88 f250 saved from savage nature

wrecked · Mar 22, 2021

Gotta say that little facet pump has made all the difference, starting wise. I did find a couple autolite GPs still hiding up there and replaced them with ac delcos and that certainly helped, but 10 seconds on the electric while running the glow plugs gets the juices flowing better than a case of beer on an empty stomach! -15 last week, no block heater and vroom! Off like a herd of turtles.

Now I'm troubleshooting a tach issue. Suddenly jumps to ~2500rpm and stays there, sometimes a couple minutes. Likely the alternator but I'm working through the circuit anyway.

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Factory remote pump panel and...

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The pump in situ.

david85 · Mar 22, 2021

wrecked said:
You guys are way ahead of me as usual... Opted to simply bypass the TSV using pushloc connectors and 3/8 plastic line I have been packing around for 20+ years. The rear tank still leaks (grrr) so it's just the front return bypassed, which makes things easier. But while rolling about under there I noticed this:

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Good thing I haven't exceeded 1500lbs -- by much... Figure on removing a section of the stretched steel on top, flattening it out with a porta-pack etc, gouging it out mightily and stick- welding it to all blazes. Then weld doublers on the top and side. The other side is fine so it must have endured some kinda shock load to do that much injury on just the left side frame rail.

Maybe the old beggar high centred on something? First time I've seen a frame crack top down...

Well, at least you don't have to drill a hole at the end of the crack since it sniffed one out all on it's own.

Farmer Rock · Mar 22, 2021

wrecked said:
Gotta say that little facet pump has made all the difference, starting wise. I did find a couple autolite GPs still hiding up there and replaced them with ac delcos and that certainly helped, but 10 seconds on the electric while running the glow plugs gets the juices flowing better than a case of beer on an empty stomach! -15 last week, no block heater and vroom! Off like a herd of turtles.

Now I'm troubleshooting a tach issue. Suddenly jumps to ~2500rpm and stays there, sometimes a couple minutes. Likely the alternator but I'm working through the circuit anyway.
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Factory remote pump panel and...

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The pump in situ.

Is that E pump backwards? The pre filter is supposed to be on the input side of the pump.
E pumps make a world of difference when priming, but it is best to not use them to mask air intrusion or drain back issues.

Rock

wrecked · May 3, 2021

Thanks for that Rock, but the filter is on the inlet side. I routed the fuel line loosely and it certainly does look arsey versy.

wrecked · May 3, 2021

Switched the gearbox and transfer case to Klondike full synthetic universal tractor juice yesterday which has really made things smooth and quiet. The truck is getting all new fluids on June 1, as well as eleventy billion new seals...

wrecked · Jul 18, 2021

What a fine machine. Last pic before a good bath and new tires.

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wrecked · Aug 3, 2021

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These General A/TX are fantastic tires on this truck. Unbelievably quiet and stable. 265/75-16s, no rubbing. Note the mirror like shine on the top of the front fender. I musta worked on that for a good minute or so. Just resting up now and admiring my hard work.

wrecked · Aug 4, 2021

I forgot to say... Put 5000kms (3k miles) on the Klondike 5w40 synthetic and put the same back in after getting a good analysis report. Fella that did the report said results looked more like a fairly young engine and thought I'd made a fat finger error listing it as just 124 thousand clicks. (~77,000 miles) Silly beggar. A rear brake cylinder leaks badly and I'm yet to get the rear fuel tank repaired (who needs it with a 205 litre drum on board?) But the truck has very much just shrugged off being left alone in the wilderness for 2 decades. Damn I love this ugly old truck.

wrecked · Aug 6, 2021

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That lens was aimed south for 20 years. I used mother's #1 polish and a grinder style buffer. The LEDs go in tomorrow.

wrecked · Aug 6, 2021

It's plastic

wrecked · Aug 6, 2021

Hey just how needed is friction modifier in the rear diff? (.355 LS) I'm switching to 75w140 synthetic and that should make it go slippety slip fairly well until the clutches go mental. I'm almost always on dirt or snow and ice anyways and tend not to pay attention to turns etc on paved roads. It wanted to go straight with the modifier. Just how much worse can it hop around without?

YJMike92 · Aug 21, 2021

If it's not releasing to turn a corner maybe the clutches are frozen from rust. My latest beater truck had a large amount of water in the rear differential and rusted things up pretty bad. Two drain and fills later it seems to be good to go. Perhaps you need to free up the clutches? Definitely add the friction modifier or get the gear oil that is made for the LSD.

wrecked · Sep 12, 2021

Nah buddy, it's all good. Put 75w140 syn alone and its fantastic. Stickier, but I like it

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.
To clarify: the clutches and bearings were excellent and the new fluid lets me sleep at night. Don't ask about seals...

Vern · Sep 18, 2021

I don't think there's any problem with having a 1.5-3 psi epump before the lift pump. Get up there much higher and the diaphram mightn't do great. I had done this without any trouble with the lift diaphram, tho the risk of polluting the oil is real. I had a good made in Canader lift pump.
The thing is it can restrict the fuel flow during high demand. Moniter with a vacuum/boost gauge BEFORE the pumps.
I eliminated the return line to the filter housing and like you fixed the filter heater problem and sheesh did fuel drainback go down. Those 6 port fuel selectors can be had at like parts for trucks made by parker or some such, too.

wrecked · Mar 31, 2022

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This old buckwagon just keeps on keepin' on. Not a single hiccup all winter, mind you I've learned not to tempt fate by claiming winter is toast until at least August -- just in time fer... yep, winter again. But the old tub gets up and scampers away every time it's asked politely. I figger on scarin it with a garden hose and a pail of soap once the glaciers fully recede. Then take it for a boot up an active logging road to restore the patina finish.

Speaking of cold starts, have any of you old coots done a bypass on the advance side of that circuit? It looks pretty straight forward to me that all a feller needs is a single throw switch in there and the advance can be turned off once she's settled down some. Looks pretty straight forward to a guy with one eye, one arm, one leg and half a mind to just jump in the lake even though it's still covered in ice.

88 f250 saved from savage nature

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Farmer Rock

just a fella' without a 10mm socket

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