So what did you do with your truck today?

Stu Bailey

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Finally got around to buying the sending unit for the front tank. It’s been inop for almost two years now I would say.
I was planning on pumping out as much fuel as I can and then just throwing the new sending unit in and keeping an eye on the FWS. I would change that and the fuel filter after running the tank dry for the first time. Y’all think I should be good with that method? I live in NJ so there is a lot of humidity but I’ve never had a Fuel in Water light come on and I’ve never really seen any water when I have drained the Racor in the past.
 

IDIoit

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today was nothing but wiring. got most of the circuits ran, but still gotta connect them.
all 2/0 battery cables are done and we got to jump the starter wire to hear it go reer reer reer.
needed to hear some progress LOL
also didnt really care for the gauge cluster the way it was, so....
i spruced it up a little with help from the ole bridgeport!
 

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Booyah45828

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I did something similar using one of those foam headlight restoration pads and some lapping compound. Looked pretty sharp, but the shine made it hard to read the gauges, so it was painted over.
 

ocnorb

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Picked up my new trailer. For some reason the lights wouldn't work. Checked all the fuses. No issues.

Trailer guy plugged in his diagnostic tool and nothing worked. Frustrating, as I just used the truck a few days ago to pull my flatbed and the brakes and lights were functioning. I called my wife and she loaded you up a bag of tools and headed my way.

I decided to pull out of the way across a bumpy gravel lot and when I did the trailer brakes lit up. I checked all three lights and they were working! Called the wife to save her a trip.

I wonder if the ground isn't suspect; need to figure out how to chase an intermittent trailer plug ground somehow.
 

1mouse3

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I wonder if the ground isn't suspect; need to figure out how to chase an intermittent trailer plug ground somehow.

I would start with undoing the ground bolt on the trailer and if one on the truck, check for corrosion or lose/danmaged ring terminal. If that is all good then I move to the truck and see how the harness is atatched, if 3-way blades I replace with butt splices where two wires are twisted together. If all that is in order, now on to inspecting the condition of the plug. If thats good so far a long object is needed between the seat and brake pedal, you are now left with shaking the harness till the lights go out. When going over the harness also check for any spots where a hole could had rubbed through and damaged a wire.
 

Big Bart

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Picked up my new trailer. For some reason the lights wouldn't work. Checked all the fuses. No issues.

Trailer guy plugged in his diagnostic tool and nothing worked. Frustrating, as I just used the truck a few days ago to pull my flatbed and the brakes and lights were functioning. I called my wife and she loaded you up a bag of tools and headed my way.

I decided to pull out of the way across a bumpy gravel lot and when I did the trailer brakes lit up. I checked all three lights and they were working! Called the wife to save her a trip.

I wonder if the ground isn't suspect; need to figure out how to chase an intermittent trailer plug ground somehow.
Sounds like you are suggesting the trailer wiring is not working. Guessing from the size of your trailer it’s 7 pin and you have electric brakes. I would just take the time to install a junction box (If they did not put one on at the factory.) and new pig tail for your trailer. Then run a new/fresh ground from the frame to the junction box. Just get it back to A+ condition. In the short term you can take a small file and a screw driver to file clean then bend back each of the 7 connectors a little bit on the trailer pig tail. That will help it make a tight connection till you replace the pig tail.

 

ocnorb

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Sounds like you are suggesting the trailer wiring is not working. Guessing from the size of your trailer it’s 7 pin and you have electric brakes. I would just take the time to install a junction box (If they did not put one on at the factory.) and new pig tail for your trailer. Then run a new/fresh ground from the frame to the junction box. Just get it back to A+ condition. In the short term you can take a small file and a screw driver to file clean then bend back each of the 7 connectors a little bit on the trailer pig tail. That will help it make a tight connection till you replace the pig tail.

Yes. It's a new trailer with 7-pin.

If it started working after I move it, then it seems the ground path on the truck may be bad?? And there new path ends up going through the ball from the trailer??

I crawled under it and wiggled all the connections, wiring from bumper to cab with zero difference. I did find that some time in the distant past someone spliced in a 6-pin camper connection near the cab.

Ahh. One more reason to pull the bed:

Remove home-made gooseneck hitch plate.
Remove home-made air bag mounts.
Remove home made camper tie-downs that are rusted up.
Install larger rear tank.
Install B&W turnover ball hitch.
Install rear locker and fix broken bolt on speed pickup.
Repair wiring harness/install new 7-pin/4-pin combo and move old 7-pin to inside bed for camper hookups.
Clean and paint rear frame.

I’m wore out just writing that all down!!
 

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