Power loss?

IDIBRONCO

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65 in drive,
This at 3000 RPM is probably about right assuming that you have 4.10 gears. A 18' boat usually isn't terribly large or heavy. Have you tried to pull this in overdrive?
These aren't powerhouses when compared to today's trucks, but they can pull pretty well when everything's right under the hood. Since you have black smoke coming out of the exhaust, I think that it's probably got plenty if fuel. I would look at the timing next. As the fuel system parts get more miles on them, the internal parts start to wear. As the IP wears, the timing retards. The IP and the injectors wear at roughly the same rate, so when one is at the end of it's lifespan, the other is too. This is why they should be replaced as a set. Replacing just one or the other (I'm talking about the injectors as one set of 8) may help or it may not. Even if replacing one does make an improvement, it won't be anywhere close to the improvement of replacing both parts.
 

gnathv

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Black smoke, dirty air filter or boost leak maybe. Both would cause low power and black smoke. You need to know how much boost you have. An 18ft boat isn’t that heavy. If it was na that I’d believe. I pulled this boat and it did well. I wished I had an intercooler. IDI’s aren’t fast but they do pull.

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ih8minimumwage

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So most likely not an under fueling issue if you're getting black out the pipe, but if timing is off you'll get a gutless throttle and more of a grey cloud when punching it leading up to black.

Any chance the IP on the rebuilt engine has the timing scribe lined up directly to the housing?
 

tjsea

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I would start with having it timed dynamically to 9.5 degrees at 2000rpms and invest in some gauges. If timing is off a couple degrees it will make all the difference in how the truck runs and drives.

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Big Bart

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As mentioned check the timing, if retarded they will run hot under load. (Or even going up hills.) It will also cause starting issues, smoking issues, etc. Most folks are running between 9.5-8.5 BTDC at 2000 rpms. Lots of threads on how to read and adjust timing. (Never adjust when its running.) I would as mentioned above make sure your turbo and its associated parts are all working too.

If you do have lower axle gearing these become tug boats and not race boats. My 88 IDI non-turbo with C6 (No overdrive like yours.) does 65mph at 2,800rpm with no load. So I am not going anywhere fast. However my truck is used to pull my 8k lb boat and for Home Depot runs. So I just live with the fact I am not going to be doing more than 65 down the freeway. Or 65 up any steep hills while towing.

The upside is cheaper to buy the truck, cheaper parts, easy DIY repairs, reliability, and thus a lower cost of ownship. (Get you just rebuilt engine and tranny, but that means those are good for years now.) Once you are dialed in (Timming, IP pump, injectors, lines, cooling, turbo, etc.) you will enjoy your truck. Sometimes you just have to remember a new F250 diesel is pushing $68-75K out the door. Then maintenance will be hefty going forward. I was at Ford a couple of years ago. 4 year old F350 diesel with a leak. They pulled the cab to fix a oil leak. Service writer said the customer was in for a 5K repair. (More than I paid for my used 88') You probably rebuilt your whole engine for somewhere around that. Upside is now you can afford a bigger boat, a used jeep, or side by side! :)
 

Fredrickson

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Regarding the axle gearing and transmission... If you want to skip the crawling under the truck to figure out the rear-end and transmission,
Check out the door sticker codes instead (example shown)

RED arrow is your rear-end code.
This link deciphers all the codes:
https://www.blueovaltrucks.com/tech-articles/identify-your-ford-truck-axle-from-the-door-sticker/

BABY POOP colored arrow us the transmission code
https://www.blueovaltech.com/tech/decode.php

and the GREEN arrow is the code for front and rear springs
https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/ford-spring-code-listings

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DiecellDan

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Thank yall for all your help. Gonna get gauges installed to see whats going on. I do believe I should I understand change out the injectors and IP. Any brand preference thats solid and will to the job?
 

IDIBRONCO

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I do believe I should I understand change out the injectors and IP. Any brand preference thats solid and will to the job?
Wes at Classic Diesel designs (Thewespaul) would be the closest to you since he's outside of San Antonio. Russ (Typ4), Mel at Conestoga Diesel (Agnem), and Justin at R&D IDI Performance (not a member on here) are the rest of the guys to buy from. Since this isn't a cheap purchase, I'd look at the other possibilities for lacking in power first unless you know for sure that these need to be replaced. If you buy from one of these guys, you won't get by cheaply, but you WILL get a quality product.
 
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