another ZF5 roll over thread.... with excessive roll over noise.

That is a dramatic angle on the drive shaft. Makes more sense now that you would have vibrations to the tranny.

You may want to go double cardan on the tranny end if getting a new one. I believe that means the axle would then be rotated to be in line with the drive shaft.


Might be worth a call to Tom Woods shop.

I do believe Bart is spot on. It's hard to tell exactly from the photos the actual degrees, and I'm guessing around a 23 degree driveshaft angle, but the u joint operating angles seem too far apart. Ideally, should be within 1/2 degree of each other. U joint operating angles greater than 3 degrees and or driveshaft angles greater than 12 degrees would benefit from a double cardan shaft with the axle pinion pointed toward the transmission yoke, as Bart mentioned.

Again, not sure of the exact degrees, but this looks like what you have (slope for all three measurements front to back of vehicle)

so from this video, with the lift of the truck and the shortness of the driveshaft, it appears that i need to swap to a 1345 transfer and then run a DC shaft
i know the driveshaft is at a pretty good angle.

I'll agree with the others, too much angle on the joints. Even if you get the angles to cancel each other, you'll still likely have vibration present.

So don't weld the perches just yet.

Go with a transfer case that has a flanged output, whatever flavor you decide. And then use a double cardan shaft with the slip joint in the shaft. You can get a dc shaft unit with a slip yoke on the end to work with your current transfer case, but I feel that high angles put the slip portion in so much of a bind that it no longer slips.

Once you have the transfer case and driveshaft sorted, aim the pinion at an angle that the pinion-driveshaft joint is near zero, then weld your perches.

A lot of jeep and offroad guys run into this issue. So any driveline shop should be able to set you up.

Yes....even if you get those angles to cancel, it will make that slip yoke shake, there will always be vibration at different speeds, and u joint life (and that t case output and slip yoke) will suck
.bronco 1356 will get you a flange. I dont remember the pilot od on that flange, but shouldnt be to to hard to get a 1350 cv bolted up to it.

Looks like the bronco 1356 uses a 2 inch pilot flat flange. Superduty front driveshaft should fix you up.

This is all measurements off of junk I have laying around here that I am pretty sure I remember what they came out of.........so if you go this route double check.

IDIoit said:

so from this video, with the lift of the truck and the shortness of the driveshaft, it appears that i need to swap to a 1345 transfer and then run a DC shaft
i know the driveshaft is at a pretty good angle.

Click to expand...

On Jeep YJ’s when they came out there was a lot of issues with th 3-6” lift kits. Lift the jeep and drive at 45-65mph and you ended up with severe vibration from a very short drive shafts and it’s néw steep angle. So different companies made a kit to convert the transfer case from sliding spine shaft to fixed yoke.(Slip yoke eliminator.) Then others offered a driveshaft with a double cardan joint at the transfer case end and a regular u-joint at the rear diff. They put the slip action into the middle of the drive shaft. So the drive shaft shortens and lengthens as the suspension moves up and down. VS sliding in and out of the tail shaft on the transfer case. Perhaps there is a kit for Ford transfer cases.

Big Bart said:

On Jeep YJ’s when they came out there was a lot of issues with th 3-6” lift kits. Lift the jeep and drive at 45-65mph and you ended up with severe vibration from a very short drive shafts and it’s néw steep angle. So different companies made a kit to convert the transfer case from sliding spine shaft to fixed yoke.(Slip yoke eliminator.) Then others offered a driveshaft with a double cardan joint at the transfer case end and a regular u-joint at the rear diff. They put the slip action into the middle of the drive shaft. So the drive shaft shortens and lengthens as the suspension moves up and down. VS sliding in and out of the tail shaft on the transfer case. Perhaps there is a kit for Ford transfer cases.

Click to expand...

thats why im gonna swap to a 1345, no slip yoke

IDIoit said:

thats why im gonna swap to a 1345, no slip yoke

Click to expand...

but is there a yoke that a cv will bolt to for a 1345? Seems like maybe some early eighties broncos, but they were mostly 208s

Black dawg said:

but is there a yoke that a cv will bolt to for a 1345? Seems like maybe some early eighties broncos, but they were mostly 208s

Click to expand...

thanks for droppin the in my cherrios, but youre completely right
i shall research this in the AM when i can see straight

borg warner 4407 should work and has an output flange that should accept a DC driveshaft.

my son came home lastnight.
today we scavenged and found divorced NP205 is also a 32 spline and same diameter.
ordered a new seal from a NP208 to fit the BW1345. and BAM we matched the yoke to the shaft and the yoke ius a 1330 DC
and not a 1350 DC

well snap.

then while rooting through my parts, we decided to look in my superduty...

forgot i had a NP271. so we bolted that on, and found a SD front driveshaft with the DC.

driveshaft is a few inches too long


tomorrow were going to take the output yoke off the 271, since it is a 32 spline, and see if we can put it on the rear output of a 1356.
if this works, we can use a standard length super duty front driveshaft.

couple things i learned today
a 1345 is 16.5" long from mount to the yoke. 32 spline
a 1356 is 20" from the mount to the seal of the slip yoke 31 spline
a 4407 is 20.5" from the mount to the face of the flange. 32 spline
the NP271 is 22.5" from mount to the face of the flange. 32 spline

if they only make the 4407 flange not stick out so much, it would have been perfect!

IDIoit said:

my son came home lastnight.
GOOD......Hug him ever chance you get!! We lost our #3 son last April & I'm just now kind'a getting to where I can breath a bit!!!

couple things i learned today
a 1345 is 16.5" long from mount to the yoke. 32 spline
a 1356 is 20" from the mount to the seal of the slip yoke 31 spline
a 4407 is 20.5" from the mount to the face of the flange. 32 spline
the NP271 is 22.5" from mount to the face of the flange. 32 spline

if they only make the 4407 flange not stick out so much, it would have been perfect!

Click to expand...

Back to the subject.....I'm learning too & I'm copying & pasting into my notes all ^^^ above info you just noted/posted. Like I say I put a D60 under my '90 CC Dually along with that '89 parts F250 ZF5 & BW 1356. At some point I've got to redo my front driveline....ie: CV or something

Alot of tcase yokes are interchangeable.....it is ridiculous how much of this stuff I dont remember......should have kept notes.

Seems like the superduty 1350cv needs a 2 inch pilot flat flange. The rear shaft used on some excursions is pretty handy too......1350 cv and 1410 at the other end.

welp, the NP271 yoke did not fit the 1345, diameter of the output is double the size of the 1345, so..
we put the flange back on the 271.

and we cut down a front driveshaft and made it 5" shorter...
we are just about to install it and see how it does...
not forgetting to weld the spring perches

this should cure my long battled war.

if need be, ill have another front shaft professionally built.

but i did use the lathe to cut the weld, and tack it together the TIR was .003"

cross your fingers!