheet or spec ?
That's probably how they are supposed to be. The positive cable is thicker because the power from both batteries flows through it while only the power from one battery flows through each ground cable. Plus the positive cable is longer than the grounds so there's more resistance in it than is in either one of the ground cables.
 

nelstomlinson

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Fatter copper is better, Sergey. When I replace cables, I use 2/0 for all the battery cables, except 4/0 from the passenger side positive terminal to the starter. The starter draws enough amps that the voltage drop becomes noticeable, even in those fat cables.
 

nelstomlinson

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It gets into hard data eventually and you have to follow Crossbones communication patterns. What he started has lots of potential to expand on.

He's using the glowplugs as thermocouples, getting a voltage reading that correlates to average temp in the prechamber. That's clever. If you have a pyrometer, you're getting the same info, calibrated in degreesF instead of millivolts.
 

Danielle

No, it's not finished
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Got my check list (no reason at all heehee) and I have 123 days to get it done!

Lifters
Adjust parking brake
Leaf spring mount at back
Blower motor, resistor and harness
Maintenance
Find slow leak in tire
Realign (finally have an alignment machine!)
Install the mirrors Chillman brought up from Wes like 22 years ago haha

Lifters arrive this week and that's a good one to start with as while I dig deeper I can clean, repair, replace things that normally don't have attention.
 
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chillman88

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Went over and made a deal on some of my late buddy's tools with his wife. I have to run the trailer over tomorrow. Brake lights and turn signals blew out on the way home. Yay. They're working now after replacing fuses, but for how long?
 

chillman88

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Well... Went and picked up my lathe today. Got about a third of the way home and was having issues.long story short the shim on the back of one of the brake pads had slid down and was grinding on the rotor. I have no idea how it happened, it must have just gotten hot enough with the trailer behind it to soften the glue and pulled just right against the caliper. Very odd and quite a racket it made! I thought a caliper locked up.

Now I get to go get the trailer from a friends house tomorrow and get it home and unloaded before it rains on Friday.
 
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