How much is enough fuel?

Suddenly

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Found the part, what are the odds I can actually source one? Looks like it’s just a twisted piece of steel might actually be able to make it myself.

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IDIBRONCO

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Judging by the location of the soot I'd be inclined to say that crossover pipe isn't sealing well.
I'd agree here. It doesn't look like the nuts (at least the one that's easy to see) are very tight. It looks like there's not a lot of threads sticking out past the nut(s), but it may just be a short stud too.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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The crossover and the driver's exhaust where it mates into the up pipe responds very well to a mean wire brush cleaning and alcohol wipe followed by copper RTV. Then tighten them all up a little at a time so they can all settle together and your pre-turbo leaks should be gone.

Since I did that I've been very impressed with my factory setup. (Mods in my signature)
 

Suddenly

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Update:bit the bullet and paid to have a shop reseal my crossover, up pipe and downpipe as well as fabricate a hanger for the downpipe. Well worth the money, like a breath of fresh air for the truck. It’s way quieter, boosts way quicker and seems to just run better.

Quickly spools to 6psi which seems to be where the wastegate is set to. 7-8psi with it unplugged. Going to try wiring it open tomorrow.

After I test with wire I will try and adjust it properly. Someone mentioned having to tap/die the threads or drill something out I forget which. Is it just 3-4 bolts holding the wastegate in place? Can I remove it easily?
 

aggiediesel01

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Maybe this information can help clarify some details about your truck. Start with the VIN Check the 8th Digit,

M in the 8th position identifies an IDI diesel from 88-94
K is factory Turbo IDI in ‘94
C is factory turbo IDI in ‘93

If you have M then you have an ATS 093 turbo that someone has put the factory ford air filter on. If you have K or C in your VIN then someone has upgraded your factory turbo exhaust scroll and outlet housing to the ATS version. ATS offered these as an upgrade for factory turbo trucks that included those parts to basically make the factory turbo the same as their 093. ATS claimed that the their exhaust housing had a tighter A/R and would spool faster than the factory version and provide more boost. The outlet housing was 3" in diameter and as you have discovered it is a slip fit into the outlet housing with no sealing required but it does leak exhaust as they get worn out and leaks more. It also looks like you have the ATS 3" exhaust. Not bad and ATS claimed it worked best for their system. Since part of the ATS system install was to turn up the pump 2-3 flats it may have already been changed some. Just keep and eye on the pyro and keep turning it up until your smile is maximized.

You also have the ATS Intercooler kit which was a pretty pricey upgrade back in the day and sadly no longer available. I think Russ bought the last of the hard parts from ATS and has since sold them as well. He may still have rubber parts like boots and such and he's the go to for seals on the turbo.

At some point in time someone forked over a couple grand to get all these parts installed.

For tightening the wastegate click on this pic and then view the next couple in the series to see what you need to do to shorten it. Leaving it unplugged will create a boost leak unless you cap off the turbo side and even then the spring may not be strong enough to keep it all the way closed at full boost. By tightening the rod you can help that.

View media item 739
 

Suddenly

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Maybe this information can help clarify some details about your truck. Start with the VIN Check the 8th Digit,

M in the 8th position identifies an IDI diesel from 88-94
K is factory Turbo IDI in ‘94
C is factory turbo IDI in ‘93

If you have M then you have an ATS 093 turbo that someone has put the factory ford air filter on. If you have K or C in your VIN then someone has upgraded your factory turbo exhaust scroll and outlet housing to the ATS version. ATS offered these as an upgrade for factory turbo trucks that included those parts to basically make the factory turbo the same as their 093. ATS claimed that the their exhaust housing had a tighter A/R and would spool faster than the factory version and provide more boost. The outlet housing was 3" in diameter and as you have discovered it is a slip fit into the outlet housing with no sealing required but it does leak exhaust as they get worn out and leaks more. It also looks like you have the ATS 3" exhaust. Not bad and ATS claimed it worked best for their system. Since part of the ATS system install was to turn up the pump 2-3 flats it may have already been changed some. Just keep and eye on the pyro and keep turning it up until your smile is maximized.

You also have the ATS Intercooler kit which was a pretty pricey upgrade back in the day and sadly no longer available. I think Russ bought the last of the hard parts from ATS and has since sold them as well. He may still have rubber parts like boots and such and he's the go to for seals on the turbo.

At some point in time someone forked over a couple grand to get all these parts installed.

For tightening the wastegate click on this pic and then view the next couple in the series to see what you need to do to shorten it. Leaving it unplugged will create a boost leak unless you cap off the turbo side and even then the spring may not be strong enough to keep it all the way closed at full boost. By tightening the rod you can help that.

View media item 739

this is some great information thank you. My vin is K.
 
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