Oil in Coolant

david85

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I checked it again today after some short trips and the coolant in the rad is clearing up. Last couple of days, it was completely black under the rad cap. Today, it's showing red again. The coolant in the expansion tank is now all black on the surface. My biggest concern right now is to make sure no more oil is entering the coolant.

Once that's confirmed, I'll proceed with flushing and change the coolant. It was due for a coolant change anyway.
 

david85

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Sad update. I've drained the expansion tank and within a week, there seems to be 1/4" of oil in there again. So it may be the cooler itself is leaking. So far there is nothing visible entering the oil.

So the next questions are:
Where can I get a good cooler bundle?
Are the dorman aftermarket coolers junk?
Should I hold out for a ford NOS cooler?
How can I identify the correct one to make sure it's genuine?

Lesson learned, I should have pressure tested before assembling it.

At least...I certainly hope its just the cooler bundle having a pinhole. I'm going to drain the tank one more time to be sure but it's not looking good at the moment.
 

Old Goat

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When I did my Oil Cooler replacement, I lucked out and found a remanufactured MotorCraft. Rock Auto had one, and Parts Geek had the other one.
But this was 3 years ago.

I have never seen another one come up. Plenty of Dorman, and most likely made and hauled down to the Loading Dock in a Ricksha.
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Goat
 

david85

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Finally, some good news.

Long story short, there was still too much corrosion inside the aluminum headers, where the oil/coolant O-ring are. A small die grinder cleaned up the aluminum oxide and then I used fine sandpaper and scotch bright to finalize the finish. I was originally too afraid to use such aggressive methods but since there was nothing left to lose...I let my Dad try (yes, his idea, and he saved the day again).

Once assembled, I submerged the assembly under water and pressurized with shop air. Previous tests had a bubble come out every 5 seconds. But by morning of the last try, it was still air tight. No sealant on the O-rings this time, but I did use it on the gaskets (which I made from scratch since I had no more spares). The new cooler bundle is in, but I guess the old one is still good, other than some corrosion at that O-ring location.

I pulled the cooler three times over the last several weeks before it finally stopped contaminating the coolant. Every time, I had to separate the oil out of the coolant all over again. Over the last week I could see the oil gradually clear up from the rad until it finally burped the last of it into the expansion tank. There's a lot more to the story but honestly I'm just glad it's over.

Now that I know the truck will live, it's time for an oil change.

Whew...
 

Big Bart

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Finally, some good news.

Long story short, there was still too much corrosion inside the aluminum headers, where the oil/coolant O-ring are. A small die grinder cleaned up the aluminum oxide and then I used fine sandpaper and scotch bright to finalize the finish. I was originally too afraid to use such aggressive methods but since there was nothing left to lose...I let my Dad try (yes, his idea, and he saved the day again).

Once assembled, I submerged the assembly under water and pressurized with shop air. Previous tests had a bubble come out every 5 seconds. But by morning of the last try, it was still air tight. No sealant on the O-rings this time, but I did use it on the gaskets (which I made from scratch since I had no more spares). The new cooler bundle is in, but I guess the old one is still good, other than some corrosion at that O-ring location.

I pulled the cooler three times over the last several weeks before it finally stopped contaminating the coolant. Every time, I had to separate the oil out of the coolant all over again. Over the last week I could see the oil gradually clear up from the rad until it finally burped the last of it into the expansion tank. There's a lot more to the story but honestly I'm just glad it's over.

Now that I know the truck will live, it's time for an oil change.

Whew...
Glad you got it fixed!

1) I too would not want to use anything too aggressive, o-rings will seal to a smooth surface not a rough one. Glad you found a good balance.
2) I do suggest o-ring lube next time.
a) It helps the o-rings slide not rub in.
b) Helps seal against a semi rough surface. Think - helps fill a mark left on header by sand on sand paper.
c) Helps prevent cutting/pinching the o-ring.
d) Should slow down any new corrosion.
e) I would imagine if sourcing new headers was not easy, one could silicone and hope for the best on round 4. But this way you did it right.

Congrats, staying committed paid off!
 

david85

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I didn't have O-ring lube, but I always used some white lithium grease. And instead of using a press to assemble the cooler, I was able to use a dewalt hand clamp similar to this one: https://www.dewalt.ca/products/hand-tools/trigger-clamps/36-large-trigger-clamp/dwht83195

A big advantage is that it limits the amount of force during the assembly.

I'm still thinking of getting a used cooler just in case. I have a lathe that's big enough to oversize the header bores and use larger O-rings. That might be a bit extreme, but finding NOS headers is all but impossible. At least, that's what I found.
 

ttman4

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Hi in the Cascades, Nearly- Redmond,Oregon

Well just found this Craigs List listing in Portland, bunch of IDI stuff, Posted 3-13-22
Been seeing folks on here having trouble finding some things.....

Parts are in working order, removed from 1991 7.3 idi with cracked head.

Starter - $35
A/C Compressor - $35
Alternator (200 AMP) - $40
Oil cooler and housing $40
Power Sterring pump - $35
Water Pump - $25
Clutch radiatior fan - $10
Oil pump & intake -$20
Intake manifold & shield ($25
Cruise control - $20
Mechanical Fuel Pump - $15
Fly wheel - $10
Tote of Misc pulleys and engine parts $20
Tote of electrical & fan belts - $20

Make offer.
 

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