Hard Start when cold

Dski1991

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Hey guys,

I was able to get my truck to finally crank thanks to Rocky!

I’m having trouble starting the truck after sitting over night. I’ve already replaced the batteries, ignition system, and glow plugs(motorcraft)

I do have a little fuel leak in the valley pan by the IP. I tightened all the fuel lines down that I can get to but I have a feeling it’s the IP.

It seems to leak only when I start the truck but I can’t narrow it down, it’s a slow leak.

Does anyone have any suggestions?
 

Farmer Rock

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I would assume it is probably your return lines causing air intrusion.The kits are less than $40,just be careful when replacing the lines themselves not to use worm style hose clamps because the plastic caps will crush when over tightened.



Rock
 

MtnHaul

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Be careful not to over-tighten the steel fuel lines. I'm pretty sure the torque spec is only 22ft-lbs. Most likely you need a return line kit.
 

Randy Bush

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With the leak being by the IP it could be the olive seals on the line from the filter head to the IP. They get hard over time and can leak.
 

Randy Bush

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These engine use two different sizes. The ETZ-9K260-A are for the line from filter head to IP one on ea end. The other is on the line from lift pup to IP , filter head end.
 

MtnHaul

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FWIW, if your leak is the olives in the hard line between IP and fuel filter outlet Wes at Classic Diesel Designs offers a nice replacement with AN fittings and a gauge to monitor fuel pressure.
 

Stu Bailey

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Be careful not to over-tighten the steel fuel lines. I'm pretty sure the torque spec is only 22ft-lbs. Most likely you need a return line kit.

22ft-lbs for the line nut that fits over the flare going into the injector? Only asking because I've always wondered what I should torque that thing down too...
 

captainjerry001

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Just a note about engine hard to start -- I have a 1992 F-350 with the 7.3 International diesel. Once when the engine was very hard to start, I replaced the entire fuel return system with no luck in starting. I checked everything including the olive seals on the fuel filter and on the filter outlet to the IP, and all olive seals looked OK. I finally decided the Injector pump was bad, so I replaced it with a rebuilt pump ($1500) with no luck. Then I replaced both batteries with no luck. Finally I replaced the starter, and the engine started immediately. That fixed the hard start problem. During the past five years, the hard start problem resurfaced twice and I replaced the starter two more times. Each time that fixed the the hard start problem. A diesel engine depends on the glow plugs working OK and also it depends on the engine cranking over fast enough to generate enough heat in the cylinders to fire the diesel. If the engine does not spin over fast enough due to a weak starter, the cylinder compression temperature will not be hot enough, and the engine will not start. All three times I replaced the starter, the engine would immediately start.
 

miles1400

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i would also recommend moding the filter head by replacing the fuel heater with a brass plug, the filter head is the highest point in the fuel system, therefore air will always collect there. the fuel heater may not be leaking but it is still helpfull to do
 

Dski1991

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Okay guys, thanks to the help of Rocky i was able to get things done a little faster!

I have replaced the injectors, return lines, batteries, starter, fuel pump, injection pump, and glow plugs(manual push button)

I am currently waiting for the diesel timing converter box in the mail. The truck will start when I spray, it will idle but smoke a lot. I took the truck around the block to see if moving the truck will get any remaining air bubbles out of the system, when I get to 2,000 RPM the truck will bug down( loss of power)

following day, I tried cold starting and no luck. I am currently on standby until the part comes in.
 

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