Crewcab Project

IDIBRONCO

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I never disassembled one. Can I just pulled the heads and not fool with the pump?
These don't have a IP. The only pump on top of the engine is the HPOP (high pressure oil pump). Yes you can remove the heads without removing the HPOP. There's an oil line going from the HPOP to each head. Just disconnect those from the heads and you're done. I believe that they are stainless steel braided lines so they're easy to spot.

Are the head bolts re-useable?
I don't claim to be a PSD expert. I've only messed with a few and those were both gens of 7.3 PSD. As far as I know, they are reusable. From what I remember, they have a torque spec, not a torque and angle spec like torque to yield bolts do. Depending on the miles on the engine/truck, it still may not be a bad idea to buy new head bolts. Maybe even studs (hey, the head rebuilding wasn't in your original budget either).
 

catbird7

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I'll take one tomorrow and attach. Really stinks, I made some good progress last few days. Front doors installed new pioneer speakers + added sound proofing and the dash is back in which identified another problem. The 2003 crewcab has three large "round" holes thru the firewall just in front of the clutch pedal while the 2000 parts truck wiring harness has three square holes. Sure wish I noticed this earlier. Cutting both pieces of firewall out and mig welding the piece with square holes back in place would have been far easier when the cab was an empty shell.
 

catbird7

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Parts truck had 128,000 miles on it. I know the original purchase \ owner which is who I bought it from. The engine was well maintained, oil changes at 5000 mile intervals and it ran perfectly prior to pulling. Really stinks this rust hole thing. Wish it could be welded shut however I'm realistic enough to know it simply isn't possible. The engine originally installed in the crew cab has no rust however has 350,000 miles. So if I use those heads as replacements, they need to be completely gone thru.
 

catbird7

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Interior partially installed. Front doors and dash mounted but not complete.
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catbird7

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Thats going to slow your progress. Post a pic of the hole.
Hole in passenger side head just above exhaust port, front of engine. I have the other engine for parts and the castings look great so I called several machine shops today for "ballpark" pricing which was $1000.00 to $1200.00.
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lotzagoodstuff

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Interior looks great.

That hole looks like classic “Midwest winter salt splash from my crummy inner fenders”, but how on God’s green earth is the Navistar sticker on the valve cover so nice? :dunno

That hole is in a pretty inconsequential place. Is there any chance you could weld that hole shut? Yep, I just wrote that. Everybody else thought it though :D

Lastly, could you drill/tap it enough to get two good threads in it and then try to seal it with some high temp liquid metal epoxy. That truck is going to be nice enough to justify replacing the heads, but I’d take a shot at fixing it “creatively” as pulling an otherwise good lower mileage cylinder head makes me sad.

No matter what you end up doing, that’s still going to be a great rig when you are done.
 

catbird7

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I'm going to spend the weekend sorting out some of the wiring issues including the firewall mod allowing it to accept three square plugs from the 2000 wiring harness vs three round on the original 2003 harness. Also bought a stainless prebent brake line kit, possibly work on that as well while constantly thinking about options for correcting the engine issue. I'm planning to keep this truck, so pulling the 2003 heads and having them rebuilt is likely where this is going. They also suggested replacing the injector cups. The 2003 engine had new injectors installed right before the electrical meltdown. Previous owner said they were +75hp injectors purchased from riff Raff. Also had a larger BD turbo added at the same time. Not sure if either was damaged.
 

Oledirtypearl86

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I had a Set heads re done and done right last summer it was $175 for both and that included new seats and guides and valves and a full machine job on a set off 400k mile heads they turned out great its not to pricey and worth it especially not knowing what is in the rest of the head if you have one like that pretty sure there is more also id be worried about cracking or throw caution to the wind. And weld it up see where the wind blows ya
 

catbird7

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Pulled one of the valve covers on the parts engine. At first glance it looks terrible, however the glow plug wires are not melted therefore it didn't get too hot. Plan is to pull these and drop off at Miller's machine shop.
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catbird7

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Wiring wiring wiring! What a pain in the ****. I've now completely swapped all of the wiring from the single cab XLT parts truck into the Lariat crewcab. Obviously some of the Lariat features are not included in the XLT package plus there was the 41" difference in harness length (for the tail light, speedo, fuel gauge, trans harness) transmissions were both manual 6 spd however the Lariat had push button 4x4 while the XLT was manual shift. I'm using the manual shift transfer case therefore I spliced in 41" pieces of wire on all 20 something wires in that harness. Hellava lot of soldering, liquid tape, heat shrink tubing, and black tape. At some point I'll need to work on the interior wiring harness because the XLT harness does not cover the power windows in the rear doors or the power bucket seats that are in the crew cab Lariat.
 

catbird7

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Replaced hard brake lines with new prebent stainless steel set. Also replaced both flexible lines up front. Reinistalled both fender liners and four new Monro shocks. Planning to pull both heads on the parts engine tomorrow. Having a complete parts truck has its benefits, during reassembly I doubled up on acoustic material everywhere I could.
 

catbird7

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Stainless brake lines.
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