Running hot and losing 1/2 gallon of oil per tank of fuel

Hi ya'all, 1st of all, I wouldnt be so familiar with every nut and bolt on my ford if I didnt have you. I have a new problem that I probably know the answer but I need some guidance. Recently I pulled the IP and took it in for a rebuild. The shop has a good reputation in Montana and I dont think they goofed it up. After getting it otr again, I am rolling coal on throttle and every up shift ( i would rather not), I quickly repaired the hideous and only oil leak by replacing the turbo to pedestal o-rings but I am still adding 1quart of oil every 100 miles. My GPM has increased to 16.5 on the Hwy at 75 ish. My cooling temp is steady at center guage and yet the truck is putting off so much heat that I wrapped up my stick shift with a canvas tarp, and I dread driving it. . I have also recently replaced, 8 motorcraft glow plugs, air filter, starter, alternator, 2 batteries, starter solenoid, glow plug relay & 8 NEW injectors. I RUN DELO AND STANADYNE FUEL TREATMENT. COULD I be losing all of that oil thru my turbo? If so, what seal needa replacing? I welcome and appreciate everyones opinion.

Food for thought -

Treat these as different issues.

1) Rolling coal
2) Engine/tranny running hot, stick shift is getting warmer than usual
3) Burning oil at a fast rate

1) Rolling coal - Could be your pump is now set right and prior it was running weak. Could be your pump is little turned up, but your miliage went up, so guessing not. But it also could be timing related, so I would start with setting your timing.(Which could also be causing the heating up of the engine/tranny.) Unlikely if new injectors, but perhaps you have a lazy injector. Lastly if you do have a turbo oil leak, that could be what the soot is from. (Likely leaking on the intake side of turbo, getting burned and going out as soot.)

2) Engine/tranny running hot.
a) If you did not time your truck with a timing meter, you should start there. New injectors or a new pump will change your timing. That can cause the truck to run hot.
b) Do you have EGT gauge? Is your EGT elivated?

3) Buring oil
a) Have you cleaned or replaced your CDR valve recently? This is supposed to keep you from sucking oil into your intake with your crankcase gases. If not working you could be sucking oil into the engine and burning it. These engines have been known to do that and blow out the head gasket, so import to maintain that on a regular basis.
b) Sounds like you beleive your turbo has a oil leak, thus you had oil leaking at the fitting. The seals inside the turbo are likely leaking thus why you cannot see a leak. So you can take it off, confim oil in the turbo housing/fan (Intake or exhaust.), and if send out to have it rebuilt. Some other members can share where they like to go, I have a NA, but send my Yanmar boat turbo to a shop in Long Beach, CA who does it for $450.

Let us know how it goes and share some pics!

A few other pertinent things: a have misty blow-by that will come out of my dipstick? My oil filler cap literally blew off( it sounded like a baseball hitting the truck while driving, i have not done a compression test, nor attempted to set the timing, but the truck idles nice and fires right up.

Thank you big bart, i was definitely summarizing them all onto 1 problem. I will go ahead and make the appt for my timing and perhaps a compression test. I ACTUALLY fear it could be my rings!

And yes I did remove and clean with my cdr valve. It seemed to function properly. I was surprised at how clean it already was, but since I had it out, I soaked it, dried it up and installed it with plenty of gasget maker to reseal

Timing and compression test would be a good idea.

Sounds like you have a blowby problem, that is likely your oil leak/consumption too. (1 quart per tank is pretty excessive. I loose 2 quarts every 3,000 miles as a comparison.), so I would still check your turbo but don't send it for repair unless you think it is leaking oil or does not spin freely.

Reaching here, but could be the cylinder with blowby had a lazy injector. Now that it is new, flowing fast, hard, and early you are now noticing that cylinder suffer blowby even more. To your point a compression test can confirm bad rings, a leak down test can confirm if it is the piston or rings.

Also make sure you do not have an exhaust leak, that could be sending hot air past your stick shift and heating it up.

FYI your truck looks very nice and rebuilding these engines is not horribly expensive (Much less than a 6.4l), so you will have to decide if you want to run with blowby or after a compression test you want to rebuild it before you perhaps hurt it. Another option is put a used engine if from a good running donor a reputable source.

iDI till she dies said:

Hi ya'all, 1st of all, I wouldnt be so familiar with every nut and bolt on my ford if I didnt have you. I have a new problem that I probably know the answer but I need some guidance. Recently I pulled the IP and took it in for a rebuild. The shop has a good reputation in Montana and I dont think they goofed it up. After getting it otr again, I am rolling coal on throttle and every up shift ( i would rather not), I quickly repaired the hideous and only oil leak by replacing the turbo to pedestal o-rings but I am still adding 1quart of oil every 100 miles. My GPM has increased to 16.5 on the Hwy at 75 ish. My cooling temp is steady at center guage and yet the truck is putting off so much heat that I wrapped up my stick shift with a canvas tarp, and I dread driving it. . I have also recently replaced, 8 motorcraft glow plugs, air filter, starter, alternator, 2 batteries, starter solenoid, glow plug relay & 8 NEW injectors. I RUN DELO AND STANADYNE FUEL TREATMENT. COULD I be losing all of that oil thru my turbo? If so, what seal needa replacing? I welcome and appreciate everyones opinion.

Click to expand...

You talking about ghomers diesel in Missoula what part of mt are you in

Yes . I took my DB2 IP to gomers for the rebuild. I have an extra ip that i called and inquired about them rebuilding so I wasnt down during the rebuild and they recommended that I bring in the original. So, I was down for reasonable week, my pockets were turned inside out and in the end, they gave me a different pump. But hey, I trust they did a decent job. However, at the moment I am schooling myself on how to test my compression, performing a leak down and possibly dialing in on dyi timing and then I need a better understanding of exactly how the turbo works. I am pretty sure I would need a year of savings to take my truck to gomers for any of the above! Lol.

If it built up enough crankcase pressure to blow the cap off, the cdr, or tubing from it to the intake must be blocked/restricted.

Thank you for that advice black dawg! I was not sure how many different scenarios would cause that to happen!

I will pull it off after work, maybe I plugged it up with gasket maker.. Just kidding! But that would be my best case scenario.

Have a picture of your intake set up, and cdr routing to it??

Learning about your truck--start by reading the Tech Articles located at the beginning of this section. There are about 6 pages of articles listed, so you can be selective in what you read.

Timing your truck is not terribly hard, if you have the proper meter. If you take it to a shop for the timing, be sure to ask how they do it. If they "time it by ear" find another shop. Some mechanics can get pretty close just listening to the engine, but most cannot.

Pretty much all factory stock here.