Heat is turning cold... then hot... then cold... etc.

The_Josh_Bear

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Thats what I was curious about too. Just Google the terms, hit images then go pop the hood and see what matches. :D
 

franklin2

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I know you said the heat was going hot and cold before the light started coming on. But that is a awfully suspicious coincidence. Most of these trucks have a vacuum switch that is activated when the vacuum gets low, and it is hooked to the brake light.
 
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Fredrickson

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@andrewbourdeaux I have the same truck, but in white..

Regarding the brake light..
We do not have hydroboost.

If you are at a full stop.. does the dash light come on after a consistent amount of time.. say, 10 seconds every time? then go off when you let off the pedal?

Is the e-brake switch by the pedal under the dash working properly? No loose contacts, fully DISengaging?

Are your rear brakes adjusted properly? (don't have excess play?)

Speaking of brakes, have you addressed the Ford Recall regarding the switch on the master cylinder affecting the ABS warning light?



If you have any questions.. reach out.
 

andrewbourdeaux

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@Fredrickson Let's see some photos of your rig! What is it's use? I posted some photos of mine on the 7.3 IDI Show Us Your Ride thread.

If I am at full stop in park, with foot off the brake pedal, the light will come on. I have noticed no consistency. It seems very irregular as for timing when it comes on, how long it stays on, and how long it stays off. My ebrake works, however it's not very strong. Could just be due to the weight of the vehicle. I have never liked using the ebrake honestly because before getting new brakes, I had the rear get stuck. I have all new brakes on this guy. New pads and rotors on the front, new drums, shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders on the rear. Four point flush and bleed was done as well. They were installed, adjusted, driven for a month, and adjusted again right before I moved to Colorado 4 months ago.

Regarding the Ford recall, no. I didn't think this thing had ABS in the first place? This ambulance was in service until 2016-17 according to it's CarFax report, so I'd assume if the recall was issued prior to then, it would have been taken care of? Let me know what you think. I will call Ford regarding this now and see if they can find anything on the VIN.


Thanks,
Andrew

UPDATE:
Found this. It appears it only records recalls after 01/01/1999. When was this recall?

You must be registered for see images attach
 
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Fredrickson

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I use mine as a poor man's RV. It has your basic set of tools for fixing an old idi, a few bags of charcoal, a grill, some camp chairs.. the bench seat in the back now folds out to about a queen size bed.

I was told to always use the emergency brake so that it doesn't seize up and the cable stays in working order. (It was stuck when I got the vehicle.)
It's not about the e-brake holding the vehicle in place (i.e. shoes to drums, there is an electrical switch up in there on the pedal that can work loose. and possibly trigger the dash light.)
Your recall may have been taken care of by the previous owner.

Do you have a trailer hitch on your truck? sometimes the brake light wiring can cause problems.

Also .. follow all the rubber hoses that go to that 'tree' connector on the top of the firewall, on the driver side, under the hood. It is about 5" long, with several rubber hoses coming off it. Check the condition of those.

RE: ABS.. I have the dash light for it.. but don't know if it is wired for it, never stomped the brakes that hard.. maybe I should.. I have all the buttons for cruise control on the steering wheel too, turns out... they're all dummy switches.

Out of curiosity.. what sort of MPG do you get?
and with 150K, are those the original injectors?
 

Scotty4

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I use mine as a poor man's RV. It has your basic set of tools for fixing an old idi, a few bags of charcoal, a grill, some camp chairs.. the bench seat in the back now folds out to about a queen size bed.

I was told to always use the emergency brake so that it doesn't seize up and the cable stays in working order. (It was stuck when I got the vehicle.)
It's not about the e-brake holding the vehicle in place (i.e. shoes to drums, there is an electrical switch up in there on the pedal that can work loose. and possibly trigger the dash light.)
Your recall may have been taken care of by the previous owner.

Do you have a trailer hitch on your truck? sometimes the brake light wiring can cause problems.

Also .. follow all the rubber hoses that go to that 'tree' connector on the top of the firewall, on the driver side, under the hood. It is about 5" long, with several rubber hoses coming off it. Check the condition of those.

RE: ABS.. I have the dash light for it.. but don't know if it is wired for it, never stomped the brakes that hard.. maybe I should.. I have all the buttons for cruise control on the steering wheel too, turns out... they're all dummy switches.

Out of curiosity.. what sort of MPG do you get?
and with 150K, are those the original injectors?
Make sure you rig for quick stop or all your items will be everywhere!
 

andrewbourdeaux

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Make sure you rig for quick stop or all your items will be everywhere!
I've had this happen before! Haha!

Do you have a trailer hitch on your truck? sometimes the brake light wiring can cause problems.
No trailer hitch on mine.

Also .. follow all the rubber hoses that go to that 'tree' connector on the top of the firewall, on the driver side, under the hood. It is about 5" long, with several rubber hoses coming off it. Check the condition of those.
I will check these and let you know their condition.

I have all the buttons for cruise control on the steering wheel too, turns out... they're all dummy switches.
This is interesting as I have On/Off and Resume/Set Accel/Coast buttons on my steering wheel and they are all fully functional for the cruise control. There is no airbag in the wheel. Pull your cover off the wheel to access the nut that holds the wheel on, as well as the wiring for the buttons. Maybe the plug inside is disconnected?

You must be registered for see images attach


what sort of MPG do you get?
and with 150K, are those the original injectors?

As for injectors... I have never changed them. Whether or not the fire department did or not, I don't know. From what I've been told by other mechanics, they seem good. I wasn't going to mess with them if I don't have to! Haha! MPG is about 14 mpg on the highway and 10 mpg in town. My total weight after build out sits right at 12,000 lbs with a fuel tank, propane and freshwater full.
 

andrewbourdeaux

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Your fuel mileage sounds pretty good to me considering your vehicle.
It's not too bad. I can get between 350-400 miles per tank depending on how much I'm in the mountains. If I'm in the mountains driving that goes down considerably. 14 and 10 is driving in and around the Denver area.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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It's not too bad. I can get between 350-400 miles per tank depending on how much I'm in the mountains. If I'm in the mountains driving that goes down considerably. 14 and 10 is driving in and around the Denver area.
Wowzers 12k all day in Denver N/A? I got fed up with my N/A pulling a trailer that left me around 12k combined, and that was here in Western Wa with less than 500ft of elevation average. Considering Denver's thin air, your mileage is definitely good.
 

andrewbourdeaux

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Wowzers 12k all day in Denver N/A? I got fed up with my N/A pulling a trailer that left me around 12k combined, and that was here in Western Wa with less than 500ft of elevation average. Considering Denver's thin air, your mileage is definitely good.
Haha don't get me wrong, if I want to drive it hard I can easily fill up every 275 miles :D I tend to take it easy on the accelerator because that gas pedal is my biggest bill right now haha! I'd rather drive a bit slower and have more in the budget for my own fuel/food!
 

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