Tricks for removing steering wheel?

MtnHaul said:

The return line seemed to flow pretty good when I was flushing the old fluid out but I probably should check that high pressure hose. If there were a clog would that cause fluid to heat up in the pump? The old fluid didn't look too bad for ~40k miles.

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Potentially it could get hot if 100% blocked (But you said it works just not correctly.) but the system cools the PS fluid before it goes back to the pump reservoir. Also most PS pumps have a pressure release valve inside so instead of fighting the fluid that is blocked from moving it would bleed off back into the reservoir. I am not sure if our trucks do have a pressure release in the pump but most PS pumps do have a pressure release system.(Never tried to open and rebuild one.).

I was leaning towards the return being clogged. (Longer for cooling and less pressure to push a blockage out of the way.) But if your high pressure hose is old the rubber part could have potentially swelled up restricting flow. If the hose is old or new potentially something broke off the pump and has clogged the line.

But it could be the column (Perhaps harder to turn from the engine compartment side.) or your front end (Perhaps when on the ground and weight bearing.) that is not allowing the steering box to move normally. Someone mentioned camber and/or caster but I believe that would only help when moving. So I would expect if you turned to full left or right in park the steering wheel would come back a half to full turn. I believe you said in another thread it is not returning.

A problem I have seen here in Minnesota is the left front cab mount being rusted enough for the cab to drop down on the steering shaft and causing binding on the steering shaft. You can tell this is the problem by looking at the gap between the door & fender. If the gap is wider at the bottom you might have a cab mount problem. I messaged some kid in Missouri about his truck on Facebook market place & told him that was his problem but he didn’t want to accept my diagnosis.

Did you disconnect the steering shaft at the rag joint or similar and then turn the wheel to test the bearings that way? That'll tell you right away what the score is and if so, I would say do the bearings yourself if you can.

MtnHaul said:

Local auto dismantler can order a used steering column for $350 or I can order an alleged rebuilt unit for $500+shipping. 350 seems like a lot for a used part of unknown quality. Opinions?

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FIRST OF ALL:
Do you KNOW for certain if you have a tilt steering column or a non-tilt (straight) steering column.
I ask that because a lot of people have a tilt column AND DON'T KNOW IT, thinking that it is a standard column. I was one of those. I could not find a lever to release and adjust the steering wheel angle and then lock it into place so I figured it was a standard column but it's NOT, It is a tilt column and the tilt release lever IS THE TURN SIGNAL LEVER. You need to push that turn signal lever rather hard toward the instrument panel to release the lock and adjust the tilt.

There are BIG differences in doing work inside the upper column, such as changing out a turn signal switch (different switch for a tilt column vs standard column) and automatic transmission shift actuator. (My truck has a C-6 and those actuators are probably the same for both columns). I LEARNED THE HARD WAY at first and I was even fabricating special tools I designed myself in attempting to get the job done. That whole job was a NIGHTMARE that lasted about 2 weeks until I realized that I do in fact have a tilt column.

What threw me way off course was a lengthy multi- part Youtube video on replacing the shift actuator.
That guy had a Tilt Column and HE DIDN'T KNOW IT. He totally believed it was a straight column, EVEN WHEN he found the springs and entire tilt column parts inside! HE STATED, "For some reason Ford put these tilt column parts in all of their steering columns even when it is NOT a tilt column.
He must have spent MONTHS making that multi-part video. Maybe 5 or 6 months, EVERYTHING ABOUT IT WAS WRONG simply because he didn't know it was a tilt column. There were probably some components that got damaged in the process.

The instructions for working on or in the upper column on a tilt column ARE VERY DIFFERENT than the instructions for a standard column. (I was thinking about that when you wrote that you had a difficult time removing the steering wheel). Eventually he removed the entire steering column and completely took it apart (every part) on a bench to rebuild it. That was basically the end of the video Finally he went to a wrecking yard and bought a complete used steering column to install in his truck.
ALL THAT for what was at that time a $12.00 pot-metal shift actuator.

The LESSON in that story is: There is a lot of bad and incorrect information and advice on the web, including a lot of poor advice within topic threads on these diesel truck forums. The only remedy I know of to counteract that is: Search, Study and Learn as much as you can about the job you plan to do before jumping in and making series of mistakes based on improper / incorrect advice that someone posted in a topic thread where you could end up making the problems worse and more complicated.

NOW I have something relevant to post in your topic and I'll do that AFTER this post

Fixnstuff said:

Finally he went to a wrecking yard and bought a complete used steering column to install in his truck.
ALL THAT for what was at that time a $12.00 pot-metal shift actuator.

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Presumably you mean the ignition switch actuator, pictured below. Yep that is a major pain to replace on tilt columns. I had to do it on my F250 in 2017. I cut off the bit to the right of the red line to make it easier to put back together and take apart again if/when it ever breaks again. I did it with standard tools though, from what I remember. But it was a major hassle to take out the broken one due to that bit on the right side of the line being "stuck" in there on the old one due to how it's assembled. The black line is where the old one snapped, if I remember correctly. The side effect of cutting off the bit to the right is you can shift it without the key turned, so it does leave your truck more vulnerable to theft and is can be safety risk if you have small children around, but no more than a manual transmission really.

Similar steering issues in my truck, since then completely fixed.
Truck was pulling to the right and steering wheel did not return to center, plus there was a loud clunk when turning all the way to the left (to the stop) when pulling out of my parking space and making a U-turn on a narrow street. Also during that maneuver the front wheels were not tracking correctly leaving black rubber marks on the pavement.
I took it to Les Schwab for an alignment inspection. I replaced everything on the punch list with Moog parts from Rock Auto Parts (older surplus not made in China). That consis3ted of all new tie rod ends and center link. THEN I got the alignment done. The issues had improved but not by much.

Long story short. I took the truck back under alignment warranty 3 times, but to a different shop location that I was familiar with and I asked for one of "the old guys" who knows about these trucks to have a look.
After about 10 seconds under the truck he came out and said "STEERING BOX IS COMPLETELY SHOT. (no adjustments would fix it). The employee who inspected it the fist time, wa a young guy, 28 y.o as I recall who entirely missed a completely shot steering gear box. So, I ordered a 'new' Motorcraft steering box and rag joint etc. and did the work. I want to show you something I found, shown in a photo further below.
I took the truck back for a realignment with the new steering box installed. IT STILL PULLED TO THE RIGHT. I took it back and asked the manager to look it over. He test drove it, then put it on a hoist/rack for inspection. Two worn caster/camber bushings needed to be replaced. He ordered them, I came back in two days AND MY TRUCK WAS FINALLY FIXED! It steered and drove like a brand new truck and I was very happy about that!

This is what I want to show to anyone reading this topic. At the upper end of the steering shaft under the hood there is a rubber boot that had split from age and use, probably years ago. Insid3e that rubber boot is a Universal Joint. Maybe only tilt columns have that U-joint, I don't recall:

That U-joint was originally packed with grease inside that rubber boot. The old grease was in very bad condition, mostly dried out and hard.
Like any U-joint connecting two shafts, it moves on two axes. Moving it back and forth on one axis it was very difficult to move and on the other axis it was very very difficult to move, and pretty much locked up (including some rust and a rough spot which I finally worked out of it).
I am thinking that this dirty and restricted U-joint could have contributed to the failure of the steering wheel to return to center.
I used dental tools and a small screwdriver to dig most of the old dried grease out and then soaked it in transmission fluid and diesel fuel for about 24 hours. Then for most of a day (about 6-8 hrs) I kept digging and brushing and washing all of the dirt and crud out of there using a coffee can with diesel and trans. fluid for solvent. I kept working the U-joint on both axes until it was freed up, clean and working well with no restriction. The diesel fuel would have worked fine as a solvent without transmission fluid but that's the mix that I had available to use.

After it was CLEAN I packed it full with Red Mobile One Synthetic Grease (I think it's wheel bearing grease) and then re-installed it in my truck. I did not replace the rubber boot although I would have tried if I could find a proper size rubber boot but I couldn't find one. These were not a replaceable part from Ford.

BTW, the steering wheel not recentering could be due to a worn out steering box.

Cubey said:

Presumably you mean the ignition switch actuator, pictured below. Yep that is a major pain to replace on tilt columns. I had to do it on my F250 in 2017. I cut off the bit to the right of the red line to make it easier to put back together and take apart again if/when it ever breaks again. I did it with standard tools though, from what I remember. But it was a major hassle to take out the broken one due to that bit on the right side of the line being "stuck" in there on the old one due to how it's assembled. The black line is where the old one snapped, if I remember correctly. The side effect of cutting off the bit to the right is you can shift it without the key turned, so it does leave your truck more vulnerable to theft and is can be safety risk if you have small children around, but no more than a manual transmission really.

You must be registered for see images attach

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Yes, 'Ignition Actuator' at Autozone (A Dorman part) and it's $11.99, pick up in store.​

If you ever have to do it again, remember this. You don't have to cut or grind anything, on a tilt or straight column. The actuator very easily slips right into place. The trick to doing that (at least on the tilt column I did) is to completely remove the ignition lock cylinder, disengaging it from the round gear sprocket inside the column. Make a mark on one tooth where the round gear teeth mesh with the straight bar that has gear teeth (mark that point on the bar too). Then freely move the bar with the gear teeth (that the round sprocket engages with) back toward you. Then there is plenty of room to place the actuator where it is supposed to be, connect it to the the long shift rod that goes to the IGN. switch. ​

Put the gears back in place, lining up the marks you made then insert the ign. key lock cylinder. There is a square hole in the center of the round sprocket gear and a square projection on the back of the lock cylinder that inserts into that square hole so the round gear is now attached to the lock cylinder. You might have to turn the gear a little bit until they line up. You'll feel the lock cylinder move into it's socket a little further and seat when the square projection on the back slides into that square hole. With the key in the lock cylinder you can turn the key through all of it's correct positions and watch the actuator move accordingly. Put everything back together and you will be done! NOTE: have a good way to keep your small parts organized so you don't lose any). I lost a drift pin and a couple of very small lock washers so I had to make a trip or two to NAPA Auto Parts.​

With a reasonably good set of instructions and remembering about removing the lock cylinder to be able to move those gears out of the way, you won't have a problem getting the actuator installed.

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I did remove the lock cylinder, kind of had to. I had to get the broken bit out first which was stuck in there. I could have put it back together correctly but I cut off the end bit so replacing it next time won't be nearly as hard. The only thing that end bit does is stops the shifter from being able to move without turning the key. It was 5 years ago now, so I don't remember every single thing about it other than it was a huge pain to get the broken part out so I made it easier to do next time.

Cubey said:

I did remove the lock cylinder, kind of had to. I had to get the broken bit out first which was stuck in there. I could have put it back together correctly but I cut off the end bit so replacing it next time won't be nearly as hard. The only thing that end bit does is stops the shifter from being able to move without turning the key. It was 5 years ago now, so I don't remember every single thing about it other than it was a huge pain to get the broken part out so I made it easier to do next time.

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One thing the actuator does is locks the shift lever in PARK. a safety feature as you've mentioned. \
I'm so tired, I can't read or comprehend much or write so I have to sign out and get some sleep.
If the transmission linkage / bushings are worn and loose the shift lever can slip down into reverse. (not a good thing when engine is running and you are not at the controls). I've had a few shifters like that.

Fixnstuff said:

One thing the actuator does is locks the shift lever in PARK. a safety feature as you've mentioned. \
I'm so tired, I can't read or comprehend much or write so I have to sign out and get some sleep.
If the transmission linkage / bushings are worn and loose the shift lever can slip down into reverse. (not a good thing when engine is running and you are not at the controls). I've had a few shifters like that.

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It only locks it to park when the key isn't turned. The column itself and a spring is what keeps the shifter itself in it's gear positions. That's why you have to pull it towards you to shift it. Unless the teeth (for lack of better term) are damaged or the spring weak in the column, it shouldn't be able to slip gears by itself. That's a worn out column, not shift linkage bushings.

Cubey said:

I cut off the bit to the right of the red line to make it easier to put back together and take apart again if/when it ever breaks again.

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I did the same thing when I replaced the one in my Blue Truck. Since I converted to a push button start, I doubt that it will ever break again.

Pulled the high pressure hose and it's clear--only 4 years old. Double checked the return line and fluid shoots out pretty fast. Steering column u-joints move freely, rag joint moves freely. Front axle steers smoothly with wheels off the ground when disconnected from steering box. I am out of ideas. Gonna' sleep on the decision to order another column. I would rather try and get away with just replacing any wear items in the column but the missed work is adding up and with no other vehicle I'm not in a good position to spend much more time on this.

I appreciate all the help and suggestions. I think y'all would make some fine farmers 'cuz you can plant the seed of doubt like nobody's business. Every time I thought I had run through all the diagnostics somebody comes up with something I hadn't thought of and of course I gotta' try it before spending more money.

Keep with it, if it was easy everyone would do it. Sorry this one is such a PITA. You will prevail!

POSSIBLE SUCCESS!!! As I dreaded ordering up a new column or undertaking the rebuild process myself, I figured I might as well dig into the column a bit further and at least see if I can find a bad bearing or something else that went bad. The upper bearing seemed fine after removing the thrust plate and spring so I decided to spray a ton of PB Blaster down the steering shaft and hope it made a difference somewhere. Well low and behold, after I reattached the steering wheel and went for a drive my steering felt normal or at least extremely close to "my normal". Of course I'm not sure that I've actually fixed anything here but at least I found something that actuallly made a difference. Gonna take the truck to work today and hope for the best.

Hopefully you found your issue.