Coolant leaking from...somewhere

IDIBRONCO

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I pumped it to 13PSI and watched it for about 5 minutes without it losing any noticeable pressure. Is this long enough? I'm assuming this test will test the entire engine not just the radiator for leaks right?
Yes this tests the entire cooling system since it's all still connected. Since you didn't see any pressure loss after 5 minutes, you should be good, but I prefer to wait 15-20 minutes. That may be overkill, but it makes me feel better.

considering that this seems to be such an issue maybe just starting with a fresh head gasket is a good idea? Do studs while I'm in there?
If you come to the conclusion that you do have a head gasket issue, then I do feel that new gaskets would be better in the long run. If you have any plans or even the desire to install a turbo in the future, then the studs would be a good idea at the same time that you are replacing the head gaskets. It will give you a chance to get the threads in the head bolt holes clean so that the studs will go all the way to the bottom of the holes which will give them full holding power. If you don't clean out the threads and you can't get the studs all the way to the bottoms of the holes, it could also give you issues with rocker arm clearance. The part that they sit on can touch the top of the studs and not sit down against the head fully. This could give you issues such as the valve(s) aren't opening all the way.
 

RSchanz

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Use 7# & 16# is way too much.

I don't believe the pressure rating of the cap is printed on it and I read that they ship with 16lb and was too lazy to look at my order until now and it's actually running a 13lb cap. Still assuming I should I try downsizing to the 7lb?

Yes this tests the entire cooling system since it's all still connected. Since you didn't see any pressure loss after 5 minutes, you should be good, but I prefer to wait 15-20 minutes. That may be overkill, but it makes me feel better.

Noted, maybe I will go rent the tool again this weekend.

If you come to the conclusion that you do have a head gasket issue, then I do feel that new gaskets would be better in the long run.

Meaning rather than replace maybe try breaking and retorquing the heads first? I don't have plans to install turbo down the road so maybe no studs.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Meaning rather than replace maybe try breaking and retorquing the heads first?
No. I feel that new gaskets would be better than trying to retorque the bolts. While that may or may not work, I feel that it's probably a Band Aid fix at best. I believe that if you have head gasket issues, and you run the engine with those issues for a length of time, then there is probably some minute damage dome to the gasket(s) and it won't last terribly long. It may possibly last for quite a while if it's leaking coolant externally, but if compression is getting by and going into the cooling system, then it's getting by the fire ring and probably doing some damage to it, the head, or possibly even the block, not to mention what's been happening to the gasket material.
 

RSchanz

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Totally makes sense.

After driving it this evening I popped the hood and did another search around with the UV flashlight. I forgot my phone so I couldn't take pics at the time when the leaks were more visible but just went out now and you can still see the leaks its just more faint.

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The little bit of fresh fluid was located in that circle there. Couldnt tell if it was from the valley pan or somewhere else. Newb question but that is the cover just above the circle called? not the valve cover but....

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Appears to be leaking where the valley pan seals?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Since you know what the valley pan is, I'm going to say that you're talking about the IP housing/IP gear housing. You can't be leaking coolant from the IP gear housing. There isn't any coolant underneath/inside it. It is possible that you could be leaking coolant from the valley pan. IIRC, there is some coolant ports in the heads underneath it. They are sealed off by the valley pan itself. They were plugged off on the 7.3s. It also may be that the later 6.9s had those ports plugged off, but I don't really remember those details. You may have to install a new valley pan. If it's leaking externally, then it's also possible for the coolant to start leaking into your lifter valley which would then find it's way into your oil. This does need to be fixed.
 

RSchanz

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I’m wondering what this part is?

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If you zoom on the image and look at this version you can see some coolant on the side under the bolt... seems like it would almost have to splash to get there...

Even if I were to just replace the valley pan I feel like I’m 1/3 of the way to gaining access to the head gasket and may as well just do that too, what do you think?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Even if I were to just replace the valley pan I feel like I’m 1/3 of the way to gaining access to the head gasket and may as well just do that too, what do you think?
Well that's entirely up to you. I do have to say that this would be the only easy 1/3 of replacing the head gaskets. Just so you're forewarned. Another forewarning. It's MUCH easier to replace the head gaskets while the engine's on a stand. Again, that would be your call.
 

RSchanz

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Well that's entirely up to you. I do have to say that this would be the only easy 1/3 of replacing the head gaskets. Just so you're forewarned. Another forewarning. It's MUCH easier to replace the head gaskets while the engine's on a stand. Again, that would be your call.

I won't be removing it because I don't have a great place to work on it, gravel surface and no garage. You read some things about ppl doing it with the engine in the truck but obviously it's preference and circumstance. I guess once I get around to pulling the valley pan I'll get a better idea of whats going on. I'm sure I'll be posting pictures and asking for help :Thumbs Up
 

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I hate to beat a dead horse here but I've been driving the truck more lately and finally decided that a logical way (duh) to track coolant levels would be to raise the hose in the overflow tank fairly high so it couldn't pull coolant from there. As expected, after doing so, I noticed coolant levels to drop in the radiator. Not a severe drop but nonetheless drop... my questions are:

It seems that people with head gasket issues will have coolant flowing into the overflow because of the pressure in the cooling system. Thats not my issue, could it still be head gasket? I would guess that if its overflowing in you have a bad head gasket leak where maybe mine is minor?

The valley pan clearly has a small leak in the corner near the thermostat. I couldn't find much on forums about this being common - should I just start with this? If I do the head gaskets I don't need to remove the valley pan right? I don't want to fix this and then have to remove it a month later to do the head gasket.
 

71 Highboy

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I hate to beat a dead horse here but I've been driving the truck more lately and finally decided that a logical way (duh) to track coolant levels would be to raise the hose in the overflow tank fairly high so it couldn't pull coolant from there. As expected, after doing so, I noticed coolant levels to drop in the radiator. Not a severe drop but nonetheless drop... my questions are:

It seems that people with head gasket issues will have coolant flowing into the overflow because of the pressure in the cooling system. Thats not my issue, could it still be head gasket? I would guess that if its overflowing in you have a bad head gasket leak where maybe mine is minor?

The valley pan clearly has a small leak in the corner near the thermostat. I couldn't find much on forums about this being common - should I just start with this? If I do the head gaskets I don't need to remove the valley pan right? I don't want to fix this and then have to remove it a month later to do the head gasket.

Since I'm dealing with a coolant issue I read thru this whole thread. I went thru a similar long term diagnosis I have not seen mentioned, even tho your symptoms point to a cylinder pinhole down low in the block. You will pressurize the cooling system even before warm up is complete as it worsens. Water won't typically show in oil pan. Can't find a visible leak. If SCA was not used by PO, there is a chance of this since you have apparently exhausted all possibilities.
 

RSchanz

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Since I'm dealing with a coolant issue I read thru this whole thread. I went thru a similar long term diagnosis I have not seen mentioned, even tho your symptoms point to a cylinder pinhole down low in the block. You will pressurize the cooling system even before warm up is complete as it worsens. Water won't typically show in oil pan. Can't find a visible leak. If SCA was not used by PO, there is a chance of this since you have apparently exhausted all possibilities.

Interesting, thanks for reading everything. And this would be due to cavitation? In this case, maybe not a shot engine in due time but would need serious work on the cylinder? Im assuming a compression/leak down test of each cylinder would be the test?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Remove valley pan gasket before removing heads.
Yes. This makes it MUCH easier to R&R your heads.

And this would be due to cavitation? In this case, maybe not a shot engine in due time but would need serious work on the cylinder? Im assuming a compression/leak down test of each cylinder would be the test?
Yes cavitation and a pin hole are the same thing. The fix is to have the cylinder sleeved. You will have to tear the engine down to the bare block to have this done. A compression test won't help at all. the compression only goes up when the piston travels to the top of it's stroke which is above the level of the pin hole. A leak down test may work if the piston's below the pin hole. If the hole is toward the bottom of the cylinder, then the piston won't be able to travel down far enough to get the rings below it. Then you won't know of the air you're hearing in your oil fill is from the ring gaps or a pin hole.
 

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