Turbo oil lines once more.

Noiseydiesel

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Well, in the process of trying to get this together well enough to just stuff it in the engine bay before the wife goes in for knee replacement on Wednesday. I removed the OEM brass fitting, installed a 45 degree, added an extension and then this contraption. The silver tip goes to the turbo and the bottom fitting will be going to another oil line feeding switches, gauges, etc.
That black spacer is the adapter for the Allison trans kit.
This toy might get put together some time, just not in the next week or so.
 

Steven Sochalski

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Well, in the process of trying to get this together well enough to just stuff it in the engine bay before the wife goes in for knee replacement on Wednesday. I removed the OEM brass fitting, installed a 45 degree, added an extension and then this contraption. The silver tip goes to the turbo and the bottom fitting will be going to another oil line feeding switches, gauges, etc.
That black spacer is the adapter for the Allison trans kit.
This toy might get put together some time, just not in the next week or so.

I was going to something similar with an extension for an aftermarket oil pressure sensor. I was advised to not use brass, but rather stainless because of the vibration. I did for a while, but I was really concerned with the vibration and I kept thinking about it while driving. I didn't want to have it break and possibly kill the motor/turbo. I ended up doing away with the extended hanging fittings by using the back block oil feed for the turbo, and an oil galley plug on the driver's side block for the sensor. I kept the OEM dash sensor on the turbo as well. I used a stainless braided feed line for both.

Your fitting the way it is is basically a lever with the fulcrum point the connection to the block. Brass and especially copper are easily deformed. Time, vibration and the downward pressure of the oil line on the tip of the lever can potentially cause it to break at the threads in the block. The good thing, is that you'll know if you are watching as your pressure gauge will drop to zero. Bad thing is who knows where you'll be when it happens.
 

Noiseydiesel

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My desire/problem is that secondary oil line.
I would like to run the second oil line to the almighty oil gauge mounted on the pillar post pod, along with an idiot light and buzzer. (and a buzzer bypass switch) That buzzer somewhat akin to the low air pressure buzzer on larger trucks.
I also desire to hook the glow plug relay into an oil pressure switch so oil pressure kills the relay upon start up.
The brass fitting/vibration is somewhat puzzling as Ford originally installed a brass fitting in the back of the engine, ALTHOUGH, it was not angled.
The wife goes in for knee replacement on Wednesday and that throws this further back.
That Allen headed oil plug on the back of the block is, I believe an 1/8 inch. Fudgsicles.
Looks like I get to attempt to pull that Allen plug on the rear side of the engine.
This ought'a be fun.
That copper looking extension came from the brass section. I believe i am going to wind up with a shorter straight section with a coupling and fitting on top to attach the turbo oil line onto.
Best part is, once the engine get's installed with the trans connected, I get to install the Dana 60 front axle and get some drive lines made before it gets on the road. I suspect I will be pushing into Christmas before those tires find asphalt again.
 

snicklas

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Here is an idea…. With a question… is the oil feed to the turbo going to be some kind of flexible line?

If it going to be flexible, place a flexible line into the port in the block (I’ve seen were a grease gun hose will thread right in there, I have not tried it myself), ano place your Tee on the firewall, or somewhere else that won’t be effected by the vibrations. Connect what you like to the tee (sensor(s)) and the flex line feed to the turbo. You accomplish the same thing, and have the vibration susceptible “stuff” isolated.
 

Noiseydiesel

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Thank you!!
Gotta love it. That might work. 1/4 inch oil line from the back of the block to the turbo with a "T" in the middle and a 1/8 line going to all the **** bang accessories. That gets me straight up with a stainless fitting to clear the trans adapter on the back of the corn~binder block and might just work out just fine.
1/4 inch oil line will be biased to supply oil to the turbo first.
Such fun. It never stops.
 

Steven Sochalski

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Thank you!!
Gotta love it. That might work. 1/4 inch oil line from the back of the block to the turbo with a "T" in the middle and a 1/8 line going to all the **** bang accessories. That gets me straight up with a stainless fitting to clear the trans adapter on the back of the corn~binder block and might just work out just fine.
1/4 inch oil line will be biased to supply oil to the turbo first.
Such fun. It never stops.
I did do similar to this initially. I kept the NA oil sender on the back. I brought a stainless flexible line from the oil galley plug. I used a brass T mounted to the fender liner by the coolant overflow. I ran the aftermarket sender off this T and then another section of flexible line to the turbo feed. The block oil galley plugs are 1/8 NPT. I purchased some 1/8 NPT to -6 an adapters and used -6 an flexible lines.

If you still have the oil manifold block on the turbo, one side is 1/8 NPT and the other is 1/4 npt. Feeding the line from the oil galley port will give you 1 sensor at the T, one on the turbo oil manifold block and one in the rear by the turbo, with heat wrap. You'd get pre turbo, at turbo and post turbo pressure reading if you wanted it a little cleaner wiring-wise. Also know one of the aftermarket turbo kits had a small oil reservoir higher than the turbo on the firewall that would slowly drain through the turbo to prevent the oil from burning onto the bearing surface.
 

BrianX128

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I put a braided an line on mine from the block, that being said on my 6.9 I had a copper line into a T for years and never had an issue either.
 
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