So what did you do with your truck today?

Farmer Rock

just a fella' without a 10mm socket
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Today I finally finished my trailer brake system on my f250. The PO ripped the 7 pin out and left all the wires bare and live, like 1 or 2 inches from the frame. So I finally got around to removing every single wire that was added to the truck that I didn't do. I pulled out around 150 ft of wire (including plow harness) that looks like it was from a 40 year old school bus. I ran new 10ga wires from the battery, to 30 and 40 amp breakers,to the controller, then all the way to the new 7 pin connector. The 40 amp breaker is for the hot wire on the trailer plug, and the 30 amp is for the power to the controller. I also threw in a new teknosha voyager, and tomorrow we shall see how it works.
I would post a few pictures, but lately the site won't let me.

Rock
 

Laine D

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Got my *** kicked by it today. Engine is in place for the most part, only 1/4 motor mount bolts are in place at the moment, need to get it squared up.

Also, I cannot get the trans to slide in for the life of me. Anyone know a secret? I have the tcase on, using the 800lb harbor freight trans jack. I’m think I need a new jack.
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It’s a pain in the ass by yourself. I unbolted the driveshaft and spun the output shaft and that helped let it go into the splines.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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CALLED IT!!!!!

Actually, one of the two came back as bad. The second one they said came back to life, so I can't warranty that one. And because I "bought" my new set, that effectively means I have a third, useless battery and i'm out $150.

Or that's what they want, at least. They wouldn't let me talk to the manager today, but you bet i'm gonna have a talk with him in person. This isn't the first time Salinas Valley Ford has screwed me, but this absolutely will be the last time I ever give them a nickel. If they don't fix this, ya'll will see it in the name n shame soon.

Before it goes there though, am I being unreasonable? It's my understanding that you never mix-n-match batteries from different brands, CCA's, or age. If there's a warranty issue with 1 of the 2, you warranty the set. Am I right, or am I the unreasonable one here?

The old battery has a build date of 11/19, so it's only about a year old. But that set of batteries were absolutely mistreated and abused, I don't want that battery back in my rig. If one "good" battery at full charge can't at least slow crank an IDI, it DOESN'T WORK.
You're not being unreasonable at all, batteries must be replaced in pairs if they are in service as pairs. I've literally never been to a dealership in my life so I have no tips there, I heard it called a "stealership" enough to steer clear myself. So I get Costco batteries which are good quality but the best part is that Costco doesn't even test the batteries when you bring them in for a return. They just figure how many months are left on the warranty, if any, give you the pro-rated credit towards the next set and you walk out the door. It's wonderful. :D

There are many battery threads around here for other reputable options if you don't have a Costco membership.
 

1mouse3

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So I get Costco batteries which are good quality but the best part is that Costco doesn't even test the batteries when you bring them in for a return. They just figure how many months are left on the warranty, if any, give you the pro-rated credit towards the next set and you walk out the door. It's wonderful. :D

There are many battery threads around here for other reputable options if you don't have a Costco membership.


Yea the price of the interstate batterys form costco are about the same as the same as everstart from walmart, both I belive are made by johnson controls. Both seem to have good warrentys and walmart is more relaxed, not many walmarts do a good job of stocking there shelves tho. With costco you dont have to have a membership, just need to know someone who is to get there stuff.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Got my *** kicked by it today. Engine is in place for the most part, only 1/4 motor mount bolts are in place at the moment, need to get it squared up.

Also, I cannot get the trans to slide in for the life of me. Anyone know a secret? I have the tcase on, using the 800lb harbor freight trans jack. I’m think I need a new jack.
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LaineD already mentioned my #1 trick, but forgot to mention that you have to have the transmission in gear. Any gear will work. Something else that I like to do is to use long 1/2" bolts or even long pieces of 1/2" all thread with a couple of nuts welded to it. First, I put them through the bottom two holes in the bellhousing and use them as alignment dowels. Then, as the engine and transmission get closer together, I'll actually thread them into the block. As well as being easier to reach, the bottom two holes are through holes so you can thread the bolts farther through than you can the other holes. Once the bolts have been started into the threads, the two can't separate and you're on the down hill slide. Although you can use something to put a little bit of pressure on the engine by drawing the bolts tighter, never try to use them to actually pull the two together. You can cause damage that way. Wiggle the transmission and/or the engine by hand, slowly working the two together. You can use some nuts or washers on the guide bolts (as I call them) to hold the two closer together as you get them slid closer (you can just draw the all thread up tighter since you won't run out of threads). You should be able to just about get the two slid together by hand. If you just can't get them to slide the last 3/4" or so, you can try easily compressing the slave cylinder. Sometimes you don't get the clutch plate perfectly centered and the end of the input shaft will hit the center of the clutch instead of sliding through it. Compressing the slave cylinder acts just like pushing the clutch pedal while you're driving, it releases the clutch and it can slide into the right place and then you'll be able to get the engine and transmission all the way together.
 

renjaminfrankln

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Today I finally finished my trailer brake system on my f250. The PO ripped the 7 pin out and left all the wires bare and live, like 1 or 2 inches from the frame. So I finally got around to removing every single wire that was added to the truck that I didn't do. I pulled out around 150 ft of wire (including plow harness) that looks like it was from a 40 year old school bus. I ran new 10ga wires from the battery, to 30 and 40 amp breakers,to the controller, then all the way to the new 7 pin connector. The 40 amp breaker is for the hot wire on the trailer plug, and the 30 amp is for the power to the controller. I also threw in a new teknosha voyager, and tomorrow we shall see how it works.
I would post a few pictures, but lately the site won't let me.

Rock

Ha I went through basically the same thing with my truck. Cleaning up from a plow and trailer wiring. Had a giant pile of wires. Some of the work was done with wire nuts and electrical tape.
 

Farmer Rock

just a fella' without a 10mm socket
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I'm in the middle of rebuilding my good buddies girlfriends Subaru 2.5 engine. All I can say is I miss the simplicity of the IDI.
I hear ya! I got two 2.5 Subarus that need timing belts, spark plugs and possibly head gaskets. I just helped a friend tear a 2.5 out of an 01 that one of the idler pulleys threw the timing belts and bent the valves, so we took the heads off and got them redone. Nothing compares to the simplicity of the IDIs, but for an EFI gasser, those little boxer engines are pretty easy to work on.



Rock
 

Farmer Rock

just a fella' without a 10mm socket
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Ha I went through basically the same thing with my truck. Cleaning up from a plow and trailer wiring. Had a giant pile of wires. Some of the work was done with wire nuts and electrical tape.
Yeah, I can deal with a lot of things, but when I see jury rigged wiring I go through the roof! I don't understand how someone can do such a bad job at something and still sleep at night! Every single piece of equipment I own or work on, gets proper size wiring, heat shrink, conduit, and good quality crimps.



Rock
 

JAKRANCH

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Got home very early this morning with our newest addition.
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she runs good, but neither cold nor hot starts. Definitely needs batteries and I'm thinking injection pump. Shocked at how much more power that factory turbo has. I sure enjoyed running around today on it.
 

Farmer Rock

just a fella' without a 10mm socket
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Got home very early this morning with our newest addition.
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she runs good, but neither cold nor hot starts. Definitely needs batteries and I'm thinking injection pump. Shocked at how much more power that factory turbo has. I sure enjoyed running around today on it.
Wow! A factory turbo crew cab 4x4! Is it a zf5? That is a nice truck.



Rock
 

Stu Bailey

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@Laine D thanks man i turned 19 yesterday

today i saw the twin to @Stu Bailey 's truck, same colors and with Washington plates. i was talking with the guy and it is a F-150 that he bought and drove from washington to PA in and it is a 5.0 and 4 speed. not a diesel but it is still a pretty cool old ford

I love it when these classic ford trucks drive across the damn country, makes me so proud! I had bought mine aight unseen and drove it across with just new tires and batteries. Fluids and filters of course.
 
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