So what did you do with your truck today?

JAKRANCH

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I'm not done yet I'll have pics on my build page when I do. Had to cut the motorized stuff off the bottom of drivers then I bolted the bench seat runners on to the actual seat. Some washer for spacers and drill some holes. Using really big washers on bottom side to spread the stress out. May weld something on haven't decided. These are super duty seats that the guy I bought it from didn't know what they were. Seems to be newish king ranch seats I think. Middle console is out of a dodge 3rd gen. All leather. Using original seat belts. I've a full super duty seat swap before. It was all mechanical so I just used lots of spacers and slapped em in. Trying to do a nicer job this time. Pics are of my other truck
 

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The_Josh_Bear

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Got my controller deleted for the glow plugs. Just need a 150 amp to go on the power cable. Came out pretty clean, original solenoid knocked the terminal out surprisingly.

Truck has still been hard starting despite new GP system, and electric fuel system. It's about 30° F. I think though, when starting in cold weather you hold the gas pedal down right? Haven't tried it yet.
Yep hold down the pedal all the way at freezing or below and just let it go once it catches. You don't want to WOT a cold engine.

How long are you holding down the manual GP's? I go a full 15 seconds around freezing. Longer near 0*. But I have at least one lazy GP.
 

Big Bart

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Some thoughts.
1) Check that all your glow plugs are good. If 2,3, or 4 glow plugs are bad you will have a harder time starting your IDI.
2) Check to see if your IP cold advance is working. If not it will be harder to start.
3) Make sure your engine timing is spot on. This too can make cold starts harder.
 

NeverHave-I-Ether

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New glow plugs, harness, and relay with new ground wires. Hold it down for about 15s, try cranking, then hold it another 5s, no crank, 5s....

Haven't held the ped down though, new to me truck I bought last summer. I can hear it wanting to catch bit it doesn't. Will let the throttle on while trying next time.
 

Big Bart

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New glow plugs, harness, and relay with new ground wires. Hold it down for about 15s, try cranking, then hold it another 5s, no crank, 5s....

Haven't held the ped down though, new to me truck I bought last summer. I can hear it wanting to catch bit it doesn't. Will let the throttle on while trying next time.
Sounds like your glow plug system is ship shape.

1) See if your IP advance is getting power. When cold turn key to on, use a test light or volt meter to see if the solenoid it’s getting +12v. If not see if the coolant temp switch is getting +12v in and passing +12v out. Then you will know how to chase down from there.
2) Check your timing, they start a lot easier when properly timed.
3) If it does not start round one, I would do a second glow plug warm for another 12-15 seconds. That is how the factory 7.3l system typically works. Second or third try it runs the glow plugs almost as long as the first time.
4) If this spring it is still hard starting, you have done the above, look for air intrusion. It also causes you to try multiple times to start.
5) Holding the pedal does help but I have not found it that necessary if everything is working.
 
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NeverHave-I-Ether

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Hol up hold up hold up.

What's the temperature sensor/switch?

Usually starts after 20min of cranking with a gas rag. I know that's a bad sign of compression, on the flip side though I get 17mpg with 4.10s on 33s, and blow by is minimal. It always starts though and then runs fine. To be fair, I never did let the throttle down while starting so need to try it. New fuel system from tank to IP. It all checks out as good. I just turned the key. Seems to crank fast, maybe not fast enough...
I do have this loose wire and sensor though on the driver side:
 

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Big Bart

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Its a little hard to tell from the pic but yes that looks like it, but it has two prongs not one so that might be broken or the wrong sensor. But it is located on the front of the engine. The concept is power when the key is on goes to one terminal on the sensor. When the sensor is less than about 115* it conducts power between the two terminals. Sending power to the IP soleniod to help cold starting and to the throttle solenoid to hold your idle up 50-100 rpm when cold.(Idles smoother and higher, helping warm up the engine faster.) Follow the wiring back from the IP solenoid and the idle solenoid and see if it ends there or if it hooks up to another sensor near that one.

Also do you have a block heater? If so use that, it will help out a lot. But it should not take 20min to start your engine. You may have multiple issues. No timing advance (Above), timing is off, and air intrusion. Unless your compression is very low (Sub 300psi on most cylinders.) I do not think that would make it a 20 minute job.
 
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TNBrett

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Based off another image I found it's the temperature gauge sending unit. Know what that is now.
I think that may actually be the temperature warning light switch. It’s threaded into the block just in front of the driver’s side head.

The temperature sender for the gauge is in the driver’s side head, right above the exhaust manifold.
 

Reggie f250

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Guessing that is a very comfy Lazy-Boy sofa recliner tied on top!

Wishing you a safe and uneventful trip
It is very comfy. Had to take it with. Unfortunately the trip got exciting in a bad way. One of my trailer tires went away. At first I didn't even know but driving in the dark revealed flying sparks. So now I need to find a wheel and tire.
 

jwsfarrier

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Finally had time to install hydroboost in my 91. I have been gathering parts and reading the tech threads for a couple of years. The process went better than expected. This is the first vacuum to hydroboost conversion I have done. I'm happy to report with the info provided on this forum it was a success. Thank you all who have taken the time to document the fixes and upgrades so that we can benefit. These hydroboost brakes are definitely an upgrade!
 
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