Wheel Seals

chillman88

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Well I decided to go one and done with this. Got the leaking side changed out. We'll see how I did tomorrow after work. If it's still leaking I'm gonna be mad lol!

New parking brake cable since the other one seized up a few months ago.

New adjuster hardware
New Shoes
New Wheel Cylinders
Reused the old springs and drum.
New studs because someone (before I bought it) was too dumb to torque the lug nuts down.

The Driver side can wait a while since it's not leaking yet.
 

renjaminfrankln

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Im about to tackle this job.

What is the torque procedure for the nut? My Ford manual says torque to 65-75 ft lbs, loosen 90 degrees, then torque to 15-20 ft lbs

Other sources say torque to 70, then back out 5 clicks
 

chillman88

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Im about to tackle this job.

What is the torque procedure for the nut? My Ford manual says torque to 65-75 ft lbs, loosen 90 degrees, then torque to 15-20 ft lbs

Other sources say torque to 70, then back out 5 clicks

Depends on what you have. I have the sterling 10.25 with the ratcheting nuts and it's closer to the second one. I don't remember exactly what it was, but if you reuse the old bearings they're supposed to be put in different than new ones. It was somewhere around 70-80 and back off 6-8 clicks if I remember correctly.
 

renjaminfrankln

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Depends on what you have. I have the sterling 10.25 with the ratcheting nuts and it's closer to the second one. I don't remember exactly what it was, but if you reuse the old bearings they're supposed to be put in different than new ones. It was somewhere around 70-80 and back off 6-8 clicks if I remember correctly.

Sterling 10.25
 

chillman88

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Sterling 10.25

This was copied from FTE and is most likely what I used:


1. A new axle nut is required if the ratchet ring has become detached from the nut.

2. Tighten the axle nut to 55#-65# while rotating hub at the same time.

3a. If reusing OLD bearings - back off nut 8 audible clicks
OR
3b. If installing NEW bearings - back off nut 5 audible clicks

For the record one side is left hand threads if I remember correctly. I don't recall which side though.
 

renjaminfrankln

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This was copied from FTE and is most likely what I used:


1. A new axle nut is required if the ratchet ring has become detached from the nut.

2. Tighten the axle nut to 55#-65# while rotating hub at the same time.

3a. If reusing OLD bearings - back off nut 8 audible clicks
OR
3b. If installing NEW bearings - back off nut 5 audible clicks

For the record one side is left hand threads if I remember correctly. I don't recall which side though.

I appreciate it

I looked up the same info earlier today and backed off 8 clicks. Driver's side is LH thread.
 

12pilgrim

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I recently had to replace the entire hub on the passenger side rear of my 86 F250 with the 10.25 rear end. I bought a replacement hub on Ebay and rebuilt it with new bearings, races and oil seal. Here's a list of part numbers and prices from Rock Auto last July when I purchased these, hope this helps:

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