What should I be looking for in a Turbo search?

John Scott

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Thank u all for the input... yes I forked out 3500 bucks and I told the ppl I got the banks from if something didn't happen soon as in me getting my order then I was going to cancel... im not on Facebook can I get a phone number or a email address website so I can contact this Russ guy directly and I will see what he has he can ship out asap... thanks to all... my background is im a 25 year master tect with ford but I was on the small truck gas side not desiel but what I love about this motor is its all mechanical so its alot easier to understand and work on for just about anyone.... again thanks everyone for the Info
 

John Scott

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Thank u idibronco I am in contact with russ and he's working on a back up plan for me... u guys are great... so glad to be apart of discussion....

Some more I fo on my rig

I have the e4od and just had it rebuild using the monster in a box kit and added a huge oil cooler...

I've got a pillar gauge pack of trans temp... egt... vacuum with boost

Temps

Trans 140 on hwy at 60 to 70
Egt... 600 under throttle but 300 to 350 cruise
Vacuum around 15 ... some may not bother with vacuum but being its a pump I want to know im going to have breaks... lol

Any thoughts... what should I be lookn for under loads pull before turbo and after turbo
 

gnathv

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With 600 EGT under throttle you probably have room for a little more fuel. What are egts when towing?
 

Booyah45828

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600 under throttle NA seems super low. Are you sure your gauge/thermocouple is reading correctly?

I cheaped out and bought a few chinese thermocouples off amazon a while back and none will cause my pyro to read over 900 degrees when it's around 1600. I tried the gauges with a good thermocouple and they read accurately, so the cheap thermocouples are at fault.
 

Haulinhorse

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Thank u idibronco I am in contact with russ and he's working on a back up plan for me... u guys are great... so glad to be apart of discussion....

Some more I fo on my rig

I have the e4od and just had it rebuild using the monster in a box kit and added a huge oil cooler...

I've got a pillar gauge pack of trans temp... egt... vacuum with boost

Temps

Trans 140 on hwy at 60 to 70
Egt... 600 under throttle but 300 to 350 cruise
Vacuum around 15 ... some may not bother with vacuum but being its a pump I want to know im going to have breaks... lol

Any thoughts... what should I be lookn for under loads pull before turbo and after turbo



Glad you made contact!!! I'm tellin ya, this forum ROCKS!!!!!
 

John Scott

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Totally agree about the forum....

New gauges from glowshift so hopefully there telln me correct info...

I have not towed with it sence the gauges were I stalled I will be doing a test run soon...

I did tow it down the highway with out the jeep on the back and she did well I was able to keep up with trafic not feeling like I was the dog... so next step is to add jeep and do the same route and see... russ has me hooked up with a couple kits if banks don't get there **** together soon... lol
 

IDIBRONCO

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I have the e4od and just had it rebuild using the monster in a box kit and added a huge oil cooler...
Good choices for every E4OD as far as I'm concerned.

Vacuum around 15 ... some may not bother with vacuum but being its a pump I want to know im going to have breaks... lol
I had a vacuum gauge fail while driving my Bronco years ago. The brakes worked just fine at a stop sign in one town. Then about 70 miles later, I had to make a bathroom pit stop in a gas station. I was only going about 45, but when I stepped on the brake pedal and it was rock hard, I still missed the driveway off of the gas station. It was a good thing that there's two driveways to that one. I barely made it into the second one while standing on the brake pedal. I think I was still going about 30 when I pulled into that one. For some dumb reason, I didn't learn from that one and it still took me another 7 or 8 years to buy a vacuum gauge. Now that I have one, I don't want to be without one. I feel that it's as essential as an oil pressure gauge or a pyrometer.

600 under throttle NA seems super low. Are you sure your gauge/thermocouple is reading correctly?

I cheaped out and bought a few chinese thermocouples off amazon a while back and none will cause my pyro to read over 900 degrees when it's around 1600. I tried the gauges with a good thermocouple and they read accurately, so the cheap thermocouples are at fault.
I did the same. Mine would read 400-500 driving down the road empty. It got to where it would read about 300 going down the road. Next it started only working whenever it felt like it and I think it's completely dead now. Since I don't know if it's the probe or the gauge itself, I now have a new Auto Meter pyro to put in my truck.
 

John Scott

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Thanks guys sounds like I'm on the right track.... after putting some thought into why a desiel don't make vacuum on its own I knew why I wanted a gauge for sure...

Thats a great story idibronco.... thanks for the share....
 

The_Josh_Bear

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The BRAKE light comes on in bright red on the dash when you lose vacuum. I'm not against a vac gauge at all but just saying there is a light at least. Besides it's almost always the long belt to the alt that goes and takes out the vac pump belt so you lose the alternator and the brakes at the same time. I've only been there about 3 times, lol. Hasn't happened since I added an idler pulley to that long alt belt. Just keeps it from vibrating itself to death on the long side.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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You must be new to factory ford gauge reliability/accuracy...... lol

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
Not one little bit, but that particular switch/light works great!

But like any other vehicle the BRAKE and BATT and ENGINE(oil pressure) lights come on with the key on engine off. So while your glow plugs cycle just check the lights to make sure they are all working and that they turn off when the engine starts. It's good stuff.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Not one little bit, but that particular switch/light works great!
Assuming that it works with low vacuum. I don't think that I've owned an IDI powered vehicle yet that had that light up from low vacuum. Ok so it's only two since the Bronco used all of the wiring and assorted switches from my first 1985 F250. It hasn't worked that way with either of my F250s would be a better way to say it. It doesn't bother me since I do have a vacuum gauge.
 
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